|Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined, partially interfaced, below waist jacket has princess seams, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads, in-seam pockets with pleats, side panels (no side seams), shaped hem, and long two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. A: underlined and couture construction techniques.|
Pattern Sizing:12-14 I made a 14, grading to a 12 in the lower side back.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions for the couture method are extremely educational, but did not follow them verbatim. i.e. thread tracing ALL the seam lines. However, when grading from one size to another, this is invaluable. Especially when one piece has a different size grading width compared to its adjoining piece.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?As others have said, this pattern is worth the $$$ for the couture instructions alone. The princess seams make fitting a jacket a dream for my body type. I could never buy a jacket like this off the rack and have it fit without costly alterations.
Fabric Used:100% wool woven, silk organza underlining, lightweight horse hair interfacing. Radiance silk/cotton lining. Muslin was a light weight twillfront view
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:After making the bodice muslin, removed the pleats and pocket. I was pretty sure I wasn't going to like the pleats, but tried it any way. This also made the front bodice fit much more to my liking.
During the muslin fitting, found that I needed a 12 in the arm circumference, found I didn't need any extra length in the sleeves.Muslin
Read in other reviews that the pocket was not very functional, so I omitted it. Added an inside welt pocket. Perfect for a CC, drivers licence, $50 and a tiny lipstick. Inside pocket
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?Yes, probably view B, ready to wear construction in a more casual fabric.
Time line of sewing...if your so interested
2/5/13 Finished muslin, started cutting out wool.
2/6/13 Finished cutting wool, lining, underlining & horse hair. Sewed some underlining pieces to wool pieces.
2/7/13 more underlining to wool sewing g. Getting my courage up for hand work needed for the fronts.
2/16 Been away from the sewing room. Attacked the fronts and the hand sewing required. Not nearly as tedious as I imagined.
2/19 Finished harness and pad stitching
2/20 worked on taping the front, finished under lining, assembled back/sideback, worked on collar
2/21 more collar work, sleeve assembly
2/22 Finished taping fronts, pad stitched undercollar
2/23 assembled side/side front/front finished pad stitching undercollar
2/24-26 set facings, joined fronts & backs, hemmed body, joined shoulders, started pad stitching collar stand
2/27 finished pad stitching collar stand and finished collar assembly
3/8 finished setting & hand stitching collar to jacket
3/9 set 1 sleeve
3/23 set 2nd sleeve, shapped & inserted shoulder pads, steamed the heck out of the sleeves to shrink out fullness, stitched front facing to interfacing, started lining assembly
3/25 finished lining, more shoulder steaming
3/27 made inside pocket
3/31 worked on attaching lining
4/13 attached lining to front facings
4/15 attached lining to neck and shoulders @ 1 arm hole
4/18 attached lining to 2nd arm hole, pinned up lining hem
4/20 basted lining hem to jacket hem, started removing unnessary basting
4/21 attached lining hem to jacket, basted sleeve lining to arm
5/4 took off basted lining to remove "shoulder blade pocket & sleeve tightening back stitching" it made the shoulder to tight. Rebasted sleeve lining to armhoul
5/6 basted 2nd sleeve to armhole, fell stitched sleeve lining to 1 armhole
5/12 fell stitched 2nd sleeve, buttons and buttonholes
Conclusion: I love love love this jacket. It did take some time but was not really that difficult.