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Bernina MyLabel: T-Shirt (T-Shirt) thumbsup - Type:Tops    printable version
Viewed 374 times 4 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 1 people    Very Helpful by 10 people   
Reviewed by:rutaliet
photo
Friend of PR
About rutalietstar
IL USA
Member since: 8/10/08
Reviews written: 33
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 12 people
patterns reviewed: 33
Bio: more...
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Posted on:11/24/12 11:12 AM
Last Updated:11/24/12 12:37 PM
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Rating:Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Cotton Jersey  [See other projects in this fabric]
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I decided to take the plunge and make an Alabama Chanin inspired reverse applique sleeveless top - my first foray into making a garment completely by hand. Since this would require a significant commitment of time and effort, I wanted to be sure that the finished garment would fit well. Although there is a T-shirt pattern included in the Alabama Studio Sewing + Design book, I was not willing to risk the fit. So instead, I decided to use the T-shirt pattern from the now discontinued MyLabel software. I knew that the fit would be perfect, particularly the most important components (shoulder slope and width). Therefore, I could focus on the applique and other techniques that were completely new to me.

FINISHED
DETAIL
WORN, with matching bolero

FABRIC: This is a 100% natural color cotton jersey that I found in the sale room at Vogue Fabrics.

CHANGES MADE IN THE SOFTWARE:

  1. Reduced the ease in the waist

  2. Added ease to the hip

  3. Added to the length so that the finished length (no hem - raw edge is finished edge) was at crotch level (verified this with a simulation in the software)



MANUAL CHANGES:

  1. Put in a shaped back seam to accomodate my sway back. I used the tank top pattern from the Alabama Chanin book as a guide for the back seam shape.

  2. Cut the seam allowances off of the armholes



INSTRUCTIONS:
I used the instructions from the Alabama Chanin book. Basically, you cut out two full sets of the pattern and lay each piece on top of its duplicate. I did cheat and used my sewing machine to machine baste all around the edge of each double piece.
IN PROCESS
All of the embellishment was done before any assembly of the pieces.
I used a purchased stencil that I randomly placed on the garment and traced with a disappearing marker (this was my least favorite part of the process). Then, I backstitched each shape using embroidery floss and finally cut just the top fabric layer to create the reverse applique.
The garment was stitched together by hand using button and carpet thread and each seam was opened and top stitched on either side of the seam. The neck and armholes are bound using the cretan stitch.

Boy, a thimble was a must for this project !

My rough calculation was that it took me 80 hours to make the T-shirt: I timed making one of the roses from tracing to cutting and that turned out be 3 hours. There were 20 roses so that would be 60 hours. I figure 20 more hours for everything else. Though that sounds like a lot it is not really that bad and most of it was done while sitting on the sofa watching TV - a good multi-tasking opportunity.

SUMMARY: It was really great to know that the base pattern would fit perfectly. I am happy to have the MyLabel software as a source of good well-fitting base patterns for these types of projects. Making a garment totally by hand was a very satisfying experience. The finished garment makes me feel like a million bucks when I am wearing it. Can't wait to make more.

