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|Bernina MyLabel: T-Shirt (T-Shirt) - Type:Tops |
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|About rutaliet |
|Member since: 8/10/08 |
|Reviews written: 33|
|Favored by: 12 people|
|patterns reviewed: 33|
|Posted on:||11/24/12 11:12 AM |
|Last Updated:||11/24/12 12:37 PM|
|Pattern Rating:||Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers |
|Fabric:||Cotton Jersey [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|I decided to take the plunge and make an Alabama Chanin inspired reverse applique sleeveless top - my first foray into making a garment completely by hand. Since this would require a significant commitment of time and effort, I wanted to be sure that the finished garment would fit well. Although there is a T-shirt pattern included in the Alabama Studio Sewing + Design book, I was not willing to risk the fit. So instead, I decided to use the T-shirt pattern from the now discontinued MyLabel software. I knew that the fit would be perfect, particularly the most important components (shoulder slope and width). Therefore, I could focus on the applique and other techniques that were completely new to me.|
WORN, with matching bolero
FABRIC: This is a 100% natural color cotton jersey that I found in the sale room at Vogue Fabrics.
CHANGES MADE IN THE SOFTWARE:
- Reduced the ease in the waist
- Added ease to the hip
- Added to the length so that the finished length (no hem - raw edge is finished edge) was at crotch level (verified this with a simulation in the software)
- Put in a shaped back seam to accomodate my sway back. I used the tank top pattern from the Alabama Chanin book as a guide for the back seam shape.
- Cut the seam allowances off of the armholes
I used the instructions from the Alabama Chanin book. Basically, you cut out two full sets of the pattern and lay each piece on top of its duplicate. I did cheat and used my sewing machine to machine baste all around the edge of each double piece.
All of the embellishment was done before any assembly of the pieces.
I used a purchased stencil that I randomly placed on the garment and traced with a disappearing marker (this was my least favorite part of the process). Then, I backstitched each shape using embroidery floss and finally cut just the top fabric layer to create the reverse applique.
The garment was stitched together by hand using button and carpet thread and each seam was opened and top stitched on either side of the seam. The neck and armholes are bound using the cretan stitch.
Boy, a thimble was a must for this project !
My rough calculation was that it took me 80 hours to make the T-shirt: I timed making one of the roses from tracing to cutting and that turned out be 3 hours. There were 20 roses so that would be 60 hours. I figure 20 more hours for everything else. Though that sounds like a lot it is not really that bad and most of it was done while sitting on the sofa watching TV - a good multi-tasking opportunity.
SUMMARY: It was really great to know that the base pattern would fit perfectly. I am happy to have the MyLabel software as a source of good well-fitting base patterns for these types of projects. Making a garment totally by hand was a very satisfying experience. The finished garment makes me feel like a million bucks when I am wearing it. Can't wait to make more.
I am hooked on these techniques.
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