Spadea: 453 (Dinah Shore Chanel Jacket) - Type:Coat/Jacket  | | Viewed 262 times
| | Review rated Helpful by 1 people | | Reviewed by: | tvjulie | 
 | About tvjulie | | MA USA | | Member since: 6/29/12 | | Reviews written: 5 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 1 people | | patterns reviewed: 5 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 2/8/13 2:19 PM | | Last Updated: | 2/12/13 8:30 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Rating: | Difficult, but great for Advanced Sewers | | | | Fabric: | Wool Tweed [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
This is a pattern from the early 1960's that I bought on Etsy. It's described as a "Dinah Shore Jacket, styled in the beloved Chanel Manner. This easily made lined jacket is contrasted with braid that binds all edges."
Pattern Sizing:
I think it was a 38 bust.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, although I made the sides less boxy and skipped the braid trim.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn't use them, because I used this pattern as a project for Susan Khalje's "Couture Dress" course on Craftsy.com. These vintage patterns are tricky because they have no printing on the pattern pieces, just holes to mark the darts and grainlines. So you need to have experience to figure them out. I used the pattern to mark a muslin pattern as outlined in the course, and it worked out fine. I underlined the wool/novelty yarn tweed with silk organza, quilting the wool to the organza using a walking foot on my machine. I then lined the whole thing with silk crepe de chine. I also added the Chanel chain on the bottom.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that it has a vintage '60's Jackie kind of cut. The sleeves have two darts which give them a nice shape. I also prefer the bust and shoulder darts on this pattern to the princess seams seen on most Chanel Jackets.
Fabric Used:
Wool/novelty yarn tweed, silk organza interlining, crepe de chine lining, copper chain on the bottom hem as a weight.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The shape was a little boxy so I added curves to the side seams. I brought the armscye up a little and made the sleeves narrower. I added the silk organza interlining and quilted it to the exterior fabric. I put sleevehead under the sleeve cap to give the sleeves that couture pop. All of these techniques are described in the "Haute Couture Dress" course on Craftsy.com, which I highly recommend!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, now that I have a fitted muslin pattern, I would definitely make it again.
Conclusion:
This was a really fun introduction to the world of Haute Couture sewing. It took forever, but the feel of the jacket is fantastic, and the organza interlining absolutely keeps it from wrinkling. The crepe de chine lining is so luxurious! I love it. If you're interested in learning more about how I researched making a Chanel jacket, check out my pinterest page called "Make Your Own Chanel Jacket."
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5 Comments
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Another great jacket. I like the texture of your fabric. The lining looks fun too, in the tiny glimpse I can see! Did you find it worked well using a jacket pattern for the dress class? Was the information sufficiently relevant?
2/9/13 6:07 PM
Yes, I was able to do a jacket for the class, and it worked fine. If you look on craftsy.com under "tvjulie" you'll see my report about making this jacket and another Chanel jacket, and the pics are easier to see.
2/9/13 6:20 PM
Fantastic! I have a Dinah Shore coat pattern. Anyway what a beautiful jacket and you were wise to utilize a simple pattern to hone a complex technique.
2/12/13 12:37 PM
Really beautiful jacket - you look wonderful in this
2/12/13 2:01 PM
Thanks for all of your kind comments. I really enjoy using these vintage patterns. It's definitely worth making and fitting a muslin version as the fit is very different from modern patterns. It's actually a fun process. I have to recommend that "Couture Dress" class with Susan Khalje again (on Craftsy.com). It really took my homegrown sewing skills to another level.
2/14/13 8:17 PM