|Pattern Description: Burda calls this a "Pantsuit". Jacket and Pants|
Pattern Sizing:This envelope holds sizes 10-22. My measurements are: Waist 29, hip 36 1/2 and I have some high hip fluff. I started with a 12 waist/hip and ended with the 10 leg. See alterations below.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?For my size and height(5'2) and the alterations done, I think they came pretty close.
Were the instructions easy to follow?For someone who knows how to read patterns and doesn't rely on them for every detail, they were pretty easy. I really didn't use them much.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?I liked what seemed to be a basic slacks pattern, with the Burda crotch as a jumping off point for my adjustments. See alterations below.
Fabric Used:Some type of cotton twill with a bit of poly in it. Hangs soft and a bit heavy. It's a pretty dark blue.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:Here we go: I didn't want the side pockets, so before tracing out my pattern pieces, I pinned the pocket/side front piece to the pant. This gave me a smooth side seam all the way. I didn't want a pleat, so was going to make it into a dart. Found I didn't need to because my ever expanding waistline needed the extra material, I guess in this case, that's a good thing. Didn't want that pleat/dart anyway. I scooped and straightened the front crotch about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch. Shortened both front and back leg length about 4 inches. To get that narrow look on the envelope, I removed about 3 inches total from front and back leg(1 and a half on inseam and 1 and a half on side seam), starting at bottom hem and tapering to nothing just above the knee.
Now for the back: For those of you who have been following my pants fitting journey, you will know that I have a problem with the lower 2 inches of my butt grabbing the material. I don't have a flat butt, I have a low one. I need a lower back crotch curve. I decided to try the wedge cut again. I had done this a while back and almost got it right, but then stopped using it for some reason. I think it's because you don't really see it in the fitting books and the wedge alone, never solved the problem...every book I have, falls back to "scooping"...and the amount of scooping I would have to do, just ruins the entire pant.
I made two wedge cuts from the center back inseam to, but not through, the side seam. One, I spread about a half inch, the other, about 3/8. I just barely scooped a tiny bit from the back crotch. Also added about 5/8 inch to the back crotch point. A one half inch Fish Eye Dart eliminated a lot of the extra material at the top of my thighs. I added the amount removed by the Fish Eye Dart, to the upper side seam(back only) and the back crotch point. The height added to the crotch point makes a bit of a curve. Woggy did a great write up on all of this in a pants thread here on PR.
I also added about 3/8 of an inch, along the back side seam only, from waist line to the crotch area, tapering to nothing from there.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I'm going to make this again. It's the best fitting pair of slacks I've had in a very long time. I would recommend this pattern to others.
Conclusion: I like the size of the leg in this pattern, after I tapered it. It's a basic slacks pattern, if you delete the pleat. Burda starts with a different crotch draft, so that may be what has helped me get this fit so close to perfect, even with all the alterations I had to make. Being dark material, it's hard to see the "fit" in these pictures. In the back you will see a few, light drag lines and the occasional wrinkle, but as soon as I move or twist in a different direction, they disappear. The back picture is also skewed because I'm holding the camera on my shoulder. I'm not going to obsess about the lines and wrinkles...these pants are 90% where I want to be. That's pretty darn good in my world