BurdaStyle Magazine: 02-2013-114 (Dress Top) - Type:Dresses  | | Viewed 284 times
| 1 more reviews | Review rated Very Helpful by 13 people | | Reviewed by: | grays08 | 
 | About grays08 | | IL USA | | Member since: 9/13/11 | | Reviews written: 55 | | Sewing skills:Intermediate | | Favored by: 12 people | | patterns reviewed: 55 | | Bio: more... | | | Posted on: | 3/11/13 10:32 AM | | Last Updated: | 3/11/13 11:41 AM | | Project Photo: |  | | Pattern Photo: | More Info provided by grays08 | | Pattern Rating: | Highly Recommend | | NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue | | | | Fabric: | Rayon-Lycra Knit [See other projects in this fabric] | | Related Links | Click on to add a link |
| Pattern Description:
Women's dress sewing pattern available for download. This is a knee-length jersey dress with a draped, low-cut neckline and fitted, gathered bodice. Dress uses front/back combination facing pieces on the inside but is unlined. There is an alternate version of this pattern for a long-sleeved top (113).
Pattern Sizing:
36, 38, 40, 42, 44. I made a size 40 for a 36" bust, and this was perfect. This is a form-fitting top/dress in the bodice area so Burda bust sizing is accurate for this.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Close-up of bodice detail Picture of back Straight front picture
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, assuming you know the following:
- the "darts" or "dart" referred to are the area at the top middle of piece 21 (front) where it V's. The V is one giant dart that you sew on each side.
- that you are familar with sewing up combination facings and/or know that you must sew both sides of the armhole BEFORE the shoulder seams and only sew up to 2cm on either side of the shoulders initially as instructed
- that you sew the facing to the seam allowance at the bottom of the V so it keeps the gathered fold down from pulling the facing outward
- that you mark the actual seam line convergence of the top middle V on the front piece on the fabric, and you clearly mark the fold line as you will use this repeatedly
- if you print out the instructions from the website, that you eliminate the three paragraphs below the first one but start up again at "Neck edge, armhole edges, and shoulder seams:" - Burda made a mistake when posting this to their website and included the instructions for top 113 beyond just the front which is the only thing in common since you have to do it differently due to the sleeveless variation. The instructions are correct in the magazine however I made the mistake of printing them off so I could make notes as I went along and found this mistake out the hard way as I sewed up my facings and couldn't turn it out! Ha!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
LIKES -
- I love the "waterfall" element of this dress. In my opinion this is so much sexier than Jalie 2806 that I've sewn up before with the same kind of design element. In fact, I almost didn't sew this one up because I immediately thought of the Jalie pattern and thought this wouldn't be anything that different. Boy I'm glad I sewed this one up!
- The fitted bodice/rib/waist area. It is so figure flattering as it hides the tummy but shows off the bust.
- Provided you don't have "extra" instructions that you erroneously follow, this is fast and easy to sew up
DISLIKES -
- I'm not keen on the facings for this. I think Burda did a good job given the design elements they were working around. They have to stop the facings short of the full bust due to how fitted this is but these hit mid-to-upper breast which is a bit awkward when you are putting on as it wants to catch on your bra and poof out and wrinkle until you adjust it (just see the model picture in the magazine for proof of this as hers does the same thing). The back facings are worse in that they stop at a weird length. I should have extended them down and/or added a lining to the bottom of both facings down to the skirt.
- The back neck edge seems odd at first in that it bows out a tad. I believe this is intentional to allow for ease there since this section is interfaced via the attached facing and therefore cannot stretch. It looks a little odd but is for ease so I understand this, it can just look a bit off at first glance.
- The understitching and tacking to the seam allowances is extremely beneficial however the facings still want to work their way out in places. Understitching is a MUST for the front and back facings on this as well as tacking the facing to the seam allowances - this is what will make or break it how good this looks and holds.
Fabric Used:
A purple large floral rayon/lycra jersey knit from Fabric Mart Fabrics. It tooks 2 1/2 yards for a size 40 with recommended seam allowances. I used a fusible, flex interfacing designed for knits for the facings.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None. I did do some additional hand tacking of the "waterfall" just to help keep the facings from flipping outward. I also "neatened" the lower edge of the facing. No need to stabilize shoulders here because they attach to the fully interfaced facing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I'm absolutely going to sew it again and am about to cut out the long sleeved top version of this (view 113). I was originally worried about it looking too maternity but that's not the case with the wonderful way that Burda fits this throughout the rib/waist area. What a great pattern! I love this dress, and I love the comfort and ease of wearing it. It makes me feel so slim. I plan on wearing this with a knit shrug (soon to be sewn from Vogue 8885) for Easter unless I make something else that wows me more.
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I love it. I don't wear dresses but I think I will sew the top. Thank for the review.
3/11/13 12:12 PM
What a pretty Easter outfit you will have. Hope you have nice weather for wearing it.
3/11/13 4:35 PM
Great review, very helpful for a beautiful dress.
3/11/13 5:47 PM
Absolutely gorgeous fabric. Thanks for the detailed review.
3/11/13 10:14 PM
Beautiful dress. Thank you for the detailed construction notes--this is a great supplement to Burda's instructions.
3/12/13 11:11 AM
Beautiful dress. Very helpful review.
3/12/13 3:36 PM
I love this. It fits great and your fabric is lovely!
3/12/13 8:22 PM
A lovely dress, a great fit and a gorgeous fabric.
3/14/13 7:32 AM
Pretty dress!
3/23/13 6:49 PM
I'm planning to make this dress some time this summer, so I'm really grateful for your useful and detailed review. Your dress looks great!
4/23/13 10:25 AM