Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Vogue Patterns: 7608 (Misses' Jeans) - Type:Pants|
Review submitted in 2013 Jeans Contest Contest
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Review rated Helpful
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|About Renren |
|Member since: 7/20/05 |
|Reviews written: 210|
|Favored by: 37 people|
|patterns reviewed: 201|
|Posted on:||6/30/13 6:10 PM |
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
|See other patterns in this category: Pants |
|Fabric:||Denim [See other projects in this fabric]|
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close up back view
topstitching on legs
pocket/coin pocket inside view
inside view of other pocket
topstiched back pocket
close up of pocket/coin pocket
topstitched pockets during construction
4mm plastic template and frixxion pen to draw topstitching line on pocket
pocket template cut apart at stitching line for tracing
making topstitching samples
Coats & Clark metal zipper and snap
From the Pattern Envelope:
MISSES' JEANS Close fitted, straight-legged or boot cut, below ankle pants have contour waistband and yoke back below waistline and carriers, side front pockets and fly front zipper. Optional topstitching design and rivets.
FABRICS: Corduroy, Denim, Stretch Denim and Brushed Cotton Twill. Lining: Cotton Twill.
My envelope contains sizes DEF and I sewed F for the muslin since those measurements most closely matched my measurements. I backed down to an E for the pants. (I'll explain more about this under likes/dislikes.)
The body measurements for F are 43/37.5/45 (in inches). The measurements for E are 40.5/35/42. My waist/hip measurement when I began the project was 42/44 inches. I matched the hips (my 44 to their 45) and decided to use size F. I judged I would have to modify the yoke to take the waist from the pattern's 37.5 to my 42.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
There was a moment of confusion at only two points:
1) The instructions guide you through sewing the pocket/coin pocket to the pocket bag and never mention to do the other pocket, but shortly after the instructions refer to 'pocket bags' indicating both pockets should have been sewn in the previous steps. No problem, I sewed the second pocket once I had scanned ahead in the instructions and couldn't see a problem sewing the 2nd pocket. Just remember when the instructions have you sew the pocket/coin pocket to the bag you should also sew the opposite side pocket and bag.
2) I was running into major problems sewing in the zipper/fly--major because it wasn't working at all! I then decided to do a 'run through' with basting stitches. I paid particular attention to the diagrams and noted that the zipper illustration in one diagram showed the back of the zipper and in the second diagram the front of the zipper was shown--as evidenced by the tab at the top of the zipper. So when you sew the zipper/fly, watch out for that zipper tab in the illustration to help you decide what to do. Then things went together perfectly and quickly. I understand why Sandra Betzina's fly zipper is so often praised. The zipper teeth are set back well under the fly so there's virtually no possibility they will show.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked that the pattern pieces are grouped together on sheets that make sense. For instance the front and back pieces for Pants A are on one sheet; the front and back for Pants B are on one sheet; and all of the common pieces (for A and B) are on a 3rd sheet of paper. I'm used to the pieces being mixed with no apparent reason except maybe to save paper by efficient placement.
There's a whole page on fitting the pants before construction even begins which I found very helpful.
Using cheap muslin fabric I sewed up a muslin straight from size F and then analyzed the fit and chose the alterations I needed (they were the ones I predicted I would need before sewing the muslin). This was a definite 'like.'
I have sewn Sandra Betzina's patterns before and I have not been thrilled although I realize I'm in the minority. However, this time I loved the fit of the muslin right at the outset. It was incredibly close to what I needed fit-wise.
I really found these instructions top notch. The writing was easily understood and I could follow the diagrams.
denim (97/3% cotton/lycra blend)
I used quilting cotton for the pocket bag.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
After beginning with F and finally settling on size E, I still had to work on fitting the crotch curves. Front and back crotch curves were too long but this is typical for me. I measured a pair of Dockers twill pants I own and tried to match the length of those crotch curves on the jeans. I needed to fold out 3/4" from hip to hip (front and back) to match the Docker's crotch curves. I ended up with jeans that rise to the waistline and not the 1" below the waistline that the pants are drafted for. That's okay with me.
I shortened the pants by 3/4"--these pants didn't need to be shortened by 3-5 inches which is typical for me. I also noticed that View B, the boot cut jeans, are shown to be rather short on the envelope cover. I wanted a longer length, so that might also explain why there was minimal shortening needed.
Of more concern was the gathering of fabric at the lower front crotch below the zipper. This disappeared when I went from an F to an E. I guess when I see this in the future I will immediately think maybe I need to go down a size.
The circumferences (waist/hip/thigh/calf) were all fine once I made the correct size selection. I will say that my legs are a little undersized and I typically drop down a size or two in the leg but this time I did not modify the leg circumferences at all and I got what I consider a near-perfect fit. But if you are dealing with thighs or calves that are not undersized, you might want to pay attention to the leg area. There are modifications for larger thighs and calves given in the fitting section. Just be aware that you might not be used to making these changes and you might need them on this pattern. My legs are almost always lost in the billowing legs of Big 4 pattern unless I alter the pant leg, but in this pattern I got the close fit I prefer without it being restrictive.
I had thought I would need to modify the yoke to fit my waist, but I did not. I placed the paper pattern to my waist and realized it was a nearly perfect fit and probably would be perfect due to the lycra content of the denim.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Definitely I would sew it again and I would also recommend it.
These pants fit really well. I look forward to making more pants and I will continue to refine the fit with information I collect as I wear the pants.
I'm really glad this contest was offered because without it I doubt I would have attempted jeans for quite some time.
2 3/8 yds + 3/8 lining + 1/2 yd fusible interfacing = 3.25 yds.
This is my 11th entry in the FSC 2013 and my entry in the June Jeans Contest.
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