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Vogue Patterns: 8774 (Jeans view A) thumbsup - Type:Pants
Review submitted in One Pattern, Many Looks Contest    printable version
Viewed 816 times 16 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 2 people    Very Helpful by 8 people   
Reviewed by:French.Seam
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About French.Seamstarstar
NA UNITED KINGDOM
Member since: 12/10/07
Reviews written: 125
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 12 people
patterns reviewed: 109
Bio: more...
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Posted on:1/19/13 9:34 AM
Last Updated:1/31/13 4:38 PM
Project Photo:photo
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 8774
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info

More Info provided by French.Seam

Pattern Rating:Recommend, with Modifications
See other patterns in this category: Pants    
Available for sale on PR: $18.75 (See envelope)
Current Tags What is a Tag:
Fabric:Cotton Twill  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description: "Fitted" "skinny" jeans. Actually, they're neither fitted nor skinny

(view B is a bootcut version)

Blue needlecord version Here. (they're still not snug enough on the back thigh).

Pattern Sizing: I'm usually a 14. This pattern is so big that I made a 10, and it's STILL too roomy in the back thigh.
I managed to squeeze the pattern pieces into 1.2m of fabric instead of 1.6m

I then pinched out the excess fabric below my butt, and sewed a dart in each leg. Not pretty, but it's a wearable muslin.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very. I did have a problem cutting out the waistband though: I got confused where the cutting line was, and cut it off too short

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? What I liked best were the really helpful reviews on here. I copied them into a Works document and printed them off, annotating as I sewed.

- there is a lot of changing between normal thread and topstitching thread: so I put my topstitch thread in the bobbin, and just turned the fabric over when I needed to do topstitching. No need for re-threading

- Instead of real flat felled ones, the pattern has you topstitch to give the illusion of FF seams, which is quick and effective. The topstitching is only on the top part of the jeans, not on the legs. I might topstitch down the outside seam of the legs next time

- I like the low (but not too low) rise and how the waistband dips down in the front, it's flattering to the tummy. The fashion industry is trying to get us back into high-waisted trousers, but they are very unflattering

- the pockets are nearly a decent size: I made the coin pocket slightly bigger so I can get a dog poop bag in there, and I cut the side pockets a little deeper too. It's 0c here in the UK, and I need to put my hands in my pockets

- my weight fluctuates quite a lot, so I sewed 2 buttonholes on the waistband (not hook & eye as suggested)

- version A don't have a design on the rear pockets. I fancied a bit of applique, so I stitched on a piece of the lining cotton

- this pattern uses a different method for zip insertion to what I'm used to. I went with it though, and pleased with the result. If you don't like it, try Sandra Betzina's easy fly zip method here

Fabric Used:
My wearable muslin is pale green cotton twill with widthwise stretch.

Version #2 to follow: A red/black denim that I'd been coveting for ages and bought with my Xmas money. They sell it in purple or yellow too.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

- As usual, I cut 10cm off the length of the legs (I'm 5' 3", not Heidi Klum)

- I cut 2 sizes smaller than usual, and I didn't need my full thigh alteration

- Even with a size 10 waist, I needed to put a dart in the back waist (2") to help eliminate a gap in the back. Don't forget to alter the yoke and the waistband too

- If you want to take excess fabric out from under the butt - make two darts, perpendicular to the grainline and up to an inch wide at the inside leg seam, tapering to nothing at the outside seam. Do this adjustment before starting to sew up.

- The pattern would have you press under the seam allowance on the coin pocket and mitre the corners, but that is very bulky, and it all is hidden inside another pocket anyway, so I just serged/finished the bottom edge instead.

- They also have you sew the long carrier piece right sides together and TURN it, which is hard with bulky denim. Instead, you could do it this way

- They also tell you to close the fly with a hook and eye: I don't. Make a vertical buttonhole, it looks better and is stronger.

- They have denim lining for the pocket which adds unnecessary bulk. Instead, I cut my pocket linings half of denim half of lining cotton.

- The fly seam edges are meant to be bound with a denim bias trim - again, too bulky. I used the same cotton fabric as used for the pocket lining.

- I faced (lined) the waistband with the same cotton too. In summary, pieces 3, 7, 15 and half of 2 were cut from cotton lining.

Thanks to Lynn67's review and to ClothingEngineer and PoppyKettle too

Will you sew it again? I have some needlecord that I want to use up, so probably will, yes. I love cord jeans, comfier than denim ones.

What else did you like?
I did my photo montage/collage in Paint. I realised that I can stretch the photos to make my legs look considerably longer & thinner !! (but didn't).

Conclusion:

I'm so glad I read all the reviews properly, and took notes and took my time. I tried on the pants at every stage of construction so I could tweak the fit. Amazingly, I never used to bother doing this, and wondered why my garments never fit properly.
Buy this pattern for $18.75  List Price: $25.00   Add to Bag Add to Bag
 
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10 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
bigalsgal said...
those are good looking britches!( i know your pain, no supermodel here either!)
1/19/13 12:44 PM
imsewcrazy said...
These look great! Love the cotton lining you used. Great idea.
1/19/13 1:06 PM
becca a said...
Great jeans! Your lining fabric is very pretty. Thanks for the thorough review.
1/20/13 10:21 AM
RadarRadiance said...
I am looking at the wedge you darted out under the hind end (4"below pocket) It is in a wedge shape, how did you get your pattern to lay flat and keep the side/inside seams the same length? I could use this adjustment but can't figure it out? thanks...
1/27/13 11:14 AM
French.Seam said...
Radar: I didn't alter the pattern, I just pinched out & sewed the excess in the fabric. On the 3rd pair (to follow) I have altered the pattern
1/29/13 11:54 AM
Quickie said...
great jeans
1/31/13 5:19 PM
Sewiing Sue said...
Nice applique. Very helpful review.
1/31/13 5:32 PM
Jacqui315 said...
Wow! You've sewn three great new jeans. LOVE the red/black denim and you rock them!
1/31/13 8:29 PM
StudioCherie said...
Thanks for taking time to write such a thorough review. Congratulations on your contest entry. Your pants look great and I hope you get a lot of use out of all of them. Great work!
2/5/13 7:13 PM
ghijsmom said...
Wow! Great review and three great fitting, knock-out pants!
2/5/13 11:44 PM
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