Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|McCall's: 6747 (Misses' Top and Dresses) - Type:Dresses |
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Review rated Very Helpful
by 17 people
|About grays08 |
|Member since: 9/13/11 |
|Reviews written: 87|
|Favored by: 28 people|
|patterns reviewed: 86|
|Posted on:||7/6/13 5:46 PM |
|Last Updated:||7/6/13 5:54 PM|
McCall's Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|See other patterns in this category: Dresses Tops |
|Available for sale on PR: $15.16 (See envelope) |
|Fabric:||Cotton Jersey [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: |
MISSES' TOP AND DRESSES: Pullover, close-fitting top and dresses have button neck and front plackets, and stitched hems. A, B: narrow hem on sleeves. C: button flaps. A,C: pockets. A, B,C,D: fitted through hips. C,D: back hemline slit.
Designed for medium weight moderate stretch knits.
I made view B which is the short-sleeved T-shirt dress above the knee.
I made a size Medium based on my usual pattern size 12-14, and this was perfect despite my initial concerns after looking at the finished garment measurements for bust, waist, and hip (on the pattern pieces themselves). Initially I thought this would be a tent and had too much ease but knowing that my fabric wasn't the stretchiest (<10%), I rolled with it and am glad I did. I would say if you use a super stretchy knit (like most poly ITY), you might want to watch the sizing on this but keep in mind that you have the front placket which goes all the way down to the waist (and will gape open if too taut).
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes although I'm sad McCalls didn't have a picture of this particular view on a model, because it's so cute! The long maxi is nice, but to me that's what caused my concern on sizing with this, because I think they oversized the one on the model. Poor thing was probably wearing the XS (oh to have those problems!). = )
Back of Dress
Dress flat by itself
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Ugh....easy to follow, glitchy and potentially error prone at times - yes. Keep in mind my commentary regards view B - some applies to other views, some will be slightly different as they have other features this one did not. The markings and instructions to me is the downfall of this pattern completely - everything else is superb, but I was frustrated at McCalls while sewing this one.
- Whatever you do, make sure you add interfacing to the center front neck band on both sides/ends at least a couple inches or so long (to cover length of button/buttonhole in this area, keep in mind you have 5/8 in seam allowance here too). I have no idea why McCalls would mark the band for a button/buttonhole (which is off by the way IMHO) and then not have you interface this given it's on the neckline...??? Ugh...yeah so do it up front, and you won't be as angry as I was when I caught it much later as I was putting the neck band on. Other reviews didn't mention this so they must not have used this button, but I can vouch that this is frustrating to realize later on, hopefully you catch it before you sew on the neck band.
- Step 16 applies to all views but is not marked clearly so don't miss this (sewing the shoulder and side seams). I would also say to stabilize the shoulder seam. I used Stay Tape basted on the back piece.
- Ignore marking any of the button/buttonhole stuff until later on. McCalls briefly mentions at the end of the pattern that this should be used as a guide later on in the process (rather than marking up front), but I even found that I would rather try on my dress and mark mid-bust point to ensure the buttons were in the right places on me so I abandoned their button stuff entirely.
- The placket instructions, while textbook for the most part, are error prone especially for knits as marked and written. I found it much easier and more precise to approach it more like a welt (i.e. slashing AFTER you sew the bands on rather than before) and do the following instead:
A) Mark only the following on your fabric pieces in regards to the placket (the markings to me are part of the confusion and mess as written):
On the RIGHT side of the front pattern piece
- mark the center front line from the top to the bottom of the placket (i.e. the bottom two small circles)
- mark the bottom set of small circles or a line across that marks the bottom of the placket
On the "WRONG" side of the right placket band (you will fold them in half and baste them WRONG sides together later so this is still a "RIGHT" side I suppose but what will become the inside of the placket so WRONG side)
- mark only the small circles (again only on one band and ignoring CF markings, buttonholes, etc.)
B) Do the reinforce step (part of Step 2) sewing 2.5 cm up on the sides from bottom circles and around the circles however DO NOT SLIT, SLASH OR CLIP ANYTHING AT THIS POINT!!!!
