|Pattern Description: |
Jacket with wide lapels, high collar stand (one piece with collar), dropped shoulders, in a shorter motorcycle jacket style or a knee-length version with belt.
There wasn't a drawing of the pattern pieces, but this kind of gives you an idea of the pieces for View B:
Sizes 8 to 20.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
The silhouette did, but I left off the details such as the zipper, tabs at waist and chest flaps ... pretty much everything -- ha!
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions were thorough, and I did pay attention to them. Just be sure you look at your actual view, because the one time I didn't, I managed to screw up the construction of the front darts, so I had to pick that out and start over again.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I'll just start out with a real PET PEEVE of mine, and that is when you don't get separate pattern pieces for the separate views. We're paying for these patterns, and they should be COMPLETE. In this case, the front and back pattern pieces for both views were the same, so you had to cut off the bottom of View A to make View B. If you want to later make View A, you're going to have to tape the pieces back together. Either that, or you would have to trace off View B in the first place. That's why I buy the pattern instead of the magazine, so I don't have to TRACE. :o)
I liked the overall shape of the jacket and the fact that it has a somewhat looser fit through the upper torso, with those dropped shoulders. I can't say as I'm real crazy about the way the dropped shoulders FEEL, though -- ha! I guess I need to get back into the '80s vibe!
The back of the jacket is shorter than I anticipated, but this is plain and simple an oversight on my part, since the back length is clearly marked on the back of the pattern. For me, this length is unflattering, as it stops just shorter of my W-I-D-E B-U-T-T, OKAY? :o)) If I make this again, I'll lengthen the back (which will require some adjustments to the angle at the side front, as well, I suspect). I don't know, I'll have to think that through.
I liked the details of the tabbed waist the chest pocket flaps, but I knew they wouldn't be flattering on me, so I left them off.
I tend not to like details that appear to be add-ons (bordering on afterthoughts), as opposed to details that are fully integrated into the design. I know these zippers placed on the outside of the garment are in right now, but I don't care for that detail for myself, so I didn't use the zipper. In fact, I don't have any closure on there at all right now. I might add a single button at the waist, or I might just leave it open and use a pin there if I feel like it.
I really liked the collar, which is one of the things that led me to buy the pattern in the first place. This is the collar piece. You can see what a high stand it has. (It also has a separate under collar piece, which I appreciate.) The stand is so high, I had my doubts as to whether it would actually stand up as it should, and I considered doing trapunto stitching on the stand, to add a little stability. Turns out I didn't need to, though.
I took this picture of the jacket on the dress form, so you can see how that collar lends itself to the addition of a scarf. This would be a really cute jacket for fall/winter.
On dress form with scarf.
I used a heavy, rather rough linen, which ended up being kind of a bear to work with, threatening to stretch out of shape at a moment's notice and gleefully raveling as I went along. (All exposed seams inside are serged. I figured it was too heavy to do French seams.)
For the interfacing, I used a fusible weft interfacing.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Well, first and foremost, I had to size it up, because a Burda 20 ain't gonna' cut it for me -- ha! In order to do that, I drew my new lines out about the same distance as was between the size 16 and 20 lines (two sizes). As I did so, I was able to eyeball it in some places, but in others I used my seam gauge to measure out how far my new line should go. In the case of the curve of the lapel, I modified the front pattern piece, then I used that to trace out my new lines for the facing. That way, I knew the curves would be the same. Anyway, you can kind of see here how I sized it up:
Sized up pattern piece (front, in this case).
Sorry, I used to know how to make the pictures bigger on Flickr, but since they changed everything, I haven't figured out how to do that. Okay. I haven't TRIED to figure it out. (LEAVE ME ALONE, FLICKR, I liked the OLD way. Signed, Granny Grump.) :o))
Let's see ... You know, I didn't do a full bust adjustment. I just realized that -- ha! Oh, well, it worked out fine anyway.
When interfacing, it called for interfacing half of the sleeve cuffs and only the under collar (not the upper collar). I interfaced the entire cuff and both the under and upper collar. The front facing is also interfaced, as you would expect.
After interfacing the cuffs, though, and getting them all ready to attach, I decided to leave them off. It's just a one-piece sleeve, and so the cuffs aren't really a working cuff, so to speak. I just decided I didn't want to mess with it. The sleeves would have been too long with them attached, anyway. Normally I don't have to shorten Burda sleeves, but in this jacket, I should have.
I think that's all the changes I made.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I really like both views of this jacket. I MIGHT make another one sometime, longer in the back, or perhaps the other view. Life's short, though, and there are LOTS of jacket patterns from which to choose.