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|Self Drafted Pattern: 125587-1012 (Columbia Sun Goddess Shirt) - Type:Tops |
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|About treefrog |
|Member since: 2/13/08 |
|Reviews written: 218|
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|Posted on:||7/27/13 2:11 AM |
|Last Updated:||7/27/13 2:13 AM|
|Fabric:||Silk [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: This is a knock-off of the Columbia Sun Goddess long sleeve shirt. It is a hiking shirt with a couple of twists. |
The back has a V shaped yoke and two vertical darts at the waist. There is a small slit at the bottom of the side seam.
One the front, there are three rows of tucks on each side that are tacked down to get a zig-zag effect (I'm sure there is a term for this but it escapes me at the moment). The tucks release at the waist. The back pockets and flaps are applied over the tucks.
The sleeves have cuffs and plackets, with a tab for rolling up the sleeve. The tab is looped through a bar on the sleeve with both parts of the snap on the tab.
back This is closer to the shirt colour than the following photos
front pleat detail The pocket looks uneven in this photo, but it is just the way folds are sitting on the dressform.
Drafting Method: I used a my TNT shirt template (based on KwikSew 3555) and made adjustments to the pattern.
The sleeve placket was made using the template in Threads Magazine Jun/Jul 2012 p56. The tab was drafted to be 20cm x 5cm and the tab bar 1.5cm x 5cm for a finished width of 7mm x 4cm
The back yoke was drafted by re-combining the yoke and back, then drawing a new seam-line on an angle starting at the centre back 4cm below the original seam and ending at the armhole 4cm higher than the original seam. The shoulder dart was transferred to the new seam line.
The placement of the back darts were taken from a previous modification to this pattern.
On the front, 3 x 6mm pleats 15mm apart were added running from the shoulder and centred within the pocket placement line on the pattern. Placement of the "pleat turnback" was every 8cm starting 4cm above and below the pocket. Pleats were released 4cm below the waistline.
A separate button band was drafted.
The bottoms of the pocket and pocket flap were rounded to look like the Columbia shirt. I made cardboard templates to help with shaping the pocket corners.
Fabric Used: The fabric is a undyed silk bamboo blend. It is very light and fluid (much better than the synthetics they make hiking shirts out of at the moment). It was dyed with a "eggplant" Procion dye. The result was a nice surprise as it is a very deep purple blue but depending on the light it has a shot of brilliant magenta. Very hard to photograph though.
Construction: This is where the nightmare began as that lovely fluid nature of the fabric was shape-shifting when I tried to pin in the tucks. I ended up starching the fabric to make it easier to sew. The weird thing was the fabric grew by about 10-15% when the starch was applied ( maybe the bamboo ?? but I've never come across this before). I made sure I marked the stitching lines before I applied the starch so it would shrink back to the right size after washing.
Sewing was done it bite size chunks over 4 months when I had the courage to tackle the fabric.
The pleats were sewn in, back darts stitched then the double yoke was sewn on. Next came the pockets & flaps, hem and button band.
The placket was very fiddle with this fabric but turned out well. I decided not to push my luck and leave off the tabs and tab bars.
The sleeve was sewn in flat, then the side seams.
Finally cuffs, collar and buttons
Likeness to pattern photo/drawing: The top looks similar to the Columbia shirt, especially in the details. I've gone for a looser fit as I prefer hiking shirts to be a bit looser if I'm carrying a pack.
Likes & Dislikes: I like the details on this shirt and I think they have turned out well. The pleats add a bit too much fullness at the front and would probably have been better if one or two continued to the hem.
While I love the fabric and will enjoy wearing it, it was a real challenge to sew.
Conclusion: Glad it is finally finished. I like the result and am looking forward to wearing it when summer comes around again.
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