C) Complete Step 3 which folds the bands together (wrong sides together) and baste long edges
D) Complete Step 4 however note that because you haven't slit anything yet, you will instead take the folded right band (which you marked) and align it's raw edge, WRONG side up with the center front marking, making sure that the small circles on the band match the bottom of the placket markings on your front piece. Sew it as instructed (at 3/8" away from center front mark) and then do the same with the left band however butt it's raw edge up against the other one (which should align with center front marking as well and match bands at the top), WRONG side up and mark the sewing stop point (bottom small circles) from the right band over to the left band, ensuring that they are identical - this is critical for a straight and even bottom placket! You can then stitch again as directed in Step 4, 1/4" away in the seam allowance but stop this line 2 cm up from the bottom circles (this will become the top of the triangle) otherwise you will have to pick this portion of it out later when you go to tuck the end of the placket to the inside after clipping the triangle. This picture shows when I went through this step at this point for reference. NOTE: I had everything marked this first time I went through this but didn't use it and wouldn't recommend it, but yeah, not just talking out my arse just making new recommendations for marking based on what I actually used out of what I marked. = )
E) At this point, after you have ensured that the actual sewing stop points at the bottom are in alignment between the right and left band (if not, correct this), you can slit down the center front line, stopping 2 cm above from your sewing stop points/small circles and clipping into the inside bottom edge of your sewing stop points/small circles to form a triangle. Make sure to press the allowances towards the dress since you can now do this from Step 4 since it has been clipped. Here is a picture of the triangle area after clipping.
F) Complete Steps 5-7 noting that depending on where you stopped your 1/4" additional seam line from Step 4 (w/in the seam allowance), you may have to pick out parts of this to tuck your band to the inside at the bottom as it can impede the triangle if sewn over this space since it was sewn before the triangle was cut. Also note that on Step 7, your edgestitching "box" starts 2 cm up from the small circles (where you started your triangle) and goes down to 1/8" from the bottom, sewing diagonally within this box. You don't need the stitching lines McCalls uses and actually it's probably better to adapt them to what you have sewn than have the markings be slightly off after sewing. Here's what mine looked like at this point (note this is prior to button/buttonholes which are at the end).
- The CF markings and button/buttonhole markings on the neck band are just silly to me. This marking aligns with the center front marking on the placket (which is the center line your buttonholes run through) but ultimately, it matches on the end with the placket so why mark this? Align the ends of the neck band together with the placket, and you are set. Mark the buttonhole where it's centered above the vertical ones that run on the placket or wherever you want it, but you don't need this marked. I didn't like where they put it as it was back further than I would like...so I tried to center my horizontal one on the neck band with the vertical ones on the placket. I really did mine to look nice and line up when it's buttoned, and I suppose that's the most important advice I can give.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- I love the placket. I had plans to sew up one of Jalie's T-shirt patterns and just extend it into a dress until I saw this one and bought it just for the placket (I don't know why, not like I couldn't have added this, ha!).
- The short sleeve on this is drafted fabulously! It fits me better than any other knit one that I have tried. I'm definitely stealing it for use on other knit projects.
- The shape of this dress pleasantly surprised me. I think I was thrown off by the pattern photo which I think it too large for the model. This is actually a slimming dress despite it's ease measurements which scared me at first. I like how it looks on me, flattering but not plastered to me but also not sack or tent-like.
- The lack of any kind of interfacing on the neck band where you are asked to put a buttonhole/button? Really McCalls..??? I couldn't believe this as I went to attach my neck band and luckily I caught it as I was pinning it on so I could still stick some down inside the folded neck band (at this point had already sewn the ends).
- The barage of various markings, a lot of which are not needed and actually can be detrimental (in the case of the placket particularly). I don't mind marking but make it be something that is critical to mark McCalls! = )
- The section on the placket, while certainly "standard" placket instructions (although no staystitching of whole placket?), I believe will cause some variation in results. I personally like slashing into it AFTER I've sewn it so I can make sure that I'm clipping into the exact end points with precision and everything is lined up before I slash. I also think this reduces wear and distortion on that bottom area which the reinforcement helps with but can't completely prevent inside the lines where it is clipped prior to sewing.
A 100% cotton jersey print from Denver Fabrics.com. It's a lightweight fabric and dreamy to wear but with no lycra/spandex, stretch is limited but not an issue with this pattern as it met the minimum. It's a great T-shirt sort of fabric. I would highly recommend cotton and cotton blend knits for this pattern as you need something that can press (for the placket).
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I added an additional button/buttonhole and moved their location around based on what I wanted. I marked mid-bust after trying on and then just spaced them how I liked and since I wanted to wear this at times with it unbuttoned slightly, I thought an extra one would give me more flexibility, and it has already in the little time that I have worn it.
- I basted Stay Tape to the back shoulder seam before attaching it to the front to stabilize it.
- I didn't do the hems as instructed, instead on the sleeve I turned under 1/4" with Steam-a-Seam Lite before flipping it under and coverstitching the hem. I just coverstitched the bottom hem.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If you can adapt better instructions/methods and not get lost in all the random markings, this is a home run pattern. It's super quick to sew up even with the placket and all the buttons/buttonholes. I'm definitely making this again and using some cotton/lycra jersey knit as any kind of cotton blend knit works fantasically for this. I would love to have all the versions of this pattern which is rare for me!
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