Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Indygo Junction: IJ740 (Trench Topper) - Type:Coat/Jacket |
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|About Lynnelle |
|Member since: 4/8/07 |
|Reviews written: 66|
|Favored by: 55 people|
|patterns reviewed: 60|
|Posted on:||9/15/13 8:50 AM |
More Info provided by Lynnelle
|Pattern Rating:||Recommend, with Modifications |
|Fabric:||Upholstery Tapestry [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|Pattern Description (taken from the website): "Three coats, from classic to whimsical, take you anywhere with their versatile longer length. All are encircled with a lower band to blend or punctuate. Seaming softly shapes them for a flattering fit. Selections include topper with a spirited ensemble of pieced fabrics adorning the cuff and lower band as well as a creatively placed pocket. Offered also is a 3/4 cuffed sleeve, mid-thigh length graced with a snappy back belt. Lastly, a sumptuous rendition with asymmetric 3-button closure, attached belt and daringly different bell sleeve. The Trench Topper is a slightly fitted jacket. Personal preference comes in to play when deciding your choice in sizing."|
Pattern Sizing: The pattern ranges in size from S (34.5-35.5" bust) to XL (43-45" bust). Based on my full bust measurement and by comparing the pattern pieces to another pattern, I made view 1 in an XL. I went with the larger size for two reasons: (1) this is a coat to be worn over other clothes, and (2) my fabric is very thick.
Note on sizing: The distance between size cutting lines is pretty small; the difference between an L and XL is 1/8". If you want to make this pattern, I suggest doing a muslin first to check the fit.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, identical considering that I used the exact same fabric! I bought the pattern first and when I saw the fabric, I snatched it up immediately. It's a home dec fabric purchased from Hancock's in 2006 or 2007 (before they abandoned Michigan).
Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were straightforward, but I didn't follow them. I assembled the entire front and back with bands and sewed the side seams last. This gave me the opportunity to fit the sides as I went along.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I liked the whimsical nature of the coat. It's not a traditional trench coat, but it has trench coat elements. Plus I had the same fabric, so I knew which version I was going to make.
Fabric & Notions:
- really thick upholstery fabric for the shell
- Kasha flannel-backed satin for the lining
- piping between the facing a lining (This is my first time adding piping to a jacket/coat. This is so happening again.)
- fusible interfacing for the facings, collar, and hems
- bias-cut polar fleece strips for sleeve heads
- size 90/14 needle and walking foot
- serger to finish raw edges
- large snaps
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Oh boy. There were quite a few changes to this pattern. Briefly, I did a non-traditional FBA, swayback adjustment, bicep adjustment, corrected pattern errors, made a new upper collar because the original was too big, created a bias under collar, and made separate lining pieces using Tasia's (from Sewaholic) tutorial. For much more detailed information, please follow the links below.
- Sizing & Alterations
- Pattern Errors
- Altering the Upper Collar
- Creating Lining Pieces
The raw edges were finished first on my serger, sewn together, and then pressed open. For the lining, the edges were sewn, serged, and pressed to one side.
I added a back stay made of pre-washed muslin and inserted sleeve heads for cap support.
As mentioned before, I added a full lining and inserted piping between the facing and lining. I didn't bag the lining because I wanted to maintain access to the inside in case I need to adjust the seams or repair weak spots. The fabric ravels terribly and even though I finished the edges first, I am not sure how it will hold up after lots of wear.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Having made all of the adjustments, I know that I can sew it again straight from the envelope. Will I? Probably not. I have at least one more coat that I'd like to make before winter. I do recommend that others try this pattern. Once the mistakes are corrected and fit is achieved, everything goes together rather smoothly. The seamlines match up and the drafting is pretty good.
Conclusion: I adore this coat. It's rather warm and perfect for fall weather. I conquered my fear of cutting into this fabric and delighted with the result.
back on me
front on dress form
side on dress form
back on dress form
inside the sleeve
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