|Pattern Description: |
Knit jersey cross-front tunic and dress with contrast color bindings and contrast pocket/waistband area. This dress was one cover side of the 4/2013 Ottobre Design magazine.
Line Drawing of Pattern #14
Okay, here's my warning, pattern sizing on this is off, and I can't tell if it's Ottobre or if it's just this pattern as this is the first Ottobre I've sewn (but haven't had an issue with Burda or Young Image sizes for DD). I made a 128 based on my DD's measurements for waist/hip/length-height which should have sized the waist for her at 23 1/4" however the waist band measures 27 1/4", and this is a stretch knit pattern! The crazy thing is that the shoulder/chest are true to sizing and the waist falls at the right spot, but this is really wide in the waist. I noticed in the magazine that the little girl is wearing a shirt underneath hers, and the tunic version is baggy in the waist area on the other girl as well so I suspect Ottobre had the same issue making this up. I'm for ease, but this is a bit much! If you click on the "More Info provided by grays08" at the top, you can see the magazine picture I'm referring to.
My advice on sizing this is to fit the chest/shoulder area best and then check the waistband piece as to how far it is off and adjust, but of course this means you will also have to adjust the bodice and skirt pieces but not a huge deal and definitely better than making this up and having it be too roomy, especially if making in knits. Ironically the length of the dress is the same no matter what size you select so I would also recommend adding length to it if you are in the higher size ranges for this as it's a little short.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, minus the shirt underneath to make it fit better! Ha, LOL....
Back of Dress (which really shows excess ease at waist)
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very easy, very to the point and well done, loved the order, loved adding my own seam allowances too (can use 1/4", yeah!). I used Ottobre's suggestion for calculating binding length based on stretch, and it worked perfectly. I would point out that there are actually two places the contrast fabric is used for this design - in the pocket piece itself and the waistband. The instructions didn't mention this, but the magazine write-up did.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
- Cute, cute cute! I love the contrast pockets with the waistband, and the binding really makes this look RTW.
- Simple to put together
- Neckline perfect for kids - not too low or too high. (I wish the Big 4 could figure this out!)
- Pattern drafted with too much ease in the waist. I really think the proportion of the waist to everything else is out of whack and not sure why since you're dealing with knits. It doesn't look bad, but it could really look sharp if I had caught this earlier and adjusted for it, at least an inch minimum. Live and learn, normally I measure the heck out of the pattern before making up but was so concerned about the sizing chart this first time that I missed this.
- Length is questionable, especially when compared to the tunic version. I laughed when I saw the difference on the pattern, but I suppose it depends which size you are making up. I added 5/8" to the length and really should have added more as I still ended up taking a very small hem which wasn't ideal.
A pink retro floral 7 oz "cotton jersey" from Girl Charlee. I put quotes around it because cotton content is only 30%, and it feels like a very thin rayon/poly mix more than anything remotely cotton. For the contrast waist and pocket insert, I used a very nice 10 oz, 90/10% cotton/lycra jersey from Girl Charlee and used a 9 oz cotton/lycra dark pink from Girl Charlee for the binding. I would caution anyone to watch weights if ordering from Girl Charlee as the heavier stuff is so much nicer for the money but the majority of it is on the very lightweight side.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I added 5/8" to the length of the dress since my DD is tall for her age.
- I stabilized the shoulder seam with stay tape applied to the wrong side of the back shoulder seam.
- I chose to handle sewing on the binding a bit differently than Ottobre. I sewed the right side of the binding to the wrong side of the garment and then flipped it over, folding under the seam allowance and then doing a narrow coverstitch from the top/right side. This looked so nice however it meant that I had to take the time to press the binding so all the folds were ready to go, and I had to make it 1 5/8" wide to accomodate this. It was a little time consuming but well worth it in terms of how it looked when finished.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is such a wearable, cute little dress for girls. DD insists it is perfect as-is, but I would really like to go back and revamp my pattern, adjusting the waistband width (and therefore everything else that attaches to it) since this is just so cute and easy to whip up. I know I will sew plenty more Ottobre patterns as they are just fabulous, I just hope I have time to go back and do this one again as it has wonderful potential to be perfect and made many more times. I would highly recommend it, just really watch the sizing recommendations I mentioned above.