Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|BurdaStyle Magazine: 02-2011-122B (Safari Short) - Type:Shorts |
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Review rated Very Helpful
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|About grays08 |
|Member since: 9/13/11 |
|Reviews written: 87|
|Favored by: 28 people|
|patterns reviewed: 86|
|Posted on:||6/25/13 11:46 AM |
|Last Updated:||6/25/13 11:54 AM|
More Info provided by grays08
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue|
|Fabric:||Cotton Sateen [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|UPDATED 06/28/2013 - Burda has republished pattern instructions to correct issues! Updated with date in review in areas affected (both positively and adversely).|
For view B of pattern 122 - "Safari" flat front short with two front slanted welt pockets (lined, generous sized pockets inside), one small welt pocket in right back and back darts. Shorts have a fly-front zipper, belt carriers, contoured waistband and are straight legged.
Technical Pattern Drawing
Pattern is currently downloadable and was featured in the February 2011 BurdaStyle magazine. The downloadable version also includes the other variations of this pattern which includes a couple versions of pants and a slightly shorter short. I ended up downloading this pattern as I didn't have this particular Burda issue.
36, 38, 40, 42, 44. I made a size 40 for a 39" hip/30" waist, and this fit me perfectly with my standard adjustments for full/athletic thigh.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I added an additional welt on the back left, left off the belt carriers and changed some of the topstitching, but they look identical to the picture provided online for view B.
Back of Shorts
Front showing pockets and leg width better
Shorts laying flat
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes if you're used to Burda. My biggest problem was that I downloaded this only to find that I was given less than what you would receive in the magazine for instructions (since corrected by Burda). In particular the instructions were completely blank for Step 2 which was the pattern layout section. This wouldn't be a huge deal as most of the grainlines are on the pattern pieces except this is also what tells you which pieces to interface. I've sewn enough Burda to know what they interface on pants so I knew to interface the outer waistband pieces, inside welt locations as well as welts themselves. I also chose to interface the fly extension. 6/23/13 - Burda has finally responded to my complaint and republished the pattern instructions online which corrects this entire issue - hooray!
Another problem at least with the downloadable instructions for me on this pattern was Step 5 incorrectly identified this section as being for the front welt pockets, and it's actually the instructions for the back welt pocket since Step 3 covers the front pockets. 06/28/13 - Burda has since corrected this issue although it should be noted, in the rework, they also eliminated some necessary instructions on how to do the back welts but follow the same process as for the front as you will be in good shape. They have now updated this to also use a 3/8"/1 cm welt (previously 1/4"/7mm).
I would caution that you not do as Burda instructs up front and iron on your interfacing on the back pieces prior to doing the back darts. The back darts feed right into this area so you would have bulky interfacing overlapping at the bottom point of your dart......yikes! Luckily I caught myself and waited until after I sewed the back darts to iron on my interfacing to the welt locations which worked much better since the dart points could be sharp and lay nicely underneath the interfacing.
I would strongly recommend to reinforce your welts on the sides as RTW does with this pattern since the welts are your front pockets (i.e. heavier usage). I used a zig-zag stitch of 0.6 length, 1.5 width to sew along the sides of them when I was done from the right side, and this worked well and looked sharp. I did this in the topstitching step since it was convenient to do at that time.
Keep in mind on the left underlap piece that you have to add seam allowances to this piece when cutting as it's not included. I noticed at least one person on BurdaStyle.com that didn't do this and was complaining it wasn't large enough - it is plenty big, you just have to add the SA to all sides as Burda indicates by not saying "incl. allowance". Also keep in mind that as with all Burda patterns, they expect you to make adjustments for your size on the fly center front and also the welt pockets on the front. You just keep the same distance ratio as what you see with size 36 and adapt/move it - it works well but you have to remember to do this for good results.
I did not use the Burda instructions for the zipper (used Sandra Betzina's fly front zip method) so I can't comment on it.
I would like to point out that the back welt pocket uses a narrow welt, 1/4"/7 mm (06/28/13 - Burda updated this to now have the back pocket to use a 3/8"/1 cm welt.). It is not a big deal, just helpful to know in case you want to make this larger at cutting time (welt piece is sized accordingly). I like the narrow rear welt, but it threw me at first since I'm just not used to seeing it a whole lot in RTW. The front welts are 3/8"/1 cm which works well.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- Very sharp looking short with the welts and well drafted in how it lays in the front with the pockets
- Love that there's no pleats, darts or other unflattering details on the front pieces, even the pockets are aligned so that they lie nicely with the hips, gotta love that.
