|Pattern Description: Today's Fit by Sandra Betzina semi-fitted coats. |
View B has a stand up collar, View A has a stand up collar gathered with darts into the neckline, both views have princess seamed bodice, front zippered closure, zippered pockets, full lining.
View A is full length with a back band with a zip, sleeve overlay with snaps, contrast under sleeve, contrast piping at the bodice and back yoke. View B is jacket length with pieced sleeves.
All in all this is a pattern with lots of mix - and - match details and nice design lines. I did not realize that it is now out of print, which is a pity.
* Edited to add that apparently it is still available. I don't know why I could not access it when I was writing this review.
Pattern Sizing:This is a well drafted pattern but it tried to be all things at once and I had issues with the sizing.
Firstly all the sizes are in the same envelope which made it a bit hard to work with and the sizes are not labelled in the usual big 4 numbers. You choose the size by the measurements on the back of the envelope, which I did for my upper bust and shoulders I have wide shoulders, regular bust, slightly bigger than standard sized waist - and go from there.
What I did not do was account for the amount of ease. Ease at bust for sizes D-E-F is 4 and 3/4 inches, which is fine for a big overcoat but too much for a jacket. Same amount of ease at the waist as the skirt part of the jacket/coat flares out.
What I ended up with was a pattern too big in the area where patterns on me are usually too small - the waist of the bodice and top of skirt, while the shoulders fitted fine.
I had not made a muslin, thinking the fit would be straightforward. Two major errors on my part and you know what they say, never assume!
I also assumed that, since I was putting in the back band as one piece, it would hold the back of the jacket in snug and eliminate the need for a sway back adjustment.
Um, no it didn't and half way through the project I was unpicking back yokes, front and back princess seams and side skirt seams to try and bring everything in a size at the waist. I did and it's ok, but not as good as if I had altered and trued the pieces to start with. I was limited by the fact that I had already done the pockets.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?In it's basic lines, yes, which is good because I did away with many of the details. So much so that I used the sleeve lining pieces for the sleeves themselves. I eliminated piping, shoulder pads, zipper placket, pocket zippers and back peplum zip. I added welt pocket style flaps to cover the pocket holes.
The pocket design is clever. You put the pocket lining piece on the outside, sew your pocket welt square, slash and clip to the corners then turn the lining to the inside and then attach the inside pocket piece and the whole pocket (and in my case the pocket flaps) become incorporated into the waist bodice seam and skirt edge at the sides. No worries about your pocket stretching.
Were the instructions easy to follow?The instructions are very good and if the jacket fits you out of the packet and you just go step by step it's all good.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?Dislikes: In the bodice the grading jumps from reasonable to huge and I needed an in between size. There is too much ease for a jacket.
Likes: Nice design, pieces go together well, lovely collar that sits well either up or down, looks good in crazy print material!
Fabric Used:A very fine soft pinwhale corduroy with folkloric print for the shell, light weight poly cotton interlining, broadcloth for the front facing due to fabric constraints, polyester lining. Chunky black plastic separating zip. I did not use any interfacing as such, but interlined both sides of the collar for added stability.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:Alterations - bringing in the waist as described, simplifying sleeves, raising the centre back by 3/4" where the skirt meets the bodice as an on-the-run sway back adjustment, taking 1/2" off the sides of the back belt peplum moving the pocket openings 2" more to the centre than marked, adding stitched flaps over the pockets, shortening the length all the way to the end of the zipper.
Would you sew it again?Frankly, even though I love my jacket, it was so much work that I am moving on to other things. Apart from pattern fitting issues my material, though pretty, also had issues. A very fine and velvety corduroy with a nap combined with a design stamped on in such a way that it did not meet as it should when folded made added work.
the best I could do for my sway back
Shifting material to stay true to the print
Conclusion: A lovely but deceptively simple pattern with dangers lurking like crocodiles in the mud. If you are going on this safari Make .. A .. Muslin
I hope I haven't made it sound like a nightmare. The pattern is worth it if you have it and like it enough to choose your details and perfect the fit.
More on my blog.