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Pattern Reviews> Burda> 8592 (Jacket with Asymmetrical Hem)

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Reviewed by:jlg
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Member since: 3/5/03
Reviews: 204 (patterns: 184)
Skill level:Intermediate
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Posted on:1/2/05 2:22 PM
Last Updated:1/2/05 2:24 PM
Review Rating:
Helpful by 2 people    Very Helpful by 9 people   
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18 Comments      Login to Add a Comment    
Pecan said... (12/3/05 10:21 PM) Reply
Thanks again for another honest appraisal of this pattern.
slee said... (3/25/05 6:30 PM) Reply
Your jacket looks great! As to the sleeves, your problem maybe in the easing. I took a class from Connie Long, the author of the book "Tailoring a Jacket" and she showed us a step to eliminate the ease by cutting out a bias strip from wool material from your scraps(about 1.5 to 2 inches in width and probably the length of the cap from notch to notch), in your case a strip from your material you made for your jacket. Sew the bias strip while stretching slightly the wool strip onto the cap sleeve's wrong side of the fabric from notch to notch. Then sew the sleeve onto the garment with fingers pushing the back of your sewing machine's pressure foot to further decrease the ease. You'll find that both the stretch of the bias strip and the method of sewing with your fingers behind the pressure foot as you are sewing will cause the sleeve cap to shrink. Try it, it works for me.
drsue said... (1/3/05 8:49 PM) Reply
Thank you for the great review. I wonder if more pressing (though I suspect you already tried this) might make the sleeve head issue less noticible. I like the uneven hem and the short length of this jacket on you very much.
AnneM said... (1/3/05 7:14 PM) Reply
Well, it certainly isn't bad, so don't get down on yourself! I do think that some of your other outfits are more flattering on you, though. (I think I might be in the minority, based on the comments. It doesn't look bad on you - of course, nothing does - but other things look even better.)
mag said... (1/3/05 6:09 PM) Reply
It is difficult to spend alot of time on a project and be disappointed with the outcome. I can really relate. Last year I made a similar jacket, spent alot of time on it, had done a fancy buttonhole with leather, a cool button etc., but never wore the darn thing because of puckering around the princess seams. I never figured out if it was the lining pulling or what. The jacket has been sitting in my mending basket for a while, and I might have the energy to take it apart and try to fix it. Good luck with your project. It really doesn't look too bad. We tend to be perfectionists with stuff we sew, and probably wouldn't blink an eye if it were RTW.
Nancy Anne said... (1/3/05 9:09 AM) Reply
Great jacket! I'd have never noticed the unsatisfactory parts of it, had you not pointed them out. The Burda link from the company didn't come up for me (blank page), but that is Okay because your pattern infomation came up fine. Now, if I could just understand what it says! :)
MickeyFan said... (1/3/05 7:59 AM) Reply
Jlg - I love reading your reviews. This jacket looks very nice (despite your disappointment). I think the style suits you well, and you should give it another try some day. Regarding the sleeves, I have recently had similar porblems with a jacket pattern I made up twice. Then Santa brought me Power Sewing. I wish I had that book about a month ago! Betzina explains that RTW jackets have 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches ease in the sleeve while most home patterns have 1 1/2 to 2. She goes on to explain how to reduce it. Perhaps you could give that a try on the next go 'round.
Katharine in BXL said... (1/2/05 11:54 PM) Reply
Ooooh I've had my eye on this pattern for a while--you look terrific in it! It suits your style so well.
jlg said... (1/2/05 7:59 PM) Reply
Thanks so much for your words of encouragement and suggestions. Mini, I had wondered about the fabric; it does seem to look worse the more I try to fix it. I have several more jacket patterns to try. I think my goal for the new year will be to become more skilled with tailored garments.
Mini said... (1/2/05 6:27 PM) Reply
One more thought about the drag mark across the chest. Burda drafts for a B or C bra cup ,(depending on the pattern size.) For smaller women, there may be too much shaping in front. The models obviously have less curvature, and so the chests of their jackets are sagging in. It may be helpful to reduce the dart size and curvature of the princess seams for a smoother fit in front.
Modiste Madness said... (1/2/05 5:47 PM) Reply
It is always great to strive for improvement in our skills but the drag lines will not be that noticeable. Enjoy wearing it as long as it feels good to wear. We have all suffered through much worse with ready to wear and worn it anyway.
Mini said... (1/2/05 5:46 PM) Reply
I think the fit and angular design lines work well, but wool flannel may have been problematic for this sharply structured design. It has a soft texture and a tendency to stretch when handled. You might try this again in a crisp fabric like linen, menswear-type worsted wool or dupioni. The diagonal drag line may be related to a lining problem, such as the lining being firmer and tighter than the outer layer. This can be checked by releasing some of the lining stitching to see what happens. Or, just ignore it, as the catalog pictures show it too:). I made a jacket almost identical to this from an old Burda magazine, but it was unlined and had a Hong Kong seam finish. That might be worth a try too.
PegL said... (1/2/05 5:12 PM) Reply
I think your jacket is lovely! I agree with Irina, you're being too hard on yourself!
BjP said... (1/2/05 5:07 PM) Reply
Nice review, are always honest and thorough. I think you look very nice in short jackets and wish you were happier with this one.
Lorna C. Newman said... (1/2/05 4:22 PM) Reply
I loove this jacket on you! I think the lapels look nice on you. I really like the details on this one and may buy it for those "back to work" days ...
Danvillegirl said... (1/2/05 4:22 PM) Reply
I think the jacket looks great. Have not seen this pattern.
CarolynGM said... (1/2/05 4:02 PM) Reply
Jlg -- you are too hard on yourself -- the jacket looks quite good. As for the drag lines, I sometimes have similar drag lines in jackets. Could it be caused by a small bust? It almost looks like the creases would go away if a little length were removed from the lapels. Or as Gabrielle suggests, it could be a design flaw in the pattern.
gabrielle said... (1/2/05 3:30 PM) Reply
Another great review, and I'm sorry the jacket didn't turn out as you wanted. I love that hemline and the sharp corners you achieved on the lapels. The drag lines you mentioned look like they could be the result of a design problem rather than any error on your part--I looked at the jacket on line, and *all *of their versions but one have draglines. In fact, the charcoal version with the topstitching is absolutely collapsing under the lapels.
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