|Pattern Description: |
Cuffed, pleated front low-rise short (three small pleats each side) with front pockets and back darts. Shorts have a fly-front zipper, belt carriers, and a straight wide waistband.
Technical Pattern Drawing
Pattern is currently downloadable and was featured in the July 2013 BurdaStyle magazine.
36, 38, 40, 42, 44. I made a size 40 (my usual Burda for wovens) for a 39" hip/30" waist, and this worked well for me. At first I thought the waistband was too big on this but then I realized I grabbed the measurements from size 42 instead of 40 just because I didn't see that Burda took this up to 44 (normally they'd stop at 42), so waistband was better once I trimmed it down to the right measurements. ; ) Here I was cursing Burda, wondering how they could be off when they are normally so consistent on sizing....I'm the one that's off! LOL, oh the humble experiences of sewing.
I would say to size this pattern based on your hip measurement more than anything since the rise is so low, waist measurements aren't even a factor. The waistband fits me a tad more loosely than what I would like (it kind of floats on me with the stretch fabric especially), but I think if it were smaller, it would overfit the hip area on the short however I might take a tad more out of the waistband next time and ease it into the body since I use stretch fabrics usually for my shorts.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I added two inches to the length, a welt on the back right, completely redrafted the fly front shape and also made it an integrated fly extension, but they otherwise look identical to the pattern picture.
Back of Shorts
Full body to see length
Shorts by themselves
Were the instructions easy to follow?
If you are used to Burda, yes. I used all of the Burda instructions except for the section on the zipper since I used Sandra Betzina's method for fly front. The only other variation I took with the instructions Burda provides were around the waistband where they tell you to turn the inside waistband edge under 3 cm/1 1/4" long. I just matched my seam allowance line on my inside waistband to the attachment seam and folded the rest in half since I was stitching-in-the-ditch and wanted a little hanging over the edge otherwise it would have been the same length as the outer waistband which would have been great if I were finishing it by hand.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- I love the combination of pleats, pockets and cuffs on these. The details work together well and for me this is a huge asset, because I would otherwise normally adjust for a full/athletic thigh and don't have to since these have the additional fullness in the design.
- I appreciate how Burda drafts the cuffs on these. The front/back pattern pieces dart in and out at the bottom to allow for the cuff and hem folds which means a nice fit when you go to cuff them later. Everything lies nicely and no gaping on the cuff.
- I like having the belt carriers with this. Since this is a low-rise, it tends to slide down on me, and I think I foresee the need for a belt in the future when wearing these since I made them from a stretch sateen, and they are tad loose to start with in the waist.
- The shape of the fly front and right facing piece is wonky on this pattern - trace it off, and you'll see it. You can see this in the white pair that Burda made up in the magazine. It just looks bad to me so needless to say, I changed this (details later on).
- This is a low-rise short (top of waistband>=4" below waist measurement line). I'm not usually a big fan of low-rise but not sure why other than I feel like I have a hard time keeping them up.
- Straight waistband - with adjustments for my swayback this works (I make a V into the center back waistband to allow them to fit better), but I can't use a straight waistband as-is and ever have it fit close to my body. It is at least a wider waistband at ~ 1 3/4" wide so that helps.
- Shortie shorts! These are extremely short as drafted by Burda, we're talking 2" inseam if that. It's a little different to adjust for the length but not hard, just time consuming and not much flexibility later on if you keep Burda's shaping on the cuffs (bottom cuts in and out which makes the folds fit nicely, but yeah not exactly the most flexible for adjusting length after you cut).
- Pockets are a little small as drafted. I suppose this is to allow for those shortie shorts! Since I added length, I went on and extended these down another inch, but as drafted, a little small as-is.
A purple cotton/lycra stretch sateen from Denver Fabrics. It was medium-weight stretch sateen. I used medium SupremeWeft fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply for the waistband, fly extension and welts since I wasn't happy with using Pellon on my last short and had tons of this that I was hoarding and not allowing myself to use for some silly reason! So glad I used the good stuff and will never use the cheap stuff again!
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I redrafted the fly front to make the shape a traditional shape and a depth of 1 1/4 (theirs was 1 3/8") and also changed it to an integrated fly extension and eliminated the right facing piece (pattern piece #4) altogether. I had to straighten the center front line and then draft my own pattern piece for the fly underlap in order to do this but not a big deal and well worth it IMO.
- I added 2" to the length which gave it a ~4" inseam after hemming and turning the cuff up. I created a length/shorten line at the first "break" from the crotch (where it starts to dart outward for the cuff fold), then added my length to both the front and back short pieces and kept the shaping on the cuff and hem folds, allowing them to dart in and outward as drafted.
- I added 1" to the length of the pocket and pocket piece since I was adding length to the short. I wanted a decent sized pocket and since I had the extra space, it was easy to add.
- I added a right back welt pocket under the dart. I just love the look of at least one welt in the back, and I went on and added a pocket piece to this to also make it an option to use.
- I made a 1/2" swayback adjustment to the back pieces which also shortened the darts a tad - this is a typical adjustment for me and not indicative of this pattern
- In addition to eventually realizing I'd made my waistband too long and trimming it down to the right size, I ended up taking a V-wedge out of the center back waistband since it was gaping significantly on me due to my swayback. Once I adjusted this, the fit in the back was spot-on. This is a common adjustment for me to make with straight waistbands so nothing new with this pattern.
- I serged on the bottom inside edge of the waistband before stitching-in-the-ditch on the "right" side. Since you topstitch around the waistband, it really wasn't necessary to stitch-in-the-ditch, but I did any way so it would be nice and consistent for my topstitching later.
- I ran topstitching on the crotch seam from the bottom of the fly all the way around to the center back top to hold the seam allowance to one side since I had sewn it and then trimmed/serged it close to the original stitching line for extra strength and tidyness.
- I hand tacked the center front and back of each cuff after stitching-in-the-ditch on the inseam and outseam. I just grabbed the inside layer of the cuff so it wouldn't be visible from the outside about 1/4" down from the top.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, yes, and yes! This is a fabulous pattern. This is by far the nicest pair of shorts I have, much less have made, so far. I don't think you'd go too wrong if you used the pattern as drafted as long as you watch the length, but I really love it better with the extra two inches to the length, the reshaped and integrated fly front, longer pockets, extra welt pocket in back and the shape adjusted, straight waistband that I changed.
The only things I will change the next time will be to shorten the waistband by an inch (aggrevated by stretch fabric I think) and scoop out the back crotch just a tad more - both relatively minor changes and things going in I knew I might have to adjust after intial measurements so not bad. I'm really looking forward to having more of these!