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|Reviewed by:||Laurasews|| |
|Posted on:||5/6/14 5:29 PM |
McCall's Pattern Info
|Pattern Rating:||Highly Recommend |
|Review Rating:|| Very Helpful by 2 people |
|See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket |
|Fabric:||Denim [See other projects in this fabric]|
|Pattern Description: |
Misses Unlined Jacket: Fitted, unlined jacket has princess seams, patch pockets with flaps, collar and collar band, long, two-piece sleeves with cuffs.
This is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern. The perfect jean jacket.
Standard sizing. My pattern was multi-sized, including 8-10-12-14 in one envelopeI started with a size 10 based on my upper bust measurement, and started adjusting from there. I am very please with the fit through the shoulders and neck based on choosing pattern sizes by this method. When I chose patterns by my full bust, they were slightly too large in the neck and shoulders.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Mine resulted in the same silhouette, which is what I like about this pattern. I did move the pockets down below the waist, however. More on that below.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are very good. They provide detailed information on fitting which is invaluable. I actually fit this pattern at a Sewing Camp with Marta Alto, so we followed these instructions precisely. Marta, of course, could identify my fit issues in her sleep, so it went much quicker with her guidance.
The construction instructions were fine too.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the lines of the pattern. The denim jacket look, with a nice sleek princess line.
Two things to be aware of:
- the cuff is way too long (too large around the wrist). I removed some length, and also added some small pleats to the underarm sleeve piece to get a good fit on the cuff. Since this is a jacket, I wanted to be able to pull the jacket on without undoing the button on the cuff, so adjusted the length of the cuff so that it would fit over my hand...not too tight.
- I took a style risk and moved the pockets down below the waist. When I attempted to installed them over the bust, there was too much curvature due to the princess line, and my FBA. They were never going to lay flat. Now that it is complete, I actually like the look. I am a C-cup, so I think this could be an issue for many people.
Stretch denim - 2-3 % lycra. The jacket would fit fine without the lycra and does not require stretch, but I wanted to use stash fabric, so I used what I had.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Besides moving the patch pockets and flaps and making the cuff smaller, I made my personal fit adjustments (the pattern instructions walk you through making these adjustments before cutting fabric):
- 3/4" FBA to the princess pattern.
- 3/8" broad back adjustment
- Rotated shoulder point forward 3/8" (added to back and removed from front outside shoulder point.
- 1/4" sway back adjustment (across the two back princess pieces)
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
This is my second time sewing this pattern. I made it in some dupioni silk and wore it until the seams started shredding. Unfortunately, this wasn't too long...I should have reinforced the silk. I will definitely keep this pattern around because one can always use a jean jacket in cute printed denim, maybe velvet, etc. This is the type of pattern that I see made up in various cool fabrics in the Cold Water Creek catalogs. I absolutely recommend this pattern to others, but take note of the cuff and pocket issues.
A great pattern that results in a nice silhouette. I will wear this jacket constantly this fall.
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