Pattern Description: From the envelope- "Fitted lined and underlined dress(loose fitting through hips) has contrast back neck and armhole binding, invisible back zipper.
My Description- Fitted lined and underlined wedding dress. Low scooped back. Invisible back zipper.
Pattern Sizing: 6-12, 14-22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The front looks much the same as the pattern envelope. The back looked much different due to design alterations.
Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't really look at them. I was using a more couture approach and made more use of my methods of construction, Susan Khalje's Bridal Couture as well as her Craftsy Couture Dress class. From other reviews it looks like the instructions are not entirely clear. That may come from the layers of fabric involved and the terms used- Lining and underlining and the fact that the overlay is referred to as "dress". It is basically a dress over a dress fastened together in places.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? My daughter picked it out as the base for her "Reception Dress" for her wedding. She bought her wedding dress at a flea market (!) and it fit her perfectly. Since the wedding was outdoors in a tent on their farm she thought a short lace dress would be fun and she also knew that my nose would be a titch out of joint if I couldn't make her wedding dress! I've sewn and designed her sisters dresses and it just wouldn't be the same if she went through the day without wearing something I made for her!
Fabric Used: Embellished lace with a retro feel (LA Fabrics in Toronto). Underdress- silk/cotton. Lace was underlined with Silk Organza.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: First I made a mockup for her just for fit purposes. Once that was fitting right we drew our new design lines on that mockup. She wanted a low back and more of a bateau neckline. One final mockup was made and that was taken apart, cut along the stitching lines and used as the pattern for the dress. There was a lot of redrafting especially in the waist/hip area.
Couture Elements The stitching lines were thread traced on the lace, organza and the underdress. The lace is fairly heavily beaded and I crushed all the beads in the seam line and beyond with a pair of pliers. (note to self- remember to do this outside next time!) I underlined the lace with silk organza as the lace was quite open and I thought that it might "fall" too much without added support. I did not underline the sleeves. I sewed this lace by machine. Placement of the pattern pieces took a long time as I wanted a continuous scallop line at the hem. This lace has flowers that look like daisy's and some of these I cut from remnants and handstitched to spots on the seam lines to give the illusion of continuity.
I hand sewed a lot of the lace - side seams at the hem, sleeve insertion, centre back of lace because handsewing offers a lot more control than a machine.
Leah wanted the back neckline to be close fitting. The border of the lace was too large and sheer to achieve this so I found a smaller lace trim that echoed the fabric in colour, embellishment and design. This was hand stitched on to the lace with tiny darts added to mold to her back.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I would sew it again. A caveat to sewists though is that a dress like this needs a lot of attention to fitting and little details. It is not a sew in a weekend dress!
Conclusion: Leah loved it and looked beautiful. That's enough for any mom! Go Here to see more photos on Picasa
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