|I made this jacket to wear to my sister's wedding, and I wanted it to have a real subtle wow factor. So the outside was relatively sedate, and the lining was really bold.|
Fitted, partially interfaced, lined to edge jacket, with raised back neckline and front lapels, detail front and back with princess seams and flared sleeves with seam. Semi-fitted lined skirt with detail seams, back pleats, contour waist, side zipper closing and mid-knee length.
My envelope was 16-20.
Jacket: I've made a size 16 for the waist, and redrafted to a size 12 for the bust and shoulders (the pattern is now out of print so I cant buy another size!). Please see my profile if you would like to check my measurements.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I've already made a toile, so can safely say it looks like the envelope, apart from the sleeves for the jacket which I have altered.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
They are pretty consistent, but not particularly great. Spelling mistakes, slightly confusing instructions for top stitching on the skirt, and I dont like the order they do things. I ignored how they suggested sewing lining and jacket hems together and slip stitching (no way!) the lining sleeves to the body. I left the hem hanging free for the lining.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love the peplum, highly flattering front for full tummy types like me!
I bought this pattern originally because of the skirt, lovely lines and the back is a real show stopper.
A lovely to work with wool mix boucle for the jacket. This stuff presses like a dream. You have to be careful when unpicking though as it it shreds quite easily. Fortunately the fact practically the entire body is interfaced neatly solved this problem.
The lining is an armani silk for the jacket. It's really beautiful.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Altered the sleeves to create slim fitting end. I lengthened them by 8cm.
Took in the side seams by about a quarter inch (tapered from under arm. It now has virtually zero ease around the waist. My waist is about 31 inches if it helps with others figuring out measurements.
I added bound button holes and found them surprisingly (after practising first on a test sample) straight forward compared to my usual heart in mouth machine button holes. I might (gasp) be doing them again in future given the nice finish.
I did have a slight hiccup when making the matching "windows" in the lining. My previously nice study interlining - when I pulled a thread out of it - on one of the windows decided to rapidly unravel. I swiftly hand stitched round the loose fibres to stabilise it. Maybe I put too much pressure on it when trying remove the water dissolving ink I used to mark them out?
I also (to match up the lining like I wanted) cut out the entire lining by single layer. This took two evenings but was worth as I managed to match everything up how I planned.
Love this jacket, and got a number of compliments about it at the wedding. The only snag is when I lean back in a chair the peplum gets creased so I have to repress that aspect each time. I also have to get used to wearing something with so little ease round the waist when sitting (cant say I have great posture).
So, would I recommend? yes I would, but use it for the design rather than the instructions. Following the standard jacket construction is much better.
for more close up photos please click here to go to my blog
Edited to add: in answer to the question of getting the bound buttonhole windows to line up, I used a tutorial on this website:
which was very helpful (it has you mark everything, including the facings, at the same time to ensure accuracy) and then slip stitched the window to the bound buttonhole to ensure they lined up whenever the buttons goes through. Worked a treat!