Pattern Description:
Fitted, unlined jacket has collar, collar band, yokes (no shoulder seams), seam detail with trim insertion, side front pockets, two-piece sleeves with slit, concealed front button closing with placket, and saddle stitching.
Pattern Sizing:
Misses 6-22. I made roughly a size 12.
Fabric Used:
Rayon/poly crepe from Fabric Mart's brick and mortar store. This fabric has lots of drape and is relatively heavy for the fabric thickness. I made this as a wearable muslin to see if the pattern would work up in a nice linen or not.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
This pattern is written to have self-fabric decorative binding/piping in most of the garment seams. I did not have enough fabric for this, and my crepe was thick enough that it would have made the seams excessively stiff and bulky. I omitted the binding and made run and fell seams with topstitching instead.
I lengthened the sleeves a bit, and tapered from a 12 to a 14 at the lower hems. I also chose to topstitch around the entire buttonhole placket instead of using a few tailor's tacks, because the weight of my fabric pulled the placket down too much otherwise. I served the edges of the inside facing and armscye for a lightweight finish.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Mostly, although there were a few details of the placket and pocket that were not entirely clear from the instructions, but that I was able to figure out by fussing around a little bit.
The front placket is lined with a contrast fabric. I tried to dye a bit of white ambiance rayon lining, but couldn't get a good color match, so I ended up using a bit of a quilting fat quarter from my stash. Here is the placket with buttons: placket.
Because the jacket is unlined, they give instructions for covering the shoulder pads using the contrast material. I made thin shoulder pads from some hair canvas and cotton batting: shoulder pads
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the lines of this jacket - there are separate shoulder yokes and multiple front and side pieces to allow many opportunities for fit. The option of using decorative binding is nice, but I think they should publish the yardages for omitting this on the back of the pattern, as you can use a lot less fabric without the gigantic binding bias piece.
The front pocket construction was a bit fussy and weird, and the pockets are on the heavy side for my choice of fabric. They would probably work better in a lighter and crisper fabric.
The front collar is slightly odd, you can see on the pattern envelope photo that there are slight drag lines on the model garment at the top of the placket where the collar folds back. I am not quite sure what is going on in this photo of the back, I think the collar wasn't folded down correctly, because it doesn't usually look like that at the neckline.
eta: For a fitted jacket, the armscye is cut a bit on the low side. The jacket as sewn is only semi-fitted on me above the waist, so I can move my arms, but they pull on the side seams. If you cut this jacket to be more fitted on top, you might want to compare the armscye cut to that of another fitted jacket pattern that has a cut that you know you like, and adjust this pattern accordingly. My shoulder pads are about the 1/4" thickness required by the pattern, so the low armscye isn't due to a difference in shoulder pad thickness.
I should note that this pattern is not recommended for my body type (pear), only for hourglass and triangle. I am not quite sure why, and I think that this is a better pattern for pear than for triangle, with the high-ish neckline this might not be the best choice for someone who is well-endowed on top.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew this again in a lighter crisper linen, or with the decorative seam treatment in dupioni. I would not recommend this to a beginner, but someone with intermediate skill and some experience with jackets should have no problems. |
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Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
I did not even notice that pattern, but I can see that it has some interesting lines and I appreciate your thorough and informative review. Your skills are excellent and the jacket looks great.
2/17/13 4:37 PM
I didn't look twice at this pattern. Your version looks so much nicer than the pattern photo. I really like it.
2/17/13 5:07 PM
An intriguing pattern. Thanks for another detailed and useful review.
2/17/13 5:28 PM
Beautifully made, gorgeous work. I respectfully suggest perhaps it is too big a size on you, as my eye sees it. I love the color. Again, lovely, lovely work.
2/17/13 5:55 PM
Very nice work - your jacket is so perfect and looks great on you
2/17/13 5:59 PM
Wow, that looks gorgeous on you! Very classy, and the fit is just right.
2/17/13 6:27 PM
I haven't noticed the pattern either, but I love your jacket and its great lines.
2/17/13 6:36 PM
Thanks all! I didn't notice this pattern for a while either, I think because Vogue photographed it in white you so can't see the lines/detailing that are the best part of the jacket. SavageCoco, yes, it is only semi-fitted on me above the waist, but I prefer a bit of extra wearing ease in jackets. If I sew it again, I might take it in a bit at the shoulder, where it is causing slight drag lines.
2/17/13 6:57 PM
This is a lovely jacket, both made and on you. Nice job, and I love the placket fabric.
2/18/13 7:27 AM
Very nice!
2/18/13 8:02 AM
Beautiful results and very flattering style on you. Thank you for the review.
2/18/13 11:05 PM