- Takes 1 yard (60") even with the extra length I added and a longer hem (1 5/8")
- The top of the waistband hits me 3" down from the waist measurement point which kind of puts them at a mid-rise I guess. I like the rise as it feels like it covers the hip area but isn't as high-rise as most of the Burda shorts I've tried here recently (like 02-2013-129). I would say this is a more modern rise which I appreciate.
- Belt carriers as drafted/instructed by Burda are just too small to use if you are using any kind of typical bottomweight fabric. Burda tells you to draft the belt carrier a certain size and includes the necessary seam allowances for this piece and then tell you to sew 3/8" from the fold edge after you have folded it in. It makes it impossible after trimming even with all the tricks and tools available for pulling this through, because the fabric is just simply too thick to do this. I have a great tool for using on these tiny seams, but my fabric was mediumweight sateen, and it just wasn't happening so I just abandoned the belt carriers, because, I of course, discovered this AFTER trimming my seam allowance....shame on me. Next time I'll make the seam a tad wider to accomodate the type of fabrics you would be using on shorts, and I should be good to go. I have no idea why Burda would make it this slim unless you were using some thin stuff. It was extremely late, I was trying to finish these up for vacation and so, yeah, the belt carriers went bye-bye since I don't wear a belt....ironically I still didn't finish these in time but oh well, it wasn't the belt carriers fault!
A tan cotton/lycra stretch sateen from Denver Fabrics. It was medium-weight stretch sateen so it made for a great short. I used 100% lightweight cotton for lining the front pocket pieces.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I opted to use a button/buttonhole in lieu of the hook fastener. I just thought it made more sense and would be more durable.
- I added a left back welt pocket. I figured why not since it's already marked on the piece but a bit overboard I suppose as it's not needed.
- I made a 1/2" swayback adjustment to the back pieces which also shortened the darts a tad - this is a typical adjustment for me and not indicative of this pattern
- I added 1 1/4" to the "full thigh area" on the front piece only which for me starts 3" below the crotch line and graded above and below this. I added this to the outer seam only (as this is where my muscle is) so I had to also adjust the back piece by slitting/spreading by 1/4" as the overall side length changed slightly. Again this is a standard adjustment for me and not indicative necessarily of this pattern.
- Because I added some to the hip area and front side in grading for the full thigh, I ended up having to relocate the front pocket welts and redraft the entire pocket and pocket lining pieces in order to keep them in their "true" location per the pattern (which is based on a size 36 so I would have had to move these slightly any way but needed to more with the additional I added to the side). For the pocket and pocket lining, it mainly just meant extending them on the side to match the extension and outer seam changes on the front piece I had made as these have to mirror each other.
- I added 3/4" to the length for view B which gave it a 6" inseam after hemming which I prefer.
- I serged and used Steam-a-Seam to press under the edge of what becomes the bottom inside edge of the waistband before stitching-in-the-ditch on the "right" side.
- I opted not to topstitch the side seams. The shorts were too dressy for that I thought, in a different fabric, maybe. I did add additional topstitching to the entire crotch seam to hold down the seam allowance underneath nicely from the fly bottom to the back waistband since I had sewn and serged close to it to keep it smaller. I reinforced all welts on the sides by zig-zagging them as their "topstitching" to make it like RTW. 06/28/13 - Burda has now completely eliminated the topstitching step in their instructions which I think is a shame. For whatever reason this has now been eliminated from the instructions sheet online for this pattern. Prior instructions said to topstitch side seams, pockets and waistband.
- I didn't add the belt carriers as explained prior. I would have liked to though and think these would look sharp.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Absolutely - this is a really sharp, well drafted pattern for shorts. The welt pockets in the front and back just make this a classy pair of shorts, but I love that I could just add an opening to the front piece, redraft the pocket slightly to make it an integrated hip yoke and have standard pocket shorts in the front if I wanted.
I would highly recommend this pattern to anyone familar with sewing Burda pants/shorts or an advanced sewer but would caution others maybe to proceed with caution and be prepared to get assistance from elsewhere. 06/28/13 - The downloadable version has now been republished by Burda with corrections and some new omissions unfortunately however it is much clearer what to do now and more in-line with the typical magazine instructions.
I will definitely be sewing another pair of these as it makes for a fantastic short! Another perk of downloading this is you get several other options included (the pattern pieces are included with 122 view B) in the price as well (two pants, options 123 - canvas trouser, 124 - leather trouser and a shorter version of this short 122 option A), you just have to download the instructions for them which are available for free from BurdaStyle.com.
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