Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|BurdaStyle Magazine: 02-2013-109 (Asymmetric Top) - Type:Tops |
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Review rated Very Helpful
by 8 people
|About grays08 |
|Member since: 9/13/11 |
|Reviews written: 87|
|Favored by: 28 people|
|patterns reviewed: 86|
|Posted on:||7/9/13 9:50 AM |
|Last Updated:||7/9/13 9:56 AM|
More Info provided by grays08
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|NEW! See reviews of patterns from this issue|
|Fabric:||Cotton-Lycra Knit [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: |
Asymmetric hem, wide, pleated and gathered strap top cut onto one side of the back. Pattern is designed to hug the body in all areas.
Technical Pattern Drawing
Pattern is currently downloadable and was featured in the spectacular February 2013 BurdaStyle magazine. I have made quite a few things out of this Burda and continue to find stuff.
34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44. I made a size 40 (my usual in Burda, bounce between 38 and 40) for a 36" bust, and this worked well for me. This pattern is a body hugger so I'm glad I went with the higher of my two Burda sizes. If I make this again I will look into adding just a little ease as I'm self-conscious about it, but I wouldn't say it is untrue to size at all, just meant to be a body-hugger/slimmer fit design.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes. I will say I like to wear the band "up" on mine more than allowing it to slump to the side towards the arm. Burda shows theirs in a lighter fabric so the band falls to the side at the top but with my cotton jersey knit, I have the structure to wear it up if I want. Do note however that I think you have to try it on and adjust it before you sew the band to the front like Burda suggests - I had to pull in the band piece by the neck a bit more than just the seam allowance to fit my shoulder/neck area and have adjusted it again slightly after wearing to get it the way I want.
Back of Top (sausage casing comes to mind = )
Were the instructions easy to follow?
If you are used to Burda, yes. I used all of the Burda instructions, but I would caution the use of "auto-pilot" on this one even with the illustrated walk-through as there are a couple areas that I instinctively wanted to do the wrong thing on (i.e. pleated/tuck shoulder, band overlap to neck facing). Also, overall the instructions are provided for the dress version (110) instead of the top (109) so you have to be careful as Burda gives you different seam allowance recommendations for the two and also cater the instructions to the dress so you need to know to ignore interfacing the bottom hem area (mentioned after the Vilene Bias Tape instructions) and continually watch the seam allowances as what is written is catered to the dress (which uses 3/8" almost everywhere as opposed to the top which uses 5/8" everywhere except armholes and front neck at 3/8").
Watch the "Stitch tucks on strap" step - these are easy to be mislead on as you want to just take the lines, match them up and sew a tuck or pleat, and I found myself doing the wrong thing just on auto-pilot. Once I took another glance at Burda's picture, it became clear to me that this would be really easy to mess up. Fold on the first "fold line" with the WRONG side of the fabric facing you, pin, and then flip the entire garment to the RIGHT side and sew on the "sew line" (these are marked on the back pattern piece, the "sew line" is the one with the machine foot icon) which is 5/8" over from the fold line and about an inch long. You then repeat this for the other two - so you end up with three, 5/8" wide pleats that all press and aim up towards the top from the RIGHT side of the garment. This step is important as this is what structures the overlap band and keeps the band from being too loose/pulled in in addition to the gathering you will do later on. This is what the shoulder should look like when done with this step (and also the instruction step that is critical is behind it).
The only other step that I found myself wanting to do the wrong thing instinctively on was after gathering the strap and going to line it up with the front piece - make sure you have folded your front neck facing back out as Burda instructs but also keep in mind that your strap here has a 5/8" seam allowance and so it needs to extend passed the edge of the front neck facing. I just marked the 5/8" line on my strap and aligned it with the "attachment seam" (where the front neck facing attaches to the front piece) and sewed back over this same line to attach - only exception was I pulled in the inner most part of the band a bit more to adjust fit (Burda warns you to try it on first). I think it's just natural instinct to try to align it with raw edges together with the facing, and this would be a mistake as your gathering on the band extends up to 1/2" since it's using a 5/8" seam allowance assumption so you must do this to cover it and get the right size gathered area to attach between the notches as well.
Don't forget the hem - this is mentioned back with 109 in the magazine, separate from the dress instructions. It just sews 1 1/2" up on your 1 5/8" hem allowance.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- Cool take on a T-shirt with the one arm band and the asymmetrical hem. DH immediately labeled it my "fashion tee".
- Shaping is nice on this - love the curves around the neck and the dart inward around the one armhole, interesting collar/shoulder band.
- The fit is close and snug. I'm not sure this is quite a dislike, but it makes me very aware of my posture when I wear it which I suppose isn't a horrible thing. I'm guessing the dress version continues to cling on down which would be interesting! LOL! I just will have to watch what bottoms I wear with it as it clings to those as well and gives me bumps I don't have.
A medium weight cotton/lycra blend from Walmart that I got for $1/yard (and so yeah, I bought the bolt at that price). I also used DesignPlus fusible bias stay tape that I bought from Fabric.com - love this stuff. I would say to keep in mind the body-hugging design of this when choosing a fabric and fabric weight.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I didn't make any pattern alterations although I did end up shortening all of the "facing" strips which were really just bindings as I found them too long based on the measurements provided by Burda for my size (which included allowances even). I ended up taking 5/8" off the front neck binding and almost that much off each of the armhole bindings as well. I would say to pin the bindings down without stretching them and cut any extra off based on my experience with Burda bindings. These aren't the type that need to be stretched as applied (it's already a stable area if you fused on your bias stay tape) so this worked well.
- I ended up coverstitching quite a bit of this but not because I had to (it's got fusible bias tape which stabilizes the neck and armholes), it just ended up looking nice so I went with it.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is a nice one - interesting and different than your normal every day T-shirt. I think I'll add a slight bit of ease to the sides overall next time (I will sew it again in a fun color or stripe), but I'm happy with this one. I'm glad I was flipping back through my Burdas, because I had set this aside for the summer but forgot once it rolled around! Definitely a quick one to whip up and a nice, different piece to have in a wardrobe.
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