Jalie: 2682 (Jalie-top) - Type:Tops  | | Viewed 242 times
| | Review rated Very Helpful by 7 people | | Reviewed by: | Quickie | 
| About Quickie | | NETHERLANDS | | Member since: 10/8/10 | | Reviews written: 28 | | Sewing skills:Advanced | | Favored by: 5 people | | patterns reviewed: 28 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 12/30/12 1:41 PM | | Last Updated: | 12/30/12 1:53 PM | | Pattern Size: | Plus-Sized | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | More Info provided by Quickie | | Pattern Rating: | Great Wardrobe Builder | | | | Fabric: | Viscose Jersey [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Aqua
Wearable ut not perfect muslin for Jalietop 2682
Pattern Description:
Stylish V-neck top, raised neckline at back, with or without sleeves
View A has a zipper at front neckline for more coverage.
I am going to use this pattern for the contest of one pattern,many styles I plan to use view B with long sleeves
Pattern Sizing:
The pattern is for a child to a plussized woman
I am plussized irregular
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I gues so, but this is my muslin and that has short sleeves
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Oh yes, like all Jalie patterns
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I took a fancy for it because it hasa empire waistline and that is a better startingpoint for all the alterations I have to make
Fabric Used:
viscose lycra
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
A lot, That's what this review is about
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am starting a row of those tops because I want to take part in the contest of one pattern many looks
Conclusion:
Most of the adaptations are made in this muslin. I want to add more room at the bust and make the armskye deeper.
For the coming contest of one pattern many looks I decided to give a try to Jalie 2682. I had made it before (than as is) and had loved it but knew also that it would not fit anymore. It is a top with a - not very snug- empire waistline. That could help me to solve fitting problems. So I decided to change the paper pattern and subsequently make a muslin. Fitting is largely a thing of decicions on what to and how to. I think that many of you know how to deal with it, but I thaught that still some would like to see how I did it this time and in this case. I know that there are many ways to deal with fitting. There is not something like one truth or one method. My overall approach now is to leave as much as possible of the design intact and to make not one big change in one place, but to do a lot of smaller steps by walking around the pattern. You see them marked in the picture and in my views They helped me to not distorting too much the pattern as a whole .
Issues to deal with
Heavy-busted, broad back ,petite in the upper part of the bodice, narrow shoulders, swayback but low waist in the front, a protruding butt and both my abdomen and stomach are rounded .
If you can only read about me you might think that I have an ugly bodyť. I think that I am older and plussized and just a bit disabled and that I can make a lot of the disadvantages less visible by careful fitting. I am glad that this is not a beautycontest.
I choose -as startingpoint- in the Jalie-listing the for me right full bust size and did cut out size EE. Perhaps Jalie is overall a bit snug.I know by experience that my body is shorter than average in the upperpart of the bodice. Jalie has the system that you can gradually draw between the lines to go from one size to another. After measuring .I decided that I could easily go from EE at the side seam to CC at the shoulder-point. That was the first adaptation in upper front and upper back ( I on the picture). It had consequences for the the heighth, but also for the width. However when I measured , I found that the front and back-pattern-pieces were still too wide in the shoulders. I started adapting in the frontpart. One more inch to take out......I decided that it would be better to further leave the shape of the armhole alone, so I cut the upper-front- from the shoulder down and from the side-seam in horizontal direction. That gave me a gap at the sideseam ( II on the picture) that I did not want to become a dart. So I skipped it an took the extra length off at the side seam (III on the picture).and let it gradually disappear in the empire waistline, that is no longer straight, but a bit rounded. Now I measured on my body from under- bustline around my neck to the under-bust-line again and devided that in half and found that I still had to add something to the centre -front waistline and gradually curved it to the side seam. (IV in the picture) All these changes made the waistline longer so I did cut off the surplus (V).I could have made my top smaller in the array under the bust, but I didn’t want more definition there. Over my stomach and tummy things can better be left a bit roomy, although not very wide.
Now back to the back-part. It was already adapted in step I. As in step II one inch more was taken out of the shoulder-line of the frontpart , I had to consider what to do with the shoulder-line in the back-part. I dont fancy darts in knits and I didnt want to further distort the armskye There were two more possibilities. I could take the surplus away in the centre back or ease it in. I Choose for easing ( step VI in the picture , because the centreback seam was already a bit rounded and I didnt want to exaggerate that to avoid attention to my broad back.
Still one issue left : I have a swayback. I am aware that this problem sits in the natural waistline but I cook care of it above the empire waistline I did take out the necessary amount in the centreback seam of the upper backpart. (step VII)
The lower frontpart was left as is.
In the lower backpart I had to deal with a very protruding butt. I added room for that at VIII.
I dont like adding at the hipside. I think the curve will be too exaggerated then.
As I have lymphatic oedema in my arms I want a roomy sleeve. So I kept size EE and lowered the armcap .
As you may think this is a lot of walking around the pattern to take a bit out here or to add a bit there. In this way I hope to keep up the idea of the pattern as much as possible.
I sewed the muslin Aqua. It has short sleeves. For muslin purposes enough, but in reality the reason is that I ran out of fabric. I finished it because it is good enough to wear it in summer, but is not part of the contest. The adapted pattern has in the lower back a centre-back-seam instead of a fold, but that is necessary for fitting purposes,
In the pictures you can see the outcome. To me it'ss a good basis for my participation of the januari- contest. Then Ill make the view B with the original long sleeves. Ill hope to be able to add something at the empire waistline under the bust, and I am sure that the arm-skye can be a bit deeper. I can already enjoy inventing variations
Writing this review now gives me the opportunity to deal with the variations in the contest and that I then will not have to bother with explaining the fitting -thing.
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5 Comments
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Love the aqua color and neckline.
12/30/12 2:42 PM
Great start! I look forward to seeing your other variations on this pattern.
12/30/12 10:20 PM
You have done a great deal of work on your pattern. Being "differently" shaped myself, I know that the only way a pattern will look good is investing the time initially - so your walking around the pattern taking bits and pieces is a great way to alter it to fit. Good luck with the next stage. I look forward to seeing your entries into the contest.
12/31/12 3:45 AM
Thank you all for the encouragement
12/31/12 4:05 AM
Your shirt looks great! Excellent review!
1/1/13 3:56 PM