Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Self Drafted Pattern: 104880-1003 (Seafoam sage side stripe jeans) - Type:Pants|
Review submitted in 2013 Jeans Contest Contest
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|Reviewed by:||Elizabeth made this|
|About Elizabeth made this |
|Member since: 8/8/07 |
|Reviews written: 97|
|Favored by: 16 people|
|patterns reviewed: 95|
|Posted on:||6/30/13 5:42 PM |
|Last Updated:||7/1/13 6:33 PM|
|Pattern Rating:||Great Wardrobe Builder |
|Fabric:||Stretch Denim [See other projects in this fabric]|
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Pattern Description: straight leg jeans with side seam zippers and contrast white and seafoam side panels
Pattern Sizing:BWOF petite 18
What was your process for creating these jeans?My inspiration for these jeans were these Rag and Bone "The Racer" jeans. But I had tried on a pair of pale green jeans at LOFT in the spring and I couldn't get the idea of green jeans out of my head.
I thought originally I'd just skinny up the legs on my Jalie 2908s and be done, but I discovered a pretty big fit issue that I needed to fix. The side seams were hanging crooked, and since my side seams were going to be embellished with vertical stripes, I had to go back to square one.
The side seams were a little straighter in these BWOF 8-2008-122 jeans, so I started with that pattern as a base. I originally thought that my front thigh was pulling the side seam backwards (indeed I carry all my weight in my thighs). I cut a muslin with a front 2 sizes larger and then did a full front thigh adjustment, but it just didn't seem right to be adding that much fabric. How on earth did I fit into the other pair in the first place? It didn't make sense. So I asked my friend Linda for help and we spent an entire Saturday figuring out the deal. It turns out I needed a wedge of extra length across my bum across the CB seam--about 1.25", tapering to nothing at the side seams. It was miraculous, but that released the tension at the side seam and it was hanging straight again.
Since the BWOF pattern has a back welt, darts and angled front pockets, I added a back yoke, using my Jalie pattern as a guide for drafting the yoke. I also borrowed the back pockets from the Jalie jeans. I changed the front pockets into jeans style pockets instead of the angled pockets they were originally. They are a hybrid of Vogue 1034 and my Jalies. The pockets are a little wider than my Jalies but not quite as wide as the Vogue jeans. The coin pocket is just a little rectangle of denim, all pressed under and topstitched.
front and coin pockets
In the muslin process, it occurred to me that the vertical stripes were an optical illusion on the inspiration pair. There's no way that you can just sew straight stripes on at the side seam and have them hang straight because your hip is curved. So to draft the panels, I made strips 1.5" + SA wide down the hip, following the curve into the calf area 11.125" above the hem. They look like little elbows, but I was amazed to find out that indeed they did hang straight when sewn.
I could not use my denim as the contrast because it would've been too bulky for my machine, so I bought some plain white broadcloth and after extensive swatching, I used a weak dye solution (1/16 tsp RIT kelly green and 1/16 tsp RIT teal in 1 cup water) to come up with the seafoam color I used for the middle stripes. To sew them, I seamed the front two, pressed the raw edges under. Then I hand basted them into place along the sides and tops and topstitched the pressed edges. From there, the pieces are treated as one with the fronts and backs.
My process for the side seam zippers was pretty similar to this tutorial by Pattern Runway.
The rivets are from Cawaiiland on Etsy. I've used them in the past and I like their rivets, and they give you enough to last for a really really long time for not a lot of money.
Were the instructions easy to follow? For the basic construction, I referred to Jalie 2908 because their instructions are so well written, particularly on the pockets. I differed in the instructions on the pockets only in that I french seamed the pocket bottoms.
I used Sandra Betzina's fly front instructions as I always do. I even managed to cut one of the vintage girls into my fly facing. She's admiring my zip.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I originally was drawn to the side contrast panels on the inspiration jeans, and I'm rather fond of decorative zippers on jeans. My version is different given that I used sage green denim instead of blue, and my legs are more of a straight leg than skinny.
Fabric Used:Sage green stretch bull denim and broadcloth for the side panels. The pocket fabric and fly facing is a print of vintage McCall's pattern girls in their sweet dresses that I got from Hancock's eons ago.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?One pair of these jeans is more than enough. I would recommend to others looking at your basic jeans pattern and seeing what you can add to it. With a little bit of tweaking, you can really end up with something totally different and fun.
Conclusion: I love being able to get an idea and be able to see it realized. Sewing is so much fun. Some more pictures on my blog.
~E Made This
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