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Butterick: 3787 (Summer hats for Rain!) - Type:Accessories    printable version
Viewed 59 times 1 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 1 people   
Reviewed by:karen n
photo
About karen nstar
WA
Member since: 11/24/08
Reviews written: 31
Sewing skills:Advanced Beginner
Favored by: 7 people
patterns reviewed: 30
Bio: more...
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Posted on:11/25/12 8:53 PM
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo: Butterick Pattern Info

More Info provided by karen n

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
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Fabric:Gore-Tex  [See other projects in this fabric]
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It has been raining even more than the stereotype of Seattle and we are drenched! I am finally making rainhats to keep the boys' heads dry since hoods tend to slip off their busy little bodies!

Pattern Description: 4 lined hats: floppy wide brimmed summer, smaller brimmed, baseball, baseball with back flap. I chose the one with the backflap for rain sheeting purposes, modeling if off my DH's expensive REI version.

Pattern Sizing: s, m, l. I made these for my toddler boys. Their heads measure 20" (small is 21.5"). I graded down to an XS but with a fleece lining, it was a tad snug. If using fleece, I'd go one size larger.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, but better as my back flap flares out more, which I like.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't follow the instructions as I've made hats before. I changed it up a bit and think my method is better. For my sequence, see bottom. 3 biggest tips:
1. Clip lots in the inside edge of the bill and backflap to the basting line and then attach. It comes out way smoother and you don't have to mess with easing.
2. Trim the bill and backflap (outside edge) 1/16" and it'll be smoother than any clipping. I saw a study on this and it's true!
3. Don't hand stitch the lining to the cap or fold up the edge! Yuck! just turn right sides together (nesting) and use your sewing machine to stitch leaving a 3" opening. Turn it inside out and hand stitch the small opening. Looks much nicer and way easier!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Looks great and very easy to get good results!

Fabric Used: Yard sale thin goretex like waterproof fabric for the outside ($3 can make 5 hats) and gecko print fleece from stash for lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
1. Since this was a rainhat, I minimized outside holes. See "Boring Rainwear Tips" below.
2. I lined with fleece which is bulky. To adjust for different thicknesses in fabric, I cut the goretex 1/4" longer than the fleece. I sewed and topstiched the fleece with a regular 5/8" seam. I serged the goretex with a 3/8" seam so it's a little bigger and did not topstich.
3. To fit toddler "petiteness," I cut cap 1/2" shorter. I kept the bill and backflap original length.
4. There are 3 cap pieces (front, back, sides). I just cut 6 of the "front" to save time and it seems to be fine.
5. The bill needs more stiffness. My first version had a buckled bill. 2nd try, I used 2 layers of medium weight woven sew-in interfacing for the bottom layer which is topstiched. I used fusible for the top bill layer. Next time I'll fuse 2 layers on top. Put it all together and you get decent shape. Steam and cool over ham to shape. For the backflap, I only used 1 layer of sew in interfacing which was fine.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Can't wait to make one for myself and DH!

Conclusion: So happy to find this in some seriously old stash (2003!) since it was just the ticket!

Boring Tips for Working with Rainwear:
1. Minimize holes on outside which are just leakpoints. I didn't get seam sealer tape but you can do that. On bill and backflap, I only "topstiched" the bottom side. The real top was edgestitched using a longer stitch to join it together.
2. I did not topstitch the goretex cap.
3. Pin only in seam allowances to minimize holes.
4. Think about the "turn of the collar" with the way the rain will fall and adjust bill and backflap on a fake head (covered ham) so rain will be diverted off the face and away from neckline.
5. Use polyester thread. I had 30% cotton/70% blue thread which was a closer color match but it soaked up way more water in my test!

My sequence:
1. Sloppy cutting of bill and backflap - Cut only 1 fabric of each to pattern preciseness. Cut all else a little sloppy and bigger. Reason: when I take all the pain of cutting all those little pieces the "right shape," invariably they slip during sewing and I have gaps. So, by using my sloppy technique, ironically, I get way more accuracy!
2. Bill/Backflap sewing -
a. Topstich nice cut piece to interfacing. Now trim interfacing to shape.
b. Right sides together. Stitch bottom edge. Trim 1/16".
c. Turn rightside out. Edge stitch (with blindfoot hem) slightly turning edge seam downward so rain won't get in.
d. Baste inside edge. Now trim inside edge. Beautiful!
e. Clip lots on that inside edge up to the basting line but not through it. I clip every 1/2 to 3/4".

3. Cap - I just cut 6 of the "front piece". The outside fabric is 1/4" longer. Sew and topstitch lining. Serge the outside. My method: sew 3 triangles together. Then sew the other 3. Now, arrange the seams and put the 2 combos together and sew one long semi-circle.

4. Attach bill and backflap.

5. Next caps, right sides together and sew lining to outside cap leaving a 3" opening. Turn right side out and slip stitch the opening. Done!

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1 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Pj3g said...
Very cute! A great hat for your weather!
11/26/12 2:26 PM
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