StyleArc: Jilly Jean (Jilly Jean)  - Type:Pants  | | Viewed 356 times
| 5 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 14 people | | Reviewed by: | JillyBe | 
| About JillyBe | | CA USA | | Member since: 1/20/10 | | Reviews written: 71 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 48 people | | patterns reviewed: 58 | | Bio: more... |
| | Posted on: | 2/24/13 9:39 PM | | Last Updated: | 2/24/13 10:50 PM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | 
StyleArc Pattern Info | | Pattern Rating: | Recommend, with Modifications | | | | Fabric: | Denim [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on  to add a link |
| Pattern Description: 5 pocket jeans pattern with straight legs and a choice of curved or straight waistband.
Pattern Sizing: As with all Style Arc patterns, there is 1 size per envelope. You choose your size based on your measurements, and if you have any questions, Chloe and the S.A. gang are very helpful!
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Well, their slim curvy model drawing doesn't look a thing like me, but my jeans look just like the line drawing, so no and yes 
Were the instructions easy to follow? That would be a "No." S.A. patterns are made to "industry" standards, which means that the fit tends to be more like a real body than many patterns, but the instructions are for people who already know what they're doing, so are minimal. Very minimal. I can not recommend this pattern to someone who has never made jeans before, but if you have, and already know how to construct jeans, or have a good set of instructions from somewhere else, then definitely go for it!
I read through the S.A. instructions, but ended up using them only minimally, so I'm not going to go into a lot of construction details in this review, since I used my own set of (very detailed!) instructions when I made my first pair of jeans (Jalie). If you're interested, those instructions are in these 4 posts on my blog 
I did do a tutorial detailing the Jilly Jean front pocket construction, since some reviewers said they didn't understand the S.A. instructions at all. I stalwartly forged my way through them lol! That post is here: Front Pocket Tutorial This is a case of pictures being worth 1000 words! I do like their pocket method, which involves a one-piece pocket bag, folded over - very easy to do once you understand the process.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Likes: The S.A. pants patterns have some sort of magic in their fit! These jeans are no exception. I like that the leg seams are pretty well centered down the leg, both on the outer leg and inner leg. I like that you have a choice between a curved or straight waistband (I used the curved version). I like the coin pocket. I like the way they construct the front pockets (as mentioned and linked above)
Dislikes: The zipper opening is right off the fly in the center front - I much prefer the classic offset zipper in most jeans. I used a cut-on fly on the jeans front (as in the Jalie pattern), so I can't really speak to the zipper and fly construction in the Jilly Jeans, since I didn't refer to it at all. I didn't like the size of the back yoke - it seemed too "tall" to me, which meant that the back pockets sit a bit lower than I would like. There is no mention of some little details like rivets, but I guess you're just supposed to figure out on your own whether or not you want them.
Fabric Used: Stretch denim, 9.4 oz, with 2% lycra. I had issues with these jeans because of this fabric - no fault of the pattern whatsoever, but I just like a beefier denim in my jeans, and I definitely learned a lesson about denim choice by using this fabric!
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I added darts to the back yoke and the waistband (at the pattern level, not in the fabric), and also tapered the CB seam, to eliminate the dreaded "gaposis". I think my butt is full and wide at the bottom, but I have a narrow waist in back....I'm slowly learning that this is a pants issue that I need to address with nearly every pair I sew!
I also lowered the front by about 1/2", tapering to nothing at the side seams. This involved making slight alterations in all of the front pocket pieces as well. With the lowered front, the pants sit very comfortably at my waist.
I adjusted the position of the back pockets, (based on the muslin I made) but I shouldn't have. The difference in fabrics between my muslin and the final jeans really made a difference in where the pockets sat! See lesson above about the difference in denims!
I used a cut-on fly, so my zipper is very different that the Jilly Jean pattern.
Most of my changes had to do only with the construction process; all things considered, the fit was really very good, which I think is pretty incredible for a pair of jeans - yay!
I detailed the differences between the Jalie Jeans and the Jilly Jean here:
Jilly vs. Jalie
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will definitely sew it again, and I would recommend it, with the caveat that you may need to follow instructions from elsewhere!
Conclusion: I want to make another pair that uses most of the S.A. pattern elements, but a few more touches from the Jalie Jeans, and a bit more tweaking. And DEFINITELY a beefier denim! I think that this would be the basis of my perfect jeans.
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6 Comments
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Looks like you got a great fit w/both. Sorry about the issue w/denim wt in Jillies but the dark wash looks very nice. Thanks for the comparison & pocket tutorial which I loved!
2/24/13 9:52 PM
Great looking jeans, very profesional. Your hybrid is sure to be a winner. I have made these but am get to review them. Due to the lack of detailed instructions I used fitting methods from Peggy Sagers videos and followed construction from an angelakane.com sewalong tutorial that may be of use to others contemplating this pattern.
2/24/13 10:31 PM
Thanks for the detailed review. Nice to see the comparison between patterns.
2/25/13 6:37 AM
Great job, and very complete review! Thanks so much for reminding me that I can follow your tutorials when I decide to tackle jeans. Your SA look great, as do the Jalies.
2/25/13 9:37 AM
Thank you for sharing your great review! Love your side by side comparison!
3/2/13 0:07 AM
Thank you for your review I am finishing my pair of jeans Jilly and your advice have been very helpul !!!
4/13/13 4:35 PM