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Lekala Patterns: 4161 (Lekala) - Type:Tops    printable version
Viewed 244 times 1 more reviews
Review rated Very Helpful by 5 people   
Reviewed by:rutaliet
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About rutalietstar
IL USA
Member since: 8/10/08
Reviews written: 33
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 12 people
patterns reviewed: 33
Bio: more...
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Posted on:3/16/13 10:59 AM
Last Updated:3/17/13 6:17 PM
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Pattern Info provided by rutaliet

Pattern Rating:Highly Recommend
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I made two versions of this pattern. The first was to test the pattern (blue version) and the second (black version) was with tweaks to improve it.

SIZING: The nice thing about Lekala patterns is that they are custom sized based on the measurements you enter when ordering. I really like not having to grade between sizes on a pattern. So far, every Lekala pattern I have made fits quite well.

INSTRUCTIONS: Instructions are rudimentary and are based on a translation from Russian, so some of the wording is confusing.There are no illustrations. Basically, I only use the PDF instructions for the sequence of construction. The nice thing about the Lekala web site is that you can preview the instructions for the pattern before you buy, so if you don't feel comfortable with them, you don't have to buy the pattern.

NOTE: Lekala has a GREATLY improved web site and ordering method. The links to the PDF instructions are already translated to English. LEKALA

FABRIC:
Version 1: acrylic/lycra spongy 2-way stretch - probably could make a bathing suit out of this very stretchy fabric. Icky fabric, but I do like the color.
Version 2: cotton/poly interlock

VERSIONS:

Version 1:
I made the first version exactly as drafted. I did not add any hem allowances. I believe there is a hem allowance included on the pattern for the sleeves but not for the bottom hem. I turned up only 1/2" for both the sleeves and hem.

I was surprised about how tight the garment turned out. From the line drawing, I thought this would be more of an a-line top. Trying to determine the intended fit for Lekala patterns can be a bit of a challenge since most of the time there is only a line drawing. The entire lower half of the top has a significant negative ease - about 10cm. Since the patterns don't include a calibration area I thought that perhaps there was a scaling issue when I printed out the pattern, so I sent an inquiry to verify the intended fit of the garment. Natalia did confirm the negative ease.

Because of the overall snug fit, I thought that the drawstring was basically just decorative. At first, I made the casing but did not insert a drawstring and wore the garment. What I found by wearing it was that, because of the weight of the hood and the wide neckline, the garment started riding up over my bust (which is not large). So, for me, the drawstring keeps the seam under my bust.

I did not care for the finish of the front bodice edges . The pattern has a 1" extension on the front edges, below the hood that you just fold under and top stitch. Because of the wide neckline and the weight of the hood, the front edges of the garment have a tendency to fold back so you can see the wrong side of the garment and the raw edges of the extension.

Important construction note: the casing for the drawstring is created from the 1" bodice seam allowance. Both the bodice seam and the seam that closes the casing needs to be able to stretch so you can get the garment on. Therefore, you must use some form of stretch stitch. I used a narrow coverstitch to stitch both seams.

Version 2:
Changes I made for the next version:

I substituted the lower half of the pattern below the waist with Jalie 3132 since I really liked the fit of that pattern. This time there was no negative ease and the length allowed me to make a nice generous hem.

Flared the ends of the sleeves a little bit. Because of the wide and low neckline, this is definitely a layering top so the flared sleeve works better over a long sleeved T-shirt. Also, I lengthened the sleeves to allow for a bigger hem.

The biggest change I made was to eliminate the front facing extension. Instead I doubled up the fronts. I attached the hood and then stitched on the second set of fronts to the front edge to face and fully line the fronts. This is so much cleaner and easier, I think.


LIKES:

  • The style

  • The fit

  • The pattern pieces all fit together well

  • There is a back center seam which allows for easy sway back adjustment. The back seam in the bodice can easily be eliminated. BACK VIEW

  • It's great that Lekala gives you the option to add 1/4" seam allowances to the pattern when ordering (which I always choose) and let's you specify your paper size.

  • The customer service - any time I send an email inquiry to Lekala, I always get a reponse from Natalia.



DISLIKES:

  • Since I use the MyLabel software extensively, I am used to and really don't mind printing and taping patterns, as long as a good alignment method is included. Lekala patterns are, by far, the worst I have encountered in terms of alignment. Not impossible - but not easy.




SUMMARY:This is now a TNT pattern for me now. I have been wearing both versions extensively and have received many positive comments. It is a very easy and quick pattern to stitch up. I am thinking about a dress version and another one with some kind of pockets.
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2 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Mazzygirl said...
love both versions. really nice.
3/16/13 8:07 PM
galadriel45 said...
I just ordered a pattern from Lekala. I received the instructions, but not the pattern. Do I need to wait for the pattern since it is custom sized?
3/17/13 6:25 PM
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