Pattern Description: slim fit trousers (pants if you're in the US) with hip pockets, with or without turnups
Pattern Sizing: I made a 38, my usual, but with 40 thighs (I have "full" thighs. That sounds nicer than "fat", doesn't it?)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? pretty much, maybe better.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
No!
I got totally stuck on their instructions for the pockets. Completely befuddled. I stitched, unpicked, restitched. Then had to cut out new pieces. Had a sleep on it, and made them by looking at a RTW pair.
After that, I did my own thing, and include notes here so I can print them off in future:
POCKETS
- sew linings to fronts at pocket edge, to the notch, right side to right side.
- sew piece 22 to pocket lining, with serger stitch. Trim off excess fabric.
- take off ALL the fabric around the right pocket, to make room for zip/fly
ZIP
- topstitch fly opening, 5mm from edge
- sew zip to left side opening
- pin fly closed; baste (then sew) other side of zip to right facing (leaving front piece free)
- fold underlap in half lengthwise; stitch one end; turn right side out & press; attach to left side, behind zip
- topstitch the fly, catching underlap in place
WAISTBAND
- attach interfacing to waistband pieces
- fold w.band pieces in half lengthwise; press; open out; stitch to top of trousers, right side to right side
- finish & press under the top (unattached) edge of waistband
- try on for fit; stitch centre back seam
- turn waistband inside out; stitch ends; turn out & press
- handsew waistband in place
- make inside buttonhole & sew hook & bar in place
FINISHING
- try on for length; sew hems
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? If you can find your way through Burda's terrible instructions, they're a good basic trouser
Fabric Used: A shiny shantung type fabric, furnishing I think
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I cut 7cm off the length, because I'm average height, not model-height
- I made the back darts deeper
- sewed the back seam deeper (my waist is a 36, hips 38, thighs 40)
- I sewed 13mm seams instead of 15mm, worried they'd be too tight
- I made the underlap longer: 18cm instead of 13cm, otherwise it would catch in the zip
- I removed a further 4cm from waistband
I also added an inside pocket, made from Mary Mulari's book: Made For Travel
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I have loads of pant fabrics to use up, so I will, yes.
I don't like the mean narrow little waistband though, so I'll increase the width of that.
I might change/eliminate the waistband tab too, I don't like how these always stick out.
Conclusion:
I normally wear bootcut trousers to balance my full thighs, but I've had compliments about these pants, so I'll sew some more (plus, bootcut are "out"). |
Great looking pants!
11/18/12 6:06 PM
I've been considering some slim-fit trousers, too, but have been wondering what they would look like on my figure. Yours look great! (I might just go for it, too!) Thank you for your detailed post.
11/19/12 0:28 AM
Thanks very much for your review. You've inspired me to try this pattern.
11/19/12 9:17 AM
Thank you for this informative review. I still haven't found a trouser pattern that I'm completely happy with; maybe I'll give this one a try, keeping your suggestions in mind.
11/19/12 9:23 AM
I like your pants. I have been wondering about trying to sew more of the Burda pant patterns - this one I might just try.
11/27/12 6:01 PM