Originally for the RTW competition earlier this year I had planned to sew this gorgeous hand painted black and white striped pleated sundress. Click Here back
But the complexity of the pleats to fit the width of the stripes and my waist, not to mention painting the fabric....eluded me.
But I would not give up. I just LOVE this style. So bold and unique. And to replicate that texture, that hand painted brush stroked look.
So I returned with ambition to make it for the Mini Wardrobe competition. with tuxedo jacket close up front Pattern Description:
Princess seamed bodice with wide straps. My guide was Burda Style 6/99 # 102. I will take a picture and upload pattern photo later.
Skirt 2/13 # 133.
BUT I needed side seams straight on grain so no chevroning of stripes. This pattern had fairly straight side seams. See more alterations below re changing those darn pleats to fit width of painted stripes LOL Pattern Sizing:
I used a 36 for bodice so it would be snug and 38 my usual for skirt pieces. But I changed pleats/ width etc so it would fit bodice waist seam. Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
No because completely different designs. Were the instructions easy to follow?
Bodice a piece of cake. Skirt ohh laa laa. Not a technical SEWING difficulty but a puzzle. I wanted box pleats. I wanted two to meet in middle then another set. Plus one more folding to center (Half box pleat) And to fit circumference of waist. And width of stripe had to be such that a little bit of the black showed on edges. Click Here I kept using different coloured markers to finally get right width. And yes width of each pleat and under pleat must be exact same width. But I DID it. And since my back bodice is about one inch narrower than front I had to take sides seams in a bit more. I was NOT about to readjust pleats.
And then the PAINTING of the fabric. I sewed up bodice front and back before painting so stripes matched perfectly. bodice pre painting I marked with pencil ALL the darn stripes for skirt and bodice.
I started WAY too late. A week ago Sunday. What do I know about fabric painting??
I knew from Dharma Trading to put fixative in. I painted straps first. Easy. Hung on line. Then bodice. On newspaper. But it didn't take too long so it peeled off ...sort of
Ohheeww Then huge front skirt piece. On newspaper on floor. And I dripped on the white !!!! Oh well, I kept going. But then could barely peel it off. It had stuck to newspaper !!!! Finally got it off to line
But it flapped onto itself with horrid smudges.
I had been flippin' working on the ##*** skirt all day !!
I wept. I was spent ....
My dear Hubbie said have some wine...its now 8pm Sun and dress is not painted.
Wailing and gnashing of teeth.
I almost said to **%%ell with it and make a simple black and white stripe knit dress.
No I want my Dolce and Gabbana dress !!
Luckily I had more fabric and I hadn't painted backs yet.
Sooooo Wed I had a free afternoon. So on my cutting table on huge sheets of plastic I re painted a front and did the backs.
Huge stomach ache butIi DID IT !!!! No smudges !!! I let dry flat till next day and then on line for 3 days , then washed.
I didn't get to sew dress till Sat, 3 days till competition ends.
Lining put in, invisible zipper. back zipper Hem hand sewn ...took f o r e v e r. What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love the style The complexity of drafting pleats see above hahahahaha Fabric Used:
A lovely white crinkle embroidered cotton. I wanted a fabric with texture like the original D & G.
White ambiance lining.
Black fabric paint from Dharma Trading
And Versitex fixer so I don't need to heat set.
After my trials and tribulations I really want to paint more fabric. So original looking. close up of stripes Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
lengthened bodice so it sits about and inch below waist just like original D & G dress
Pleat alterations...too many to explain LOL. Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
A cute style sundress. Now since I have muslin I can make again. maybe another hand painted version ? Conclusion:
I LOVE my dress! Its still in 90's here. I can still get a lot of wear out of it.
So bold and unique looking.
Truly a labor of love,
And a lesson to NEVER give up