|Click Here for a photo of the front|
This bodice is in three pieces, Front, Side, and Back, the most common style of the early Victorian period. The shoulder is cut with an elongated line, and is finished with a large Modified Pagoda sleeve, which is fitted at the armhole, but full below the elbow. Optional necklines, either high necked for day wear, or an open square neck for evening events. The front can be either straight across, or a shallow point at the waist.
multisize, from 30" bust (22" waist) to 56" bust (48" waist)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I'm suprised at how much it did, although I shouldn't be!
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I skimmed them so missed the step in #1 to tape the sleeve halves together before cutting. I didn't, and despite having seamed them, they fitted into the armscye easily ... and I didn't need that 1" that was eaten by the seam allowances.
I really like the way TV has you select the back and front pattern pieces, although fitting the front is harder with a large chest frontage.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? It provided the style I was after, I've found the pattern range to be consistently sized and comparatively easy to fit. This wasn't an exception.
A very lightweight cotton satin - lovely to work with, flatlined with a blue & red on white check dobby cotton. I also used the check as piping around the outer edge.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I only flatlined and didn't also bag it out. I felt that both flat and bag lining is a bit over-engineered. The few bodices I've seen from thhis era didn't do this, their flat lining fabric was a tightly woven cotton, often polished. Avoiding the bag lining required a new edge finish, so I piped all the neck/front/hem edges instead of cutting a facing. I drafted my own neckline as I didn't want high or square.
To fit myself I started with a G back and K front & J sleeves (beefy biceps). Before I mocked up the pattern I took 1" out between waist & underarm and 5/8ths" between underarm & shoulder.
After mocking up, I had to take another 1" out at the shoulder seam, which made the armscye too small so I cut that back to the seamline - this provided me with enough room. I also took a small amount at centre back seams at waist level (tapering to zero about 4cm above the waist). Also reshaped the centre front edge making it curved rather than adjusting the darts. above the bust the neck edge was gappy, so I pulled the piping cord tighter in the channel by about 2", which was exactly what it needed. I should have done a combination of shaping the CF line and adjusting the piping.
The only pattern drafting issue was the J size sleeves didn't match at the straight seam, one half was approx 2cm longer than the other. I just cut the longer off to fit, curving it to meet the other half at the under arm seam which did fit together.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I'll possibly sew it again, if I need this bodice style again.
I made this to go with my bloomer style skirt & bloomers, so I'm really happy with it.