What could possibly be difficult about harem pants, right? Well, this pattern very nearly did my head in.
The way Issey Miyake constructs these harem pants, you might as well be working on a rocket ship. Or a rubics cube. Maybe this will be easy for people with a good grip on 3D geometry, but my brain doesn't do that sort of thing. Even after I had already made a muslin and figured out how to put the pattern pieces together, by the time I got around to making the real version a couple of weeks later, it was a head scratching and copious frowning marathon all over again. If you lose the instructions, you may as well throw away the pattern and save yourself a lot of grief. For those who contemplate these pants, hang onto the instructions for dear life, mark all the circles and notches, and my special tip, whatever you do, mark the roll line and the centre front and back with thread.
That said, the pants are a quick and simple sew from a technical point is view, provided you don't go in for the nonsense with the double welt pockets. This style of pant looks a lot better with a long tunic over the top, so nobody will see them anyway. If you must have pockets, do yourself a favour and make patch ones. 
The pattern is quite old and the number has been reused by Vogue, so the pattern photo showing above is of another pattern. It is difficult to see the style lines clearly in the photo because the pants are black, so have a look at the 'More info provided' link just below the pattern picture to see the drawing. Vogue had three pattern pieces (not counting the pockets), front and side, back and other side and waistband. But I am willing to bet that originally front, back and sides were only one giant pattern piece, almost 2m long and 1.5m wide. Since I liked the idea of not having the extra seam, I joined both pattern pieces where the separate pieces would have been sewn together. You need to drop the seam allowances, but it works just fine.
Once you have your one enourmous piece of cut out fabric, or have sewn the two pieces Vogue planned for you together, you find your CF and CB lines, your roll line, say a few prayers to the sewing gods, take a deep breath and somehow wrestle the enormous piece into a semblance of pants. Finishing off the leg hems makes more sense after that. Doing the leg hems first like Vogue wants in the instructions requires a bigger leap of faith than I am prepared to do, but I suppose it will work.
The harem style with the very dropped crotch is not for everyone, but I have worn these pants a lot, as I find them supremely comfortable and I enjoy the look. I used a very light crinkle cotton with a barely noticeable bamboo-like stripe, which emphasises the unusual construction. The fabric is a touch sheer, but with pants that is not the problem it would be with a skirt, especially not with a long top, and I happen to think that the low crotch demands a long tunic for balance anyway. This one is almost to the knee. The tunic is another Lily dress, shortened. I do like the ensemble, it reminds me a bit of a salwar kameez, but without the shawl and with a cowl. |
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Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
Wowzers. Interesting. Very nice review. I have noticed this pattern. For some reason, I am drawn to these types of garments. I like how yours turned out,they are almost like a skirt. Thanks. Very cool.
3/12/13 5:26 AM
Very interesting. Your persistence has paid off and you've ended up with a highly distictive and wearable garment.
3/12/13 6:12 AM
Hello rivergum, your outfit looks wonderful, these pants with this top are a perfect match for a stylish plus easy-going look. I like harempants, because as you said, they are so comfortable (I wear them all the time at home, and some of them outside also). Yours are great! I once ran across this pattern and thought, I don't need this one, because I already have harempants-patterns. But after your review, next time, I'll get it. Thanks for the interesting review. By the way, I haven't got around even thinking of making the interesting top of your other review (for which you so kindly offered help). Please excuse me for first asking and then not getting around to it. Some projects just get stuck in my head only for a while, before they become "real", hope you don't mind, or better, forgive me that. I like your style a lot, just in general, I think I said that already. All the best and always good sewing. :-)
3/12/13 6:41 AM
Your outfits just keep on getting better. Love your style.
3/12/13 7:22 AM
Don't worry, GermanKleinigkeit, we all have a hundred projects in our head that never quite see the light of day. If you saw my stash you would know that I bite off more than I can chew too. :-)
3/12/13 3:45 PM
Great review, the pattern instructions were worth wrestling with
3/12/13 5:41 PM
Fabulous look you've got going on there. Love it all. Great work
3/12/13 9:14 PM
Great info but would really help if the relevant pattern number was quoted -- this pattern is for a dress....and I would really like to see the 'rubik's cube' pants pattern!!
3/13/13 0:20 AM
Sorry, Sar sews, but as I mentioned in the review, the pattern number has been reused by Vogue, hence the pic of the dress. This seems to pop up automatically and I can't find any way to get rid of it. If you click on the 'more info' link below the wrong picture you will see what the pants look like.
3/13/13 0:50 AM
Your pants look great and I love how you've styled them. I've made two pairs of these pants and have a third pair half finished. It doesn't matter how many times I've made them, I always get confused. I have to lay them out on the floor and fold them with the pattern piece lain on top to make sure I'm pinning them together correctly. But I love them so much I haven' let that stop me. Thanks for the review. It makes me want to finish up that last pair and maybe even cut another one.
3/13/13 1:33 AM
Hi RIVERGUM: you never cease to amaze me. I bought this pattern years ago for the top, never thought about the pants. You make them look like something one should make even as short as I am. Are you very tall. I never thought someone only 5ft 4in. could get away with these. Thanks for a wonderful review. Your top is also really very chic and smart looking.
3/13/13 2:36 AM
Just fabulous! Great pattern - great execution. Looks wonderful on you.
3/13/13 8:45 AM
WoW!!! Love those pants. Excellent review in that it explains what to do & have no oops moments thanks
4/28/13 8:12 AM
Have you made any of the other parts of this pattern? I got a lot of wear out of the two tunics I made and the jacket was an interesting piece as well.
5/2/13 10:09 AM