Pattern with more than 5 reviews!
|Simplicity: 1606 (Misses and Petite Dress) - Type:Dresses |
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|Reviewed by:||Terri A|
|About Terri A |
|Member since: 1/16/08 |
|Reviews written: 98|
|Favored by: 67 people|
|patterns reviewed: 86|
|Posted on:||9/4/13 11:41 PM |
|Last Updated:||9/10/13 2:57 PM|
Simplicity Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|See other patterns in this category: Dresses |
|Available for sale on PR: $18.95 (See envelope) |
|Fabric:||Cotton [See other projects in this fabric]|
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|I have added hemming info at bottom and snapshots including all five bridesmaids dresses from this pattern. I may be able to get a better photo later! ;)|
1606 Misses' & Miss Petite Amazing Fit Dress
Misses' & Miss Petite dress has princess-seamed bodice, back zip, waistline seam & flared skirt. Halter, jewel neck or sweetheart with (optional) lace overlay. Individual patterns for A, B, C & D bust.
This dress is one of a total of five bridesmaids dresses.
Will update soon with more photos on the girls.
These ranged from size six A cup to size ten C cup. The C cup was 2.5 inch difference from UB to Bust and it was just right if not big.
I ended up needing an extra 5/8" taken in at top of each front princess seam and tapered to nothing using a french curve.
Cotton print, cotton lining.
DO consider underlining if you have any concerns about the weight of the fabric!
When choosing the prints with the bride, I made extensive use of Evernote and used photos to make a Skitch story board. It included an appealing line-up of the fabrics in thumbnails to show the bride how the girls might stand to not clash with each other, with materials information too.
There is a significant amount of boning to buy as well and an invisible zipper if you are using that instead of the regular zip they recommend.
For the boning, you only need to measure one half of the bodice boning lengths and then cut a second of each one for the other side of the bodice. Since they have you cut 2 SA and 1/4" off each end anyway, I went ahead and cut them an inch and three quarters less than the length of the seam and merely filed off each corner to make it rounded and smooth. Less waste as this stuff is $3 + yd. File the corners as you would a fingernail. Draw it across from the outside toward the center and don't saw back and forth. The boning is comprised of strips of plastic and sawing will separate these strips like string cheese leaving you with pokey bits and a mess.
Cut lengths exactly and file off corners...
I found it useful to line the boning up in order of use from left to right across the bodice.
When attaching the straps be sure to angle them correctly! When you baste on the straps put the pointy slant to the outside and pin the strap to the bodice. It looks wrong but once sandwiched into the lining and turned it will then angle toward the neck...
Also, I definitely recommend putting some care and attention to cutting the straps in the part of the print you want to flow from the connecting point at the print on the bodice. I cut extra straps if need be and try them all, deciding which looks the nicest.
I used an invisible zip at back on this version.
Back and invisible zip.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. It's a good one to make for this latest trend of cotton bridal party dresses.
Set on Flickr thus far.
I will be adding more photos to the set as I go.
I did all machine finishing on the lined bodice, which I noticed later is actually how the instructions have you do it as opposed to slipstitching per usual.
Lining before machine stitching the bodice to the waist.
Small stitch length at corners helped me turn these corners nicely.
Although this pattern description on the first page says "lapped zipper" in the Amazing Fit Description on page 1/4 I see no evidence of that being the case. I used an invisible zip, but in Step 10 they have you installing a regular zipper.
For the hem, I pin marked the hem length and measured down from there about 7/8". Then, I set a rubberband on a yardstick at that second pin, and measured all around the dress, parallel to the floor, marking with pins.
Next, I marked the entry point of each pen and trued it all smoothly with a french curve. Then, (standard machined narrow hem instruction) I sewed along that line, turned and pressed up along the stitching. Then, stitched again 3/8" from that line, turned up again and did the final line of stitching that shows on outside.
This narrow hem made a much better result on the full circle skirt. Anything bigger and you likely get ugly drag lines in the hem, no matter how long you let the dress hang for the bias to fall, or how much you press it. Narrower is better in this case, I think.
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