|This is one of my garments for the Mini-Wardrobe contest|
Blouse with 3/4 length sleeves, Chelsea collar and a gathered yoke. Two waist darts cinch the waist nicely.
The pattern envelope contains a full size pattern and a detailed instruction booklet. This pattern is fully bilingual (french/english).
Sizes: European sizes 34 to 46
I made a size 40, for bust 92cm / 36.25". My bust is 36", I found the sizing to be pretty good, I made a small increase in the back at bust level.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, except for my change in length so that I can wear it outside or tucked in.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Very good, they come in a little book which includes ideas for alternative versions. I only made one change to the order in that I fitted the collar before I sewed the side seams.
What I like about the pattern
This pattern is so well drafted, everything matches precisely, even without stay stitching the neck.
This blouse is a very flattering fitted shape through the waist but just slips on over the head.
I have previously tried Collette Jasmine and Sewaholic Alma, I won't be making them again, this is the blouse for me.
The collar drafting is impeccible, the collar is one piece which joins at the front. The facing is one piece which joins at the back. This solves the problem of lumpy shoulder or back seams where there are many layers of seam allowances together. (a problem I had with the Jasmine and Alma blouses)
I haven't worn the long sleeved version yet, but wore the sleeveless one lots in the summer.
What I dislike
There is a slight problem with the facing flipping out, not a great one, but one I would like to solve.
Recommended fabric: Use lightweight, drapey fabrics such as cotton batiste, cotton and linen voile, silk blends.
I used a fine cotton lycra which I was given by Sheila, one of my European group of friends who meet up a couple of times a year.
The fabric was originally a very pale pink, it went into the washing machine with olive dye and came out a wonderful colour Plain olive
I decided I wanted a contrast for the collar and also to make flat piping on the edges of the yoke. I flicked diluted discharge paste onto the green fabric, this made the splotches turn tan.
When dried, you iron the fabric and the dye discharges – in the photo you can just see the imprint of the iron.
I then made a small amount of hand dye in back and flicked that on, so that the fabric will
also tone with the black trousers I am making in the mini-wardrobe contest.
I set this dye in the microwave. This is a technique I use quite frequently, but usually with jersey type fabric without lycra. Unfortunately on the second go of black spots, as the fabric rotated in the microwave, I could smell burning – I rescued the fabric which now had burnt patches, fortunately enough was left between the burnt bits.
Black spots and burnt holes
Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made
- I shortened the pattern by about 1.5 inches.
- I increased the back from armhole to waist by about 0.5cm
- The yoke positioning means that it is easy to make adjustments for a rounded back, I can reduce the back armhole at the lower back where it meets the yoke. I also reduced the front armhole and shoulder width, each by about 0.25 inch.
- I flat piped the bottom of the front and back yoke with bias made from the contrast fabric. I did this by cutting bias strips 4cm wide, folding them in half and lining the edges up with the yoke edge. This is then encased between the yoke and the lower front and back.
- Link to Couturestuff tutorial
- I followed the website advice and made the neck facing 3cm wider than the original pattern piece.
- I lengthened the sleeves but otherwise used the pattern, simply extending the line of the mid length sleeves. I put cuffs at the wrist.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes and Yes
I love this pattern, I have made it previously in a sleeveless version and wore that version many times in our hot British summer. I definitely recommend it to others
I have just read this through and realise that half the measurements I have given are in inches, the rest in cm. This is how I work, the UK converted from inches to cm when I was in my teens, I have since then been 'bilingual' with my measurements. I use what ever works best at the time.
A brilliant blouse, comfy to wear, a joy to sew.