I am hooked on these techniques.
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34 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
61sew4fun said...
Beautiful! I love tone on tone, white work, candle-wicking, this is so elegant. Thanks for sharing.
11/24/12 11:24 AM
RadarRadiance said...
It is just beautiful and so elegant. What a marvel to look at all the work you put into it and the results are astonishing!!! Yes...thanks for sharing!
11/24/12 12:00 PM
Restart06 said...
Wow, I love it!! I just ordered some stuff from Alabama Chanin as this is next on my list to start! Thanks for the review. It inspires me to get started!!
11/24/12 12:06 PM
Liz in Cville said...
That. Is. So. Beautiful. I am tempted to do something similar now, though only if I can stitch by machine. Will have to experiment. One question: why don't the edges of the motifs curl, as jersey likes to do? Is the stitching close enough to prevent it? Again, SUCH a beautiful top. Congrats, and enjoy :)
11/24/12 12:35 PM
Quickie said...
I am breathless. It's beautiful
11/24/12 12:47 PM
mnitts said...
That is beautiful work.
11/24/12 1:10 PM
RLL said...
That is incredible! I can understand why you feel like a million bucks wearing it.
11/24/12 1:40 PM
sewpelican said...
Beautiful, tone on tone reverse applique is a great statement. Wonderful achievement, so satisfying for you. Your stitching is is so perfect.
11/24/12 2:07 PM
CSY said...
WOW!
11/24/12 2:21 PM
Elona said...
This is true Wearable Art! Just gorgeous!
11/24/12 3:11 PM
n45 said...
Beautiful! I've used the Alabama Chanin Tee and it fits very well for a B/small C. Bigger than that and you probably need FBA. This is beautiful work you've done, and yes the hand sewing is very relaxing.
11/24/12 3:34 PM
jlg said...
I love this top.
11/24/12 5:01 PM
RMJ said...
I didn't understand the attraction of the Alabama Chanin techniques until I saw this - beautiful!
11/24/12 6:03 PM
PattyE said...
Just stunning!
11/24/12 6:05 PM
meggipeg said...
Oh my gosh, I am sitting here in disbelief. Your top is beautiful. Please don't wear it while eating bolognaise or drinking red wine, OK??!!!
11/24/12 6:57 PM
QueenZ said...
A work of love, a work of art, this is truly fabulous!
11/24/12 7:38 PM
kathi s said...
Wow! Really lovely-
11/24/12 11:07 PM
kathi s said...
Wow! Really lovely-
11/24/12 11:07 PM
Michele W said...
Just awe inspiring! You did a fantastic job on it. Thanks for the great detail pics.
11/25/12 0:08 AM
Michele W said...
Just awe inspiring! You did a fantastic job on it. Thanks for the great detail pics.
11/25/12 0:08 AM
Christas said...
Oh, my! This is SOOOOO very lovely! What a very beautiful creation!
11/25/12 0:35 AM
yummymummy38 said...
Creative, elegant and timeless.
11/25/12 1:43 AM
ghijsmom said...
Wow! That is really something. I applaud your lovely stitches!
11/25/12 1:59 AM
Mary Gillette said...
Ditto from me. It's stunning!
11/25/12 4:06 AM
GoodbyeValntino said...
I've often wondered about the Alabama Chanin patterns and techniques. Your top is just beautiful - a true heirloom :)
11/25/12 7:01 AM
VivianZ said...
OMG! This is beautiful. The work is so evident. Thanks for sharing.
11/25/12 7:39 AM
mending maven said...
SPECTACULAR! Words do not express!
11/25/12 7:59 AM
JEF said...
Amazingly beautiful.
11/25/12 8:26 AM
Jstarr4250 said...
I have never heard of Alabama Chenin before - thank you for bringing it to my attention. Your top is a triumph and a masterpiece. Wear it with great pride.
11/25/12 9:04 AM
Mary M. Mohr said...
This is an amazing garment. What beautiful execution. Have you done much handwork before? And with the bolero it is ahh! Was the bolero something you just concocted or was it also included in the Chanin book?
11/25/12 1:03 PM
newmama said...
Your handwork is amazing and the result is so elegant and stunning. Such beautiful work, thank you for sharing.
11/25/12 2:47 PM
JOshiro said...
A work of art! Thank you for sharing this with us.
11/25/12 5:28 PM
wimmie said...
Simply beautiful.. I never heard of the Alabama Chanin book either. Looks very classy. thanks for the review.
11/26/12 10:17 AM
lcdrbetty said...
I can't come up with an expletive that hasn't already been used...your work is fabulous! I absolutely love it! The bolero adds a whole new demention to WOW!
11/28/12 9:52 AM
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