Islander Sewing Systems: 203 (Men's Classic Dress Shirt) - Type:Mens - Shirts  |
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 Work in Progress | |
| Reviewed by: | Bombyxmori | 
| | About Bombyxmori | | CA | | Member since: 12/1/12 | | Reviews written: 3 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | patterns reviewed: 3 | | Bio: more... |
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| Posted on: | 12/1/12 4:24 PM |
| Pattern Size: | Plus-Sized Regular |
| Pattern Photo: | 
Islander Sewing Systems Pattern Info |
| See other patterns in this category: Mens - Shirts |
Available for sale on PR: $19.95 (See envelope)  |
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| This is a work in progress. Bombyxmori is currently working on it, but still wants to share it with you. Please feel free to comment on this. |
| Fabric: | Cotton [See other projects in this fabric] |
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Pattern Description:
Mens Dress shirt is a traditional design with long sleeves and two pocket and collar variations. Loose fit with a generous ease. Industry construction techniques are included.
Pattern Sizing:
M-4XL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. Not that I looked very closely at either.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Sort of. Maybe. Not sure any more which instructions I used from package insert and which were from various blogs and books. Printed directions contain multiple advertisements for technique instruction videos. Heh, subtle.
http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com
http://sewintriguing.blogspot.com/2006/11/shirtmaking-information.html
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/
http://alittlesewing.blogspot.com
http://lavraiechemisesurmesure.blogspot.com/
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Like 1/4", 3/8" seam allowances where appropriate and availability of metric equivalents. (Although on some pattern pieces, only inch allowances are printed.) Dislike narrow allowances at sleeve cap, as if I'd really serge and stitch down the SA. Like curved upper back seam, wonder whether yoke should be curved to match.
Body is huge through the middle, and collar is significantly smaller than big-4 equivalents, so check pieces against measurements of intended wearer. Adjustments for prominent belly and/or full hips probably not necessary. Check cuff size, too.
Fabric Used:
- Italian cotton shirting from Michael & Sherry http://www.michaelsfabrics.com/store/
- interfacings and buttons from Pamela Erny https://www.fashionsewingsupply.com/
- abundant profanity generated by wildly sub-standard pressing set-up, borrowed third-hand semi-functional sewing machine, and inquisitive feline
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- added 1/2" SA to sleeve cap for flat felling
- skipped front bands/plackets, instead cut on fabric to fold in
- used DPC sleeve placket and front pocket
- modified collar per Pam Erny's directions http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com/2009/10/special-shirt-collarand-its-pattern.html
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and yes.
Conclusion:
This was the first shirt I've ever made, so I wasn't expecting much. The toile I sewed "out of the package" was pretty hideous, so I did another round of blog reading, made adjustments listed above, and look forward to refining both the pattern and my skills.
Will edit links and add pictures later, on another break from sewing second round.
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