|I was looking for an elegant winter dress pattern with long sleeves. This new release from Kay Unger is exactly that, with a cool pleated back midriff detail to boot.|
"Lined dress has forward shoulder seams, bias front, fitted bodice with shoulder pleats, raised waist, semi-fitted skirt, right side pleats, bias back pleated midriff, invisible back zipper, and slit."
Pattern Sizing: 10 - 26. I cut the 10, but sized the bodice and waist down to about an 8.
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions are excellent.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love all the pleats - the front waist pleats are really flattering. Also, the pattern is drafted really well - all the markings match perfectly, so I was happy.
Fabric Used: Red Sophia double knit from Fabric.com. I'm pretty obsessed with this fabric - it's so soft, and way more well behaved than any knits I've ever worked with. I would order more of this stuff, but I'm already hoarding way too much fabric. I used tricot for the lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I wasn't too sure about the cowl from the pictures on the pattern, so I made a muslin for the bodice. My backup plan was to use a cowl neckline from another pattern, but my muslin turned out okay, so I sewed the pattern as is.
Cowl neck line
As for alterations - my usual change (I've now realized) of removing 1.5" from the back neckline. I also tried to do a swayback adjustment on the skirt back, but ended up with some unsightly wrinkles. To adjust for that, I took a horizontal wedge out (from the side seam tapering to nothing at the CB) at the waist seam. I also adjusted the CB seam slightly to accommodate my full behind. I'm pretty sure all these adjustments threw the grain out of whack, but I don't think it's that noticeable.
I thought the skirt was a bit loose, so I removed some width from the skirt front.
Back Changes - Picture on the left is original. Picture on the right, only the right side of the skirt had been modified as detailed above. Big thanks to PR Fitting Woes message board for helping with this fitting.
I love this dress, mostly because the fabric is so scrumptious. I think the cowl looks better in person than in pictures.
My one regret (other than not muslining the skirt) is my choice of lining. I didn't have red tricot on hand, so I used a beige color. The lining peeks out a bit at the neckline.
Also, for a supposedly easy pattern, this project was more time consuming than I anticipated. Pleat matching ain't no picnic. I'm glad I took the time though. I really enjoyed putting this together, pleat by pleat. The lining inserting at the neckline is very clever as well.
Back View - I'm not sure what's going on with the bubble above the slit - will try to press that out
Front View on dress form
Back Waist Pleats