Burda: 7519 (Woven Cowl Tunic)  - Type:Tops  | | Viewed 267 times
| 5 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 11 people | | Reviewed by: | nicegirl | 
| About nicegirl | | DC USA | | Member since: 5/10/06 | | Reviews written: 290 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 293 people | | patterns reviewed: 290 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 11/20/12 9:34 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
Burda Pattern Info | | Pattern Rating: | Great Wardrobe Builder | | See other patterns in this category: Tops | Available for sale on PR: $7.46 (See envelope)  | | | | Fabric: | sari silk [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Misses' loose-fitting cowl top can be made of woven or knit. Top or tunic length. Option of draped sleeve.
I cut between the top and tunic lengths and used the sleeve.
Pattern Sizing:
34-46. I cut a 34 at the shoulders and bust, transitioning to a 38 at the hip.
Fabric Used:
A sari border print silk purchased from Fabric Mart many years ago for $9.99/yd.
Lined with cotton batiste, $4/yd from Vogue Fabrics (they appear not to carry it anymore)
Total cost, including pattern and notions: Around $30. Expensive for me!
Time to Make:
I added a lining and took my time matching the print motifs, so this took about 7 hours.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that it's a woven pullover cowl, and I was very much drawn to the sleeves.
I am a little disappointed in how the sleeves turned out; they don't show the distinct tiers promised on the pattern envelope.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Pretty much, except for the degree of drape on the sleeves.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
These instructions were mediocre. I didn't like the construction order, and the instruction on the sleeve was inadequate. I've described how I put it together below.
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
-I took a lot of care with pattern matching for this project, and the
matches are pretty much spot on (I'm not going to pretend it's perfect, of course!). I pinned at each black line and used the walking foot to ensure even feed of the top and bottom fabric.
-Added a CB seam for swayback shaping.
-I normally hem tops at the high hip for the most flattering spot on me, but I wanted a couple longer tops to wear with my jeggings. I cut in between the shirt and tunic length on the pattern.
-I lined this top as the silk was quite sheer.
To cut the front lining, I folded down the self-facing on the pattern and traced where it ended. In cutting the fashion fabric, I added a 1/4 inch seam allowance at the top of the self-facing, and in cutting the lining I added a 1/4 seam allowance above the marked line. I stitched the two pieces together using the serger and pressed well. This creates a neat finish on the inside, and by keeping the front self-facing intact there is no chance of the lining showing at the cowl.
-I wasn't overly impressed with the construction order and method for this project, so I used my own preferred method for cowl necks.
-First, I finished the back neckline by sewing the fashion fabric and back lining right sides together at the neckline, using the serger to trim off the seam allowance, and flipping and pressing.
-Next, sandwich the back shoulder with the front and its self-facing/lining. The fold line goes at the neckline/inner edge of the back shoulder. Stitch, finish the seam allowances, and turn. The seam allowances will automatically turn toward the front. Press.
-Next I sewed the side seams, starting on the fashion fabric and continuing onto the lining.
-I treated the fashion fabric and lining as one at the armscye. This method does create a visible seam inside the garment; it is not neatly finished as a fully-lined garment would be. This can be remedied by setting the sleeve only into the fashion fabric, folding down and pressing the lining seam allowance, and then hand stitching the lining to the armscye's seam allowance. I don't go to the trouble unless it's a special garment.
-The one review
of this pattern that discusses the sleeves mentioned that they are
really restrictive. Cutting out the voluminous sleeve pattern, I didn't see how this was possible. The instructions weren't clear on how to install the sleeve. The sleevecap is longer than the armscye so at first I overlapped the finished lower edges of the sleeves. Whoa. I couldn't even pull the sleeve over my arm enough to get the shoulder to my shoulder. How that much fabric can be too tight, I don't understand, but I stopped doubting the reviewer.
I ripped out the sleeves. This time I eased the sleeve cap and abutted the finished edges of the sleeve so they met exactly at the side seam. Huge improvement. The sleeves are no longer tight and uncomfortable. However, I am a little disappointed in them. The distinct tiers of drapes pictured on the envelope don't really show up in my project, though the print could be obscuring their appearance a little.
-After carefully pressing the hem exactly at the border motif, I machine blind hemmed the fashion fabric. The blind hem stitches disappear pretty well into the border print. The lining, which hangs free below the armscye, was hemmed with a regular straight stitch.
Conclusion
This can *almost* be worn as a true tunic, but the side view is pretty atrocious so I will likely wear it belted at all times. We can wear jeans to work on Fridays. I always feel like I should wear a nicer top to go with them and this really fits the bill. I am happy both with the pattern and that I have finally sewn up this special fabric!
This is one of those things that I think doesn't look as good in the
photos as in real life. It looks more bulky than it really is--the silk
is very lightweight and the batiste lining is also light.
All photos are here and the blog post is here. | Buy this pattern for $7.46 List Price: $9.95 Add to Bag  |
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4 Comments
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Very pretty top. Perfect with your jeggings.
11/20/12 10:00 AM
This is such a flirty top-and in that fabric print it is even more fun. I love it, and would wear it in a heartbeat. I appreciate the inclusion of the side view because you are right...even in silk, it hangs outward. Have fun wearing this.
11/20/12 10:54 AM
Nice job on this one. Lovely fabric. :)
11/20/12 12:20 PM
Very nice -- great review!
11/20/12 12:56 PM