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Burda Plus Fashion Magazine: 01-2013-433 (Raglan sleeved woven tee) - Type:Tops    printable version
Viewed 203 times
Review rated Very Helpful by 3 people   
Reviewed by:westmoon
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About westmoonstar
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since: 9/7/11
Reviews written: 20
Sewing skills:Advanced Beginner
Favored by: 4 people
patterns reviewed: 20
Bio: more...
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Posted on:2/16/13 3:38 PM
Pattern Size:Plus-Sized 
Project Photo:photo
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More Info provided by westmoon

Pattern Rating:Easy & Great for Beginners
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Fabric:Polyester Georgette  [See other projects in this fabric]
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Pattern Description: From the magazine:

Top -- "... [this top] looks simply terrific with its wide round neckline and short raglan sleeves."

Pattern Sizing: Burda sizes 44-52. I used a 44.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, remarkably similar except for a couple of minor changes detailed below.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, very straightforward. Burda may sometimes be as clear as mud as far as instructions are concerned but I will say this for them: their difficulty rating is spot on. This was rated a 1.5 dot pattern and there was nothing complicated about it. There were not many construction steps and they were all described perfectly adequately.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? As I'm in search of simple tops to become TNTs, I liked the simplicity of it, which I thought was well-suited to a variety of prints. I found I disliked the neckline and the length, both of which I adjusted.

Fabric Used: This was, to all intents and purposes, a werable muslin. I used a polyester georgette in an abstract print in a mix of blues, greys and purples. I have to admit I bought this before I really knew what I was buying, fabric wise, and I've kind of regretted it ever since. Overall, I prefer natural fibres, but I don't hate it. My major concern was not ending up with a spirally bit of the pattern over my bust! I bound it with the remains of a pack of navy satin bias tape and this turned out not to be my best idea as it's too stiff and heavy for the georgette. I didn't get the best finish on the binding because of this.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: It's not obvious from the sample in the magazine, but the top was originally designed as tunic length. I don't generally wear a lot of tunic-length tops, so I therefore took about 13cm (~5") off the total length. I added neck darts (belatedly, which meant unpicking the binding on the neckline, ugh) and reshaped the neckline in order to get a more flattering cut. I also added a small width adjustment across the back.

I will always need an FBA in everything. I had never done an FBA on a raglan top before and in my wanderings around the internet in search of information I found several vintage patterns that positioned a dart coming from the shoulder seam in raglan style tops. For some reason this really appealed to me and I decided to give it a go. In this fabric with the swirling abstract print, the dart is nearly invisible irrespective of where it is positioned. Although I really like the shaping this dart gives me, I probably would default back to a regular bust dart if I were using a fabric where it would be very visible, like the shiny satin in the sample in the magazine. Finally, my fabric shredded horribly and is semi-opaque at best, so I did french seams throughout, and overlocked it before folding up a tiny hem.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know whether I will sew it again. I was auditioning it as a possible TNT. I do like some things about it very much, especially how quickly and easily I was able to make this top. However, there were some small fit issues that I need to fix before making it again, manly to do with the sleeve. Perhaps more of a killer though is that I'm not totally convinced this is the most flattering style for me. I'll wear it, but whether I want more than one is a different question. As far as recommending it to others, this is one of those "if you already have the magazine..." patterns. I don't think it's a pattern to make people rush to find their own copy, but if you have it already, it's a well-drafted, easy pattern that will produce a top in very little time.

Conclusion: I like this top, but I don't LOVE this top. I'm glad I made up this wearable muslin rather than using more beloved fabric on it.

More information and photos on my blog.
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3 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Renren said...
Yes, I find Burda's difficulty rating is usually right on the mark. Nice top but I see you will still be searching for that elusive TNT top pattern. Good luck!
2/16/13 3:48 PM
Irene Q said...
Thanks for the great review - this caught my eye, too!
2/17/13 11:32 AM
GermanKleinigkeit said...
I made this top, too. And I added bust darts, too. I found it difficult to find the right position for them, because it's a raglan top. They turned out the wrong place and I had to correct their position for the final version. Mine are coming out of the waist (sort of, there's no waist in this top, it's pretty straight). It's very comfortable, great for summer I think. I like your version!
2/24/13 3:06 PM
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