|I want to put in a good word for large bold prints in combination with simple, loose patterns. I know some people avoid large prints because they can add pounds visually, but hey, would you rather wear a to-die-for print and look a bit chubbier than usual, or do you want to look like a mouse, but slim?|
I'm afraid this mouse has little chance of looking slim, being the heaviest I have been in years, so I might as well roar! Of course, a bold print has a look-at-me factor not everyone wants, but I for once don't spend hours at the sewing machine so I can blend into the background. Courage, I say!
I have made the Fave Top pattern several times already in knits, but this is the first time I have attempted it in a woven. I don't think it would work very well in something heavy and stiff, so lucky I wasn't going to do that. Instead I had a silk charmeuse in my stash which was just the thing to wear to an upcoming party. Unfortunately I had next to no time as it was short notice and I have been very busy at work, so the fave top was ideal. Normally this patten takes about an hour+ with a knit, but the charmeuse is slippery and not terribly cooperative, so it was more like 2 hours.
I also decided to vary the pattern a bit, taking the idea from this drawing I found on pinterest. Unfortunately I can't trace it back to the website it came from, so I don't know who to thank. i wish I did, as I really like the idea and will use it more than once.
So, I folded my fabric in half lenghtwise, as you do, took the back pattern piece and laid it out in such a way that the top of the shoulder/sleeve was almost horizontal, but not quite. The pattern piece touched the fold of the fabric at the top, but not at the bottom, it was angled away to allow the sleeve to be more horizontal. I did the same with the front piece in such a way that there would be no shoulder/upper arm seam. You can keep this seam of course, but i thought it would look better not to interrupt the print.
Where the side seams hit the selvage you lengthen the garment as per the drawing. I hate to waste fabric, so I made the tunic as long as my fabric would allow. The piece I had was 1.8m long.
You have to finesse the neck a bit, because, as you put the pattern pieces at an angle, the neckline will change from a wide, shallow neck to a deep, more rounded neck. If you like this well and good, if not recut as you wish. With a woven you must also make sure that you can get your head through the opening, as it won't stretch. Ask me how i know.
The rest is easy. Sew up the side seams with your SM, or serger if you like, then you are ready to hem! I made a 10cm hem at the bottom edge after rolling and stitching the side selvages (look at the drawing to understand what I mean).
My fabric was wide enough for 3/4 sleeves. I finished them with 3cm cuffs, as this looked better to me than a fold-over hem.
The neckline I finished with a bias strip, turned to the inside and top stitched.
And there you have it. I bought the silk at half price for under $20, plus some enjoyable planning and only 2 hours actual work. The pattern was free. What's not to like?