The Hawthorn dress is a front buttoning shirt dress with options for 3/4 sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless. It can also be made as a shirt. I cut a size 12 in the bust and tapered down to a 10 in the waist. I made the sleeveless dress version #3. There was no need to do my usual FBA that I have to do when using the "Big 4" patterns.
This is a really cute dress that comes out looking just like the photos. As always, Colette's patterns come a booklet of clear sewing instructions to construct their garments. The only problem I ran into was the collar. Here it was unclear what the seam allowance on the collar was supposed to be so I did the usual 5/8". That turned out to make the collar too short to match up to the dots on the bodice. So I had to remake the collar using only a 1/4" seam on the short collar ends and then it lined up perfectly.
I varied from the pattern only with the back skirt part. I cut it with the center on the fold instead having a center seam up the skirt's back. I also lined the whole dress with Ambiance/Bemberg lining fabric, so I didn't need to do the bias binding on the armhole.
I used a very fluid rayon challis and underlined it with organdy to give it some body. The pattern envelope calls for crisp fabrics like cotton poplin and lawn. The rayon does have some wrinkles even with the underlining, and I knew it would happen, but I don't care because I just love the feel and drape of rayon. I will make this dress again but next time I'll use a crisper fabric.