Pattern Description: Loose-fitting, lined jacket has front extending into standing back collar, underarm gusset, right side welt/pocket, lower sleeve attached to lining, exposed zipper, uneven front hemline, and purchased applied trim.
Pattern Sizing: 8-24. I made a size 16. I did not do an FBA and I would usually need to. It is somewhat roomy through the bust.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Not exactly, but that is because I made several changes that affected the appearance. Namely, I converted it to a vest, added a armhole ribbing, narrowed the pocket welt and the decorative zipper tape, and repositioned the pocket to be lower, more towards the side seam and at the same angle as the zipper.
On me
On me, zipped up
On hangar
Neckline closeup
Inside out, on hangar, showing fleece lining.
Were the instructions easy to follow? This is one of those times I referred to the instructions quite a bit, as the neckline is rather unusual. I found them to be good, though I did change the order of construction, mostly because I wanted to attach both edges of the zipper tape at the very end, to ensure that it fit my bust well.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The asymmetric front and the unusual styling. The neckline is really wonderful - it is cut on to the right front. It is cut on the bias, then is sewn to the back neckline and the left front. This is why you see a collar seam on the back and on the left front, but not the right front. The neckline is not interfaced and is rather scrunchy. It is really wonderful. It is not too tight nor too tall.
I also like the single welt pocket, though I had to shorten the pocket sack since i moved it lower (to get it off my bust) and more towards the side seam. I also changed the angle of the welt pocket to mimic the angle of the zipper. Finally, I narrowed the pocket welt to 1-1/4". Instead of using ribbon to cover the zipper tape, I used fabric and also narrowed it to 1-1/4".
Both the pocket welt and the zipper tape fabric are made from black lining fabric that I silk screened using Marcy Tilton's Tiger Stripe medium-sized silk screen and Pewter Lumiere paint.
I was not as much a fan of the cut-on sleeve, though I do normally like gussets, but I didn't like how wide the oversleeve appears. The undersleeve is attached to the lining. Rather than try to fuss with this, I converted the jacket to a vest and removed the sleeves altogether. I got this idea from my friend Heather. I cut the armhole a little too big, so I filled it in by creating a ribbing using some black ponte. I really like this effect.
Fabric Used: A malleable quilted fabric. The lining is a thick black fleece with stretch, so I removed the CB lining pleat and the hem lining pleat. The armhole "ribbing" is made from scraps of black ponte.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I removed about 1/2" from the side seam at the hip, for 2" total reduction. I eliminated the CB seam. And, as mentioned, I chopped off the sleeves.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I can definitely see sewing this again. It is a really neat design, particularly the neckline, but also the zipper closure, and the asymmetric front. If you didn't cover the zipper tape, the unfinished zipper tape would be exposed on the left side, so it's a clever way of handling it. It almost looks from the pattern envelope as if the zipper is inset into the front, but it is not.
Conclusion: I think this pattern has some great boutique RTW style and is pretty easy to make, at least without the sleeves. I highly recommend! This will be a welcome addition to my "to the gym" wear for those chilly early mornings. More on the blog, including lots more pics.
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Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
Love love love it! Adding this to my pattern list for the next Vogue sale :)
2/10/13 11:58 PM
This is fabulous. Really enjoyed your blog post too. You're tempting me but I'm such a scaredy cat for anything a bit different. I should Just Do It. At the very least I shall move it to my wish list.
2/11/13 0:47 AM
Absolutely fabulous in every way!
2/11/13 0:50 AM
This looks great on you--and with that lining, it will be so warm! New hair cut? Looks good!
2/11/13 0:59 AM
That inside out photo makes it look like a reversible vest. Totally awesome. Luv it.
2/11/13 3:41 AM
I have been watching for reviews of this one. Great plan to leave the sleeves off. Looks terrific.
2/11/13 5:40 AM
Wonderful! Every tweak was an artistic improvement. You have taken this interesting, fabulous design and made it even more so.
2/11/13 8:56 AM
Wonderful! Every tweak was an artistic improvement. You have taken this interesting, fabulous design and made it even more so.
2/11/13 8:56 AM
Another winner for you!
2/11/13 11:17 AM
Wow, that is a great looking vest! I am so impressed by your silk screening, using a matching colour base material looks much better than the envelope pic with the zipper standing out like a sore thumb. The whole thing looks very flattering on you and I love your new hairstyle too.
2/11/13 2:57 PM
This looks fantastic! Love your fabric and the silkscreen embellishment. Very cool.
2/11/13 6:31 PM
Love the stripe detail!
2/12/13 9:53 AM