Pattern Description: Dress has low neckline slit, close-fitting bodice cut-in-one with sleeves (slit), side back bodice extending into uderarm gusset, lined midriff, single-layer tie ends (wrongside shows), skirt with side front/side back seams, side front pockets/vents, invisible back zipper, stitched hems, and self-bias binding. Topstitching and edgestitching.
Pattern Sizing:B5(8-10-12-14-16), F5(16-18-20-22-24)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? More like the original runway version.
Were the instructions easy to follow? For a Vogue designer pattern, the instructions were reasonable.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?When I was getting ready to cut this pattern out, I came to the realization that even though I've collected almost every Rucci pattern that VP has released, I've never made one. That was really surprising, downright shocking considering how much I admire his designs and skill. If you ever run across his documentary "Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House" on Sundance channel, it's a must see! He's a serious haute couturier!
Fabric Used: faux suede from Mood Fabrics.com. The color is "cinnabar", but it fits right in with the Fall/Winter 2012-13 oxblood trend. This fabric feels so luxurious. It feels and behaves like a real suede. I found that while sewing this, I needed to use a teflon foot (or a walking foot would work too).
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:Now the fabric suggestions are faux suede and a lightweight double knit. Things that make you go "hmmmm..." As long as I've been sewing, that should've given me pause. Those two fabrics move, drape, wear and behave completely differently. Either a garment made in the woven fabric is going to be too tight (not enough wearing ease) or the knit garment is going to be too loose (too much ease for a knit garment). I'm always perplexed when such opposite fabric suggestions are offered. But oh well, I decided to go with the fabric similar to the runway version of the dress, because it's all I could envision when I pictured the outcome of this pattern. I'll learn one day...
I checked the flat pattern/finished measurements as I always do and cut my normal size for VP patterns. I'm going to tell you right now, this pattern did not offer ANY altering lines. So if you need to add or subtract, you're on your own with this one. Most patterns are almost always at least an inch too short in the waist for me, so I added an inch to the bodice. I should've done an FBA. Even though the neck slit isn't gaping, it would've probably laid closer together. And I added 3 inches to the skirt because this dress was pretty short. As you see, it still stops above the knee. How I made this alteration was to find a good place in the middle of each pattern piece and cut there to add my additional length. I choose to do it this way instead of going to the bottom as not add additional width.
Do you ever find yourself making nonsensical mistakes while sewing? I do all of the time, just like I did on this pattern. When I added length to the bodice, I didn't really take into account that this would affect my zipper... and maybe I should go a little longer. So my zipper ended up being a little too short. And remember that thing I just said about the way different fabrics react? Yeah... the dress ended up being too tight. But with all of the work of topstitching and edgestitching I had invested, no way was this going to be a wader. I added 1" panels to each side of the center back and repeated the same type of stitching and made it work.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know if I'll sew it again, but I'd recommend it if you like this style.
Conclusion: All and all, I really like this dress. I don't think I'll sew this pattern again, but if I did here are things I'd do different: use a double knit; eliminate the tie ends so that I could do a belt if I like; and eliminate the useless pockets.
Here are more pictures. |
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Beautiful dress, lovely color, good fit. Very nicely done.
1/23/13 2:27 PM
The color of this dress is just gorgeous and looks absolutely lovely on you. Thank you for this detailed review. Great job making it work!
1/23/13 4:02 PM
Great dress and review.
1/23/13 4:24 PM
Beautiful, Erica and thank you for the detailed review!
1/23/13 5:55 PM
I can see why you really like this dress. I have admired all of the RR patterns, but this is one of few that suits me and I have nowhere to wear it. I hope you get lots of use of this beautiful dress! And an especially useful review too.
1/23/13 6:55 PM
Wow, this dress sounds like a lot of work.. In the end you ended up with a stunning dress.
1/23/13 7:00 PM
Gosh! You did an amazing job as always! I have this pattern and double knit fabric but I'm kind of reluctant to start. Hope my results are as good as yours!
1/23/13 7:13 PM
Erica your dress looks great, and red suede (cinnabar)...yum! Thanks for the very helpful review as I am about to make this myself! That was a great save on your part to add the panels in...it made the dress your own and none would be the wiser. BTW, I will definitely be looking for the documentary on Ralph Rucci, thanks for that info!
1/23/13 7:43 PM
Fabulous dress...looks gorgeous on you. Love your color choice and you did a great job!
1/23/13 7:51 PM
The midriff and shoulder lines of this dress are so flattering. Thanks for the detailed review. And I agree with you about that goofy pocket placement. I have a RTW dress like this and they make no sense at all!
1/23/13 8:02 PM
Beautiful fabric and color and it looks wonderful on you. I am working on a Chado Ralph Rucci pattern at present--a challenge.
1/23/13 8:59 PM
Thanks for this great review. I have this pattern and was also thinking of using faux suede like you...now think a knit maybe the way to go! Great job as ever.
1/24/13 1:48 AM
Wow! They should have used your version as the envelope cover! You're a knock-out'!
1/24/13 2:56 AM
PS: I definitely think you should make this again. It's a shame to perfect a pattern and then not sew it again. You can get a much different look in the knit for example, as you mention.
1/24/13 3:00 AM
This is outstanding! Beautiful on you and what a project.
1/24/13 11:11 AM
Gorgeous!
1/24/13 7:24 PM
Beautiful dress that looks fantastic on you!
1/25/13 10:01 AM
Looks great on you as always. Love the tan boots with this also.
1/28/13 4:08 PM
Erica, I love your reviews and this dress is no exception. You are one amazing seamstress and surely make those Vogue Patterns come to life!
2/3/13 10:01 AM