|I made this pattern up as a wedding gown for my niece-in law. She wanted a strapless, sweetheart, fit & flare (not quite mermaid) style. This pattern was the starting point for the gown.|
Here are the inspiration pictures: #1 and #2
Pattern Description: Close-fitting, straight, lined dress, floor length, has boning, foundation, inside belt, shaped, back hemline and back zipper.
For some reason, the Vogue site doesn't show the line drawing for this pattern. Here it is.
Pattern Sizing: 8-18
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not really, but it was modified quite a bit.
Here is the finished back.
Were the instructions easy to follow? For a formal, designer Vogue dress, it's quite simple in its construction.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the lines (easy to modify) and the fact that it has a built-in foundation to support the dress.
Fabric Used: Off-white poly peau de soie, with tulle at the bottom, and covered in beaded lace. The foundation is made from coutil and the dress is lined with rayon bemberg.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I started by tracing off the pattern and extending the front and back darts parallel to the grainline to create princess seams. I then flared out the bottoms of each piece starting just above knee level to get the right skirt shape. Here are the finished pattern pieces.
I also did a FBA, changed the neckline to a sweetheart shape, and lengthened the dress by 6" (she's very tall!)
I made the foundation from 2 layers of a beige corset coutil. A white foundation would have changed the color of the off-white satin too much. Foundation front and back. The pattern calls for only 4 bones in the foundation- the ones at the side of the bust and at the back princess seam. I used 13! The back of the foundation closes with hook and eye tape.
I made up the base of the dress in the satin: front and back. The satin part of the dress was hemmed with 2" heavy horsehair braid to help keep its shape.
Then I hand tacked and shaped the lace to the upper part of the dress. The lace that extended down over the tulle was in two additional pieces. I trimmed it higher in the front (for walking ease) and then lower in the back like the inspiration gown. I cut off the scalloped edges of the lace and used them to trim the top of the bodice.
I was able to cut the tulle in a single piece- it's basically a huge, oval doughnut shape. There are 6 layers stitched directly on to the satin. However, once the heavy lace was added on top of it, there wasn't enough loft, so I added several "handkerchief" type pieces of tulle underneath it to keep it from flattening out.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would definitely recommend it. It's not overly complicated and is easily modified. I'll keep the pattern around in case I have the opportunity to make any similar formal dresses.
Conclusion: I had to have this whole gown done from start to finish in just over a month- never again!!!