|Pattern Description: Top with dolman short sleeves, has yoke that closes with buttons in the back and vertical pleats on front.|
Pattern Sizing: Huge, LOL. They say it's for sizes 36-44. After measuring the pattern pieces I decided to cut 36 at bust and waist, and 40 at hem (I would normally need 40-44-44 in the same order!!). Still, for the yoke I used the size that I normally cut at the shoulders, 40. You'd think that there's a big difference of sizes between yoke (40) and the top of the bodice (36), but even like that, there was enough fabric in the bodice that resulted in nice gathers. Anyway, there are only a few milimeters between sizes at yoke, so I don't think it really makes a difference. I also used the length of the size 36, and I am tall. I could tell only from looking at the tech drawing that it was drafted with a lot of ease, and I was right.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it did.
Were the instructions easy to follow? They made sense for the most part. That I didn't agree with some of their treatments is another story . There is one thing that I found confusing: they tell you to gather at front neckline X cm, instead you have to divide that X cm by 2 as you are gathering the front neckline in two different places and what they give you there is the total.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the front pleats first of all, and I think that them combined with the yoke give a romantic look. Or that was how I perceived the look of the model in the magazine, anyway. I didn't like that it was drafted with so much ease, but I was able to avoid that.
Fabric Used: As usual, I don't know exactly what fabric that was. It was a light cotton that I think had something else in it as it was drapey and slightly stretchy widthwise.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Well, beside cutting a much smaller size, there were a few other changes that I made:
* I made a center back seam but the only reason for that was that it helped me to save some fabric: the patterns says it would need 170 cm of fabric for my size, and I only used 110 cm;
* I didn't like how they say to attach the yoke to the body. First of all, the yoke closes at the back with buttons by overlapping at the center back. My understanding was that I had to align the longer edges of the yoke and its facing with the top of the bodice, sew them together and then serge, etc. Truth is, I don't know how else you could attach the yoke to the body because of that overlapping at the back yoke, but I didn't want to have that bulky seam against my skin, and I avoided that by closing the back with button loops instead of buttonholes. This way I could enclose that seam in the yoke facing which, in the end, I attached by stitching in the ditch.
* I wasn't sure if I was going to like the sleeves' length, I was very tempted to cut them shorter. Then I thought to keep both possibilities at hand and make tabs that allowed to keep my sleeves rolled up. Now, looking at the pictures, I think there is a better proportion between the length of the top and the original length of the sleeve.
Another thing was that I found difficult was to mark the vertical pleats on this light fabric that liked to move. You have to mark the pleats foldline AND the stitching line, on both front halves, which can result in a confusion of lines. Instead, I thread traced only the foldlines while my fabric was still folded, using loop stitches. This way I've got them equally spaced on both halves of the front, and kept their width consistent. I pressed the pleats' folds using the loop threads as guides, and then I stitched the pleats using as a guide the edge of a regular zigzag foot that has exactly 7mm of width between the centered needle and the edge. That's a good foot, as my impression is that Burda likes a lot this width of 7 mm for topstitiching, etc. This is how the pleats looked after I finished sewing them. Those are the ends of the thread loops that marked the fold of the pleats
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I am considering sewing one for my mom. This top requires almost no fitting, which is an advantage because she lives away and I shouldn't worry about the fit. I would recommend it to others if they liked the style, but take into consideration the sizing!
Conclusion: This is one of those garments published by Burda that looks like a sack, that everybody comments in discontent, but I don't know why, I was attracted to this one. Maybe it was the picture in the magazine, maybe it was those details that I thought looked romantic, but here I am, wearing my own sack, LOL! And I think that it looks different when worn with a pant (in this picture you can see the full length of the sleeves), or with a skirt - the top is un-tucked and the sleeves are rolled up, or with another skirt tucked in.
Here it is seen from the back, untucked.