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|30 more reviews|
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|Reviewed by:||emr|| |
|Posted on:||1/28/13 10:05 PM |
|Last Updated:||9/16/14 11:02 PM|
Simplicity Pattern Info
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 10 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket |
|Fabric:||Faux Leather [See other projects in this fabric]|
|UPDATE 2/21 - Sleeves and fitting|
Many times reviewed Project Runway coat in three lengths with many front, collar, sleeve, and pocket detail options. I'm creating a version of the single breasted short coat with the mandarin collar and long button cuffs in faux red leather.
This is a work in progress write up of my coat taking a detailed look at the steps for creating lined, interfaced, and underlined coat with bound buttonholes and bias binding details.
Thin red faux leather
Read my review of a vest where I tested out the fabric
Burgundy Taffeta (buttonhole and binding)
Dark Brown Silk Charmeuse (lining)
Thick and medium weight cotton flannel (underlining and interfacing)
Check the pattern pieces and the back of the pattern. This coat has a lot of ease built in. Since I am choosing not to so a version with a belt, I cut a smaller size that will result in 4" of ease. It was about 3 sizes down from what you'd expect from my measurements.
My fake leather is very thin and the pattern really needs a structured fabric. To increase the body of the leather I needed to underline it, but I did not want to run the risk of changing the way the leather hangs since it is quite fussy and prone to moving. Hand basting the underlining to the fabric and sewing as a single piece was not going to work. I was going to have to sew the underlining together as its own layer and baste it to the garment as I go.
A medium weight flannel was perfect and it has the added benefit of adding warmth to the coat.
How It Works:
1) Cut, sew, and press the sleeve in the red leather Leather Layer
2) Make an exact mirror of the sleeve in flannel, pressing seams open and keeping flannel sleeve inside out Flannel Layer
3) Insert the flannel sleeve into the leather sleeve with wrong sides together Layers together
4) HAND baste top and bottom edges of sleeves together, making sure to smooth the fabric and match up edges, markings, and seams. Hand basting is essential here to prevent the fabric from moving as you put the pieces together. Basting
5) Work with the sleeve as a single piece when attaching the cuffs, and body.
BOUND BUTTON HOLES & BIAS BINDING:
I hit a major snag when I pulled this project out of my closet. The fake leather would not work well with a sewn buttonhole and I did not have any fabric left over to make bound buttonholes. (Curse my spring cleaning!)
Forced with the need to use a different fabric for the buttonholes, and no buttons, I was off to the fabric store. I selected buttons and a burgundy taffeta that would offset the leather well without drawing too much attention to themselves. However, I needed to bring this new fabric into more of coat so it looked deliberate instead of like the mistake it was. My solution was to bind the edges of the coat in the taffeta as a design detail.
Cuff with buttons, binding, and buttonholes
Bias Binding How It Works:
1) Determine the width of the binding you want to see on the coat. I chose 1/2 inch.
2) To figure out the width of the bias strips, multiply that width by 4 and add a 1/4" to accommodate folding the fabric around the edges of the garment. For me it was 4 1/4" (.5 x 4 +.25)
3) Cut 4 1/4" bias strips out of the taffeta at a 45 degree angle from the selvage edge. I cut a whole lot, in order to make sure I had plenty of fabric to go around all the edges of the coat, the cuffs and the collar.
4) Join the strips with 1/4" seams see picture
5) Press seams open and roll the completed bias strip onto an old toilet paper roll to keep it from stretching until you are ready to use it. See picture
Bound Buttonholes How It Works:
1) Measure your button from the bottom of the shank all the way around the top and back to the shank. For me, my 7/8" wide buttons measured 2.5" all the way around.
2) Take half that measurement. It equals the width of your bound buttonholes. (1 1/4" for me)
2) Mark the location, ends, and length of your button holes on the wrong side of your interfaced cuff Marked buttonhole
3) Make button strips (welts) by cutting 2" strips on the straight grain out of the taffeta. I added a layer of flannel interfacing to give it more body.
4) Fold the 2" strip in half (now 1" wide) and a sew 1/8" seam from the folded edge.
5) Cut strip down to 1/4" wide, making sure to center your seam in the middle of the strip. Your welts are ready!
