|Pattern Description: |
This is my own semi-self drafted pattern from an old (1990's) Burda Magazine. The original pants were very wide leg, had a belted waistband and cuton pockets. I no longer have the magazine, due to a sewing room purge so I can't describe it more.
Being as this was an old Burda pattern, and it was modified into my own TNT (I since got rid of the mag) I can't remember the size. Maybe a 44? Maybe a 40?
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
No. Read on
Were the instructions easy to follow?
There were no instructions in the original magazine, but in morphing these as I did, I relied on my trusty Singer Sewing Pants That Fit book and all the hard copy notes I took from a Pants Fitting Class here on PR.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the European fit in the crotch; no dislikes. But trying to trace multiple lines on top of lines, as the magazines were in that day, was confusing. I couldn't remember what color I was--red? blue? green?
Two yards of 54" wide wool gabardine in a small check I bought from...Fabric Mart? Can't remember as it was so long ago, but I usually get my fabric from them. Another 2 yards of lining, as I lined them with a chocolate brown polyester lining, that I washed. Easy to work with, but I had to make serger adjustments because the fabric puckered.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
This pattern started in a Burda magazine showing a woman wearing a safari shirt with very wide lapels (that's how old it was). The pants originally had a belted wide waistband, with belt loops and large pleats near the waist, and very wide legs.
Being as I wanted jeans from the original pattern, I narrowed the legs, narrowed the waistband, removed the pleats by rotating the fullness, turned the back pleats into a yoke, shortened the crotch length and changed the location of the knee as I have long legs and the lower portion is longer than the upper, and reshaped the pockets. This was all based on a class I took here on PR. Other alterations were done via Singer's Sewing Pants that Fit book. I spent some time adjusting and readjusting the pattern, over a span of several days and lots of pencil marks and pictures.
Then for the Mini-Wardrobe is contest, I decided I wanted to change it back into trousers, but wanted darts and no waistband or pockets because I wanted to line them. So I:
1) Widened the legs,
2) Slashed and spread near the waist to make darts,
3) Raised the waist so the top of the pant would hit my natural waistline, 4) Added a back zip instead of a fly front. SEE PHOTO HERE
5) Removed the pockets
6) Lowered the crotch point
Then I remembered a trick that Sandra Betzina used in her Pant Construction Techniques class about making a button loop in the back. Such a nice added touch! Picture is here.
Also, when I did my muslin, I noticed a lot of fullness at the side seam near my hip. I remembered what Peggy Sagers has so often said in her webcasts--Find your favorite armhole/hipline. Well, I didn't have any "favorites" to choose from, so I placed a piece of paper on my wall, stood up against it, and then penciled down my side to see what my side curve looked like. Side curve picture Was I shocked! My side at the waist goes in, then comes out--no grief. But then near the top of the hipline, it goes in again. Oh my! Never would have known. So I got the numbers off my french curve and adjusted the side seam.
I also decided I'd challenge myself and bond with invisible zippers. I gave up on them years ago as I was so afraid as to difficult they were, or so I was told. But HERE is proof that the zip wasn't half bad!
Because the fabric was so wonderfully drapey, I decided I needed some type of stabilizer near the waist edge to keep it from stretching. So I added stay tape. see photo here I like using selveges from quilting fabric, and being as I quilt too, I have an abundance!
Here are several photos:
Not too bad, when I realize I've lost 20 pounds and I was going on old measurements. I could tweak the fine wrinkles in the back, but heck, why bother? I'm pretty happy with the fit when I realize how much time I spent with the pattern.
Then I drafted it into a pullon pant pattern, and that review is HERE.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Well, I'll keep the jeans pattern, and I'll keep this pants pattern as they are both my TNTs. I also have the pullons, so that pretty well explains my answer to this question.
Recommending it to others? Well, the magazine was so old and I no longer have it. And I don't think that with all the work I've done, I'd want to give this pattern to someone--not unless they had my exact body shape and wanted to pay me a lot of money. ;)
This was fun to do. It also forced me to become familiar with an invisible zip. Back in the day, when I was roaming with dinosaurs, I was afraid to sew an invisible zip--always felt that they were "complicated". But this time I persevered, and I really like them.
Also, more to the story...I broke the wrist of my dominant hand this summer, and in the middle of the vegetable gardening. These pants, and all the changes, etc., were done with that broken wrist--hard cast and all. Thank goodness for rotary cutters, the fabric weights I got from a fellow PR memberSEE PHOTO HERE AND HERE (Thanks, Jane!), a sewing machine with a large harp, and a lot of time and patience to do this.