|Burda: 7208 (Top, pants and skirt) - Type:Coordinates|
Review submitted in Fabric Stash Contest 2013 Contest
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Review rated Very Helpful
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|About Margaret |
|Member since: 11/4/02 |
|Reviews written: 283|
|Favored by: 44 people|
|patterns reviewed: 264|
|Posted on:||7/29/13 9:01 AM |
Burda Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|See other patterns in this category: Tops Pants Skirts |
|Available for sale on PR: $8.96 (See envelope) |
|Fabric:||Matte Jersey [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description: "Coordinates: AB semi-fitted, CD loose fitting." More specifically: |
Pattern Sizing: 36-48/US 10-22. I'm between 38 and 40 and decided to cut 38, though it might have been better to start out with 40 in the lower torso part of the top, given that my knit wasn't the stretchiest.
- For knits.
- The tops (A and B) have a front slit with a thread loop and inside button at the top, back V neckline, front and back gathers at the shoulders, and an asymmetrical gathered overlay. The shoulder seams are (I think, but I don't have Burda's basic block to prove it) about 1/2" forward of normal. View A has long set-in sleeves with elastic at the wrists. B is sleeveless.
- C is elastic-waist pants with wide, almost-straight legs.
- D is an elastic-waist full skirt; the pattern pieces are approximately rectangular.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? The flats/line drawings don't show the center front seam on the top. There is one. The drawings of the trousers might give the impression that they are flared, but they are really almost straight (very slightly tapered, even). They have a lot of ease, especially in the leg, which I think the model photo shows well.
Were the instructions easy to follow? No. Fortunately, I didn't really need them. But here are some examples. (Note that since I bought this pattern in Europe, it's somewhat different in that it doesn't have (most) seam allowances included, and it has the instructions in several more languages. I could be wrong, but I assume the English instructions are the same as you'd find on the American edition.)
On the plus side, the diagrams are very good and I didn't see any problems with them.
- They recommend using a serger for knits, which is all well and good, except that most of the seams on this pattern are meant to be pressed open.
- A general recommendation that you sew hems with twin needles appears as Step 1. I don't think this should be a numbered step at all, and especially not the first one!
- Step 2 has you trimming the front neck edge to 3/8", when the "Seam Allowances" section could have just told you to add 3/8" instead of 5/8" to that edge in the first place!
- It wasn't clear to me how you're meant to finish the CF ends of the front neckline finish (it's a strip folded in half, sewn on, and turned to the inside). I suppose you could turn them under, but with my fabric, the bulk was already starting to add up, so I just cut the ends off and felled the raw edges down on the inside as best I could.
- There are the usual Burda odd translations, such as "neaten" for "finish", etc.
What did you particularly like... It's different from other patterns I have. Although the draped midriff part is bulky at the side seams, overall it's flattering. That, together with the looseness of the upper parts, is good for hiding any bumps, which can be very helpful given how thin some of the current knits are.
or dislike about the pattern? There are some areas where bulk can really add up: the front neckline finish, the shoulder seams, and the side seams. Also, the instructions don't have you finish the top and bottom edges of the overlay sections; they are just supposed to be folded under. I hemmed them with a twin needle.
Fabric Used: Some sort of synthetic/elastane matte jersey. This might have been a bit firmer and heavier than was really ideal for the pattern, but it seemed to work out OK.
The pattern recommends jersey and lightweight knits. The overlay part is really very fitted (negative ease), so I really wouldn't recommend any knits with poor recovery for the top. It also gives the fabric amounts and cutting layouts only for each individual item, for 114cm (45") or 140cm (55") fabric. I was able to use less for A and C combined, although my fabric was also a bit wider. You might not be able to save any with the skirt and top, because the skirt pieces are nearly rectangles and I'm not sure you could get other pieces in alongside them.
Sorry there are no pictures on me; it's the middle of a heat wave, and those layers of close-fitting synthetic knit would've been intolerable right now. This matte jersey was one of my "what was I thinking" purchases from several years ago -- the color is really too bright/clear for me, it's more synthetic than I prefer to wear, and I don't know why I had so much of it. So the stash contest was my motivation to use this up. I'm not sure if I'd be brave enough to wear the entire outfit at once, but I would wear the pieces individually, and worst case, it's turned out as a good wearable muslin for this pattern.
I get the impression that Burda drafts for a shorter waist length and longer leg length than the Big4 (but about the same total height, for the non-petite sizes anyway). I am shorter than the standard but with other brands, usually I have to take some of the length out above the waist and in the sleeves, and less of it in the legs. Here it was all in the legs.
- I sewed the front slit closed higher up, because it probably would have been long enough to show a bra. I have a high bust, but still....
- I let out the side seams starting above the waist, in line with where the higher side of the gathers starts. I'd tried the top on safety-pinned together and it was just too claustrophobia-inducing to get it on and off otherwise. (YMMV if you use a stretchier knit, but I'd think twice before sewing this for anyone with mobility issues or fear of getting stuck in lycra.)
- On the back, I folded out a wedge along the lengthen/shorten line that was provided at hip level. This makes the back crotch curve straighter, which is better if you don't need so much length there.
- There are also lengthen/shorten lines above and below the knee. I took out a little bit of length above the knee and a lot below. On the latter alteration, I left some extra length in so I could save paper by not having to add hem allowance at the bottom of the pattern. I straightened out the bottom of the leg slightly so this wouldn't cause the hem to be too tapered to fit the outside of the leg.
or any design changes you made:
Would you sew it again? I don't really want more than one of these per season, but I could see making the sleeveless top if I found the right fabric.
- I did all the elastic attachment using the Kwik-Sew method (where you zigzag it on, flip to the inside, and zigzag again) rather than the casing method the pattern uses. I don't know if it saves any time, but I find it less tedious.
- The pattern has you use a thread loop and an inside button to close the front neckline. I used a hanging snap instead, because it was smaller than any buttons I had on hand, so I thought I could make it less visible and less likely to slide around.
- I added fusible bias tapes inside the front slit and back neckline edges before sewing, since I was concerned about those stretching.
- I hemmed the overlays with a twin needle instead of leaving the folded edges unsecured, as mentioned above.
Would you recommend it to others? Yes, but because of the instructions, probably not to beginners. That is, unless you just want the skirt or pants, which are much simpler.
Conclusion: A nice pattern for knits if you want something a bit different. The skirt and trousers are easy to sew but may be too loose-fitting to appeal to some. The tops are more difficult, but can be nice if you're bored with basic knit tops.
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