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Vogue Patterns: 8333 (MISSES'/MISSES' PETITE JACKET) thumbsup - Type:Coat/Jacket
Review submitted in 2013 Lined Jacket Contest Contest    printable version
Viewed 921 times 12 more reviews
Review rated Helpful by 2 people    Very Helpful by 26 people   
Reviewed by:divabuddha
photo
About divabuddhastarstar
NC USA
Member since: 5/9/12
Reviews written: 63
Sewing skills:Intermediate
Favored by: 25 people
patterns reviewed: 63
Bio: more...
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Posted on:10/9/13 10:58 AM
Last Updated:10/31/13 12:28 PM
Project Photo:Vogue Patterns: 8333 by divabuddha

Vogue Patterns: 8333 by divabuddha  Vