|Pattern Description: |
Loose fitting pullover top with asymmetrical seaming, I chose view A
6-22, I used a size 12
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, with modifications
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't find the instructions difficult; I carefully followed the order the first time I made it. The second time, I decided to sew both sleeve underarm seams at the same time, it seemed like a time saving choice. However, it turns out to be nearly impossible to perform the next step with the second underarm already sewn. My advice: follow the pattern order.
I do also think that the neckband instructions were a little vague. This didn't bother me as I have made many knit tops, but it might be a tough spot for a novice seamstress. I should also add here that the neckband as drafted was too large for most sizes. I applied mine as a single layer, right sides together, to the neck edge. Then folded it to the back and stitched it into place with a straight stitch (I had finished the edge with the serger before I stitched into place). My neckband, as applied, was made several inches shorter than the pattern piece.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I loved the fact that it was an unusual construction, kind of like a puzzle. Fun to put together, and fun to see how the front wrapped around to the back, and the back to the front.
I used SewkeysE fusible knit seam tape (I used to use strips of fusible tricot knit cut the depth of the hem, but Sewkey's comes pre-cut) on the bottom and sleeve hems, and a double-needle to stitch it.
Double Needle Hem
I love making knit shirts, and have special, loosened bobbin cases for Superior Poly-Yarn (Poly-Yarn is much like wooly nylon, but doesn't shrink when laundered or melt on contact with a hot iron) to use with the double needle Yes, I have a dedicated cover-stitch machine, but I've come to love the ease of using a double-needle.
Two separate cotton-spandex knits from Stitchology in Albuquerque, NM.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Ah, here is where the caution comes in. It is extremely important that you measure your biceps, and compare the measurement to the pattern sleeve. The pattern is extremely skimpy in the sleeve area. I taught this as a class, thinking that the only alteration would be the one I had made to my own pattern (originally, the pattern was poorly drafted in the sleeve area: the right sleeve and the left sleeve did not match. This appears to have been corrected) which was to add a little seam allowance to the sides of the sleeve hem to facilitate a nicer turn-under (the pattern suggests a narrow hem for the cap sleeve, which I didn't quite like, preferring a turned up, double needle hem). I did add a little width to my sleeve; I wished for the sleeve not to so closely hug my biceps.
However, out of the four women who came to class, the pattern had to be redrafted for three. The sleeve in the large sizes did not come close to accommodating the arms of two of the women, I added at least 4 inches to one. Her arm did not seem at all abnormally large. One of the students was a relatively slim, tall, size 14. She felt the sleeve measurement was too snug for her. The snugness of the sleeve can be compared to many ready-to-wear garments.
Furthermore, as the pattern was graded up in size, it lost consistent shaping: the front underarm seam did not easily match the back underarm seam in the larger sizes. I had to redraft two of the patterns to make them workable. (One student chose to use the same redraft as another student.) My students ended up with workable patterns, but several of them said they would not have finished the project if I had not been there to help them. Yikes, that is not a great recomendation.
I did add sleeves to this version of the top, drafting them a little long, like one of my ready-to-wear tops.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would recommend it but with caution. I believe some might find the oddness of the construction off-putting. Others may be disappointed by the snugness of the sleeve and the strangeness of the grading in the larger sizes (it seems that in each multi-sized pattern, the larger sizes of the set became somewhat odd in the underarm seam.)
I will sew it again, this is my third iteration of this top, and I love all three tops.
Here is my first top, two cotton-spandex knits.First Top
And, here is my second top. The periwinkle fabric is a very stable cotton T-shirt knit from the bargain rack at Walmart. The overlay is a knit, nylon or polyester lace from Hancock Fabrics. Again, from the bargain area.Periwinkle Top with Knit Lace Overlay
I simply serged the edge of the neckline, folded it toward the wrong side, and stitched it with a double needle.
Double Needle Neckline
This pattern really lends itself to making a simple, folded over neckline. It has no shoulder seams to droop down if the neckband is eliminated.
After all the complaints I have made about the pattern, I have to say that I really love it. I think it's fun to make, and easy to wear. It lends itself so well to interesting knit fabric combinations, making each new top very different from the last. I find the asymmetrical seams attractive, and I will most likely make it again.