4) Machine baste in all your marked lines on your cuff for the buttonholes, being sure to extend the stitching at least 1/2" past where the lines join.
5) On the RIGHT side of the fabric, place a welt (cut to about 1" longer than your finished buttonhole) so the raw edge aligns with the buttonhole line.
6) Using really short stitches, sew over the seam in your welt starting and stopping exactly at the edges of your buttonhole.
7) Repeat with a second welt strip, butting the raw edge against the first strip already sewn. (Turning welts)
8) Follow standard instructions for cutting and turning.
9) Baste raw edges together and tack sew down edges to hold welts and corners in place. completed buttonhole
SLEEVES & CUFFS:
With the sleeves sewn, flannel underlining attached, and cuffs complete including bound buttonholes and bias binding, my next step was attaching them to each other and creating a clean finish while managing the many many layers of fabric.
I chose to insert in a 1/2" bias strip between the cuff and sleeve as a design detail. This created a nice continuity with the bias binding and helped me address how to handle the excess fabric bulk in this seam where topstitching would not have created as clean of a finish as I wanted. On the inside of the sleeve, I graded all my seam allowances and hand stitched the leather to the flannel creating smooth and fully finished interior.
Sleeve and cuff
Bias Strip How It Works:
1) Cut a length of the bias already made for bias binding, equal to the length of the bottom of the sleeve opening plus 5/8"
2) Turn and press 1/4" in on the end of the cut strip.
3) With wrong sides together, fold and press strip in half length wise. It now measures 1 1/8" wide. (1/2" + 5/8" seam allowance)
4) On outside of sleeve (right side), align raw edge of folded bias strip with the raw edge of lower sleeve starting at the inside seam of sleeve.
5) Pin strip all the way around lower edge of sleeve, tucking raw edge at the end of the bias strip into the pressed and turned edge to complete the circle.
6) baste strip in place.
7) Pin cuff to sleeve (right sides together) and sew through all thicknesses.
Finishing & Managing Seam Allowances How it works:
1) Press sewn seam from both sides to set in stitches
2) Starting with sleeve edge, trim back each layer of fabric in seam allowance, making each layer a bit longer than the last, till reaching the leather layer of the cuff.
3) Press trimmed and graded seam allowance, up towards the sleeve.
4) Slip stitch the cuff seam allowance to the inside of the sleeve to finish edge and control all fabric (in picture, the red leather is slip stitched to the white flannel)
5) Turn sleeve right side out.
6) Press bias strip towards sleeve on the outside and slip stitch upper edge to sleeve.Cuff finish detail
COAT BODY FITTING:
Due to my sway back, I added a center back seam to the coat instead of cutting the back on the fold. This allows me to easily contour the area without throwing the grain off or creating one dart in a design that only has princess seams.
Testing fit using the flannel, I immediately noticed the back had fitting issues. Drag lines were appearing above my hips, there and there were vertical draw lines between my shoulder blades. Two options were available.
1) Adjust the princess seams at the back and side back
2) Adjust the center back seam
Pinching out excess between the back and side back seams helped with the vertical draw lines, but made the drag lines on my hips worse.
Contouring the center back seam from right below my shoulder blades, coming in at the waist and curving back out at the apex of my hip solved the issues and kept all my side seams about in the right place. I nipped in both side seams from the armpit to the waist by 1/4" to bring everything into alignment.
Pinned center back seam
Transferring Pinned Adjustment to Pattern How it Works:
1) Take off garment lay it flat
2) Adjust pins to make sure alterations are centered equally on both sides of seam.
3) With a pen or chalk, mark location of top pin and bottom pin where they meet with the seam, and the location of the area where the most fabric is pinched out. (for me this was the waist) These are your key marks.
4) Grab your curved styling rulers (hip and sleeve curves) and use them to create a smooth curve between the key point, just to the inside of all your pins.
5) Remove all pins and check your line to see if there are any sharp points or angles, smoothing them out
6) Your NEW seam line is marked.
7) Lay your patter tissue directly over your marked pattern, aligning top, bottom, and original center back seams.
8) Trace new seam line to the tissue, keeping your lines to the OUTSIDE edge of the seam to ensure that you do not nip in too much.
9) Smooth out curves as needed after tracing.
10) Your alterations are now transferred to your pattern.
Marked pattern tissue
More coming soon....
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