Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Vogue Patterns: 1247 (Rachel Comey Top) - Type:Tops |
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Review rated Very Helpful
by 13 people
|About Twinset |
|Member since: 9/15/07 |
|Reviews written: 64|
|Favored by: 122 people|
|patterns reviewed: 59|
|Posted on:||11/18/12 2:02 PM |
|Last Updated:||11/18/12 2:08 PM|
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|See other patterns in this category: Tops Skirts |
|Available for sale on PR: $22.50 (See envelope) |
|Fabric:||Silk Charmeuse [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: The ever popular very loose fitting top by Rachel Comey, aka the 'Navigator top'.|
Pattern Sizing: 6-12; 12-18; I sewed a size 6 (I should be a 10 by Vogue's measurments).
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes
1- Close up
2- Back view
Or photo album
Were the instructions easy to follow? Very clear, good order of construction.
The instructions call for french seams everywhere; while I think this is certainly the way to go if your fabric is sheer, you don't necessarily need to do this if your fabric is not, 'cause it can add bulk or interfere with the drape. I only used french seams in 2 places (CB seam and shoulder seams), and found it made the shoulder seam stiff where the pleats meet. For the construction of the front seams I pressed the seams open and serged the edges.
The narrow shirt tail hem is very challenging (well, to me!); to minimize difficulty at side seams I hemmed front and back separately and then closed the sides (as I've seen in the shirtmaking DVD by Margaret Islander). I'd also recommend you let your top hang for 24 hrs before hemming, as the front part is on the bias.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I was first intrigued by this top after seeing some lovely versions by PR members. As it is often the case, I'd have completely skipped this pattern if it wasn't for PR! The design is great and very interesting with all the seaming and the bias treatment in the front (and cuffs). Note that this is an inverted triangle shape that might not suit every silhouette (I think it can make you look like a man with the wide shoulders and the narrow hips!). Some pointed that it looks like a medical scrub: I think it's funny but true in a way, it's just a super sophisticated version of it!
This top is deceiptively simple, and I didn't find it easy to sew - in fact I have the feeling I spent too much time on it. I found the front hem to be very challenging: if a straight bias hem is relatively easy to sew, a curved shirt tail bias hem with intersecting seams in a slippery silk charmeuse is something else. I have very low tolerance for imperfection, and I redid the front hem a couple of times before I could live with the result. Luckily my fabric is of high quality and doesn't show signs of over manipulating. While the back is ok, the front hem is not the most perfect of my sewing career. But I asked myself 'Are there RTW bias hems worst than yours?' and I answered yes so this was my way to comfort myself!
The bias cuffs were a total nightmare and I had to recut them on the straight grain (see below).
Fabric Used: Italian silk charmeuse bought from EOS (feather print)
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
1- Raised the 'V' neck by 1''
2- Sewed the neckline with a 1cm seam allowance instead of the suggested 5/8'', so that made the neckline narrower. I found the shoulder seams to be well balanced and the top doesn't ride in the back like the other Rachel Comey top (Vogue 1170).
3- Cuffs: I never could sew a decent straight line when I topstitched the cuff edge to the sleeve; for one thing my fabric was difficult to handle on the bias (silk charmeuse), and it probably had stretched a bit, so after a couple of failed attempts I was discouraged and decided to recut the cuff on the straight grain and then it was much easier to handle and topstitch. I really admire those of you who were able to sew their cuffs on the bias, but it just didn't work for me. I also slip stitched the cuffs everywhere instead of just tacking them in 2 spots.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? In the end I like this top much more than the other Rachel Comey top (1170) I made previously (which I hate by the way and wore only once). I'm still a bit uncertain about the sagginess of the front caused by the bias sections, and the weird poofing caused by the shoulder pleats, but I've come to accept that it's part of the unique charm of this top. I know I'm going to make more of this one, and I think it would be great in a fine knit like silk jersey (might try it). Make it if you like the design.
Conclusion: To Vogue: more little weird tops by Rachel Comey please!
More pics and other considerations at Jazz Couture!
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