Kenzo - Misses' Vest, Dress, Tunic & Pants. Close-fitting, sleeveless reversible vest has shaped neckline & hemline and purchased bias tape finish. Optional purchased soutache trim. Tubular dress, in 2 lengths, or tunic has jewel neckline, extension front buttoned closing extending into shallow pleat, one piece yoke, full-length sleeves, side slits and topstitch trim. Straight-legged pants darted into waistband have pockets in side seams and front zipper closing. Purchased belts and bags.
This is a mid-70s pattern from the "Young Designer Kenzo" line. Kenzo - although no longer young - is still designing. In fact, this linen shirt from a current collection is close in style to this 1970s pattern.
Misses' single size
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, it looked like view A, but without a belt.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I actually found the instructions a bit confusing and hard to follow, especially for attaching the front placket.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the ethnic 70s vibe of the style. It looks like something that could've been worn to a Ravi Shankar concert by a hippie wannabe. I also like that the pattern wasn't "easy" - it's a designer pattern with a few complicated construction details (underarm gussets, anyone?).
I also dislike that the pattern wasn't "easy". It was fussier than it ought to have been, and took too long to make.
Jones New York linen in muted mint, purchased from FabricMart Fabrics last Spring. I do like the rumpled linen look, and wear the fabric all summer - you can see the creases just from opening the top buttons to put the shirt on the dress form.
I had intended to use sew-in interfacing for the yoke and front facings, but my stash lacked the right size piece of silk organza, and the nearest source for it is too much of a trip. I made the mistake of using a lightweight Pellon fusible instead. It bubbles every time I wash the shirt and it has to be re-fused constantly.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I re-designed the back yoke to make a broad back adjustment, and added some fullness. I used decorative stitches around the shortened-to-3/4-length-sleeves, the neckline, yoke, front placket, and hem, instead of three rows of topstitching in the pattern instructions.
Most of the modifications I made were saves after operator error. First, my serger blade cut a hole in the front shirt overlap area (I'll just put a buttonhole there, I thought...), then I poked a hole in and scorched the top section. I ended up cutting that section away, and inserting a separate placket. I also cut the bottom off too short, so I added a band at the hem.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I doubt if I'll sew it again, but I do recommend it to others.
This was a fun project, and it resulted in a very useful shirt - I've worn it to work at least once a week all summer. I have a couple of other Kenzo Young Designer patterns (again with the gussets!) and will try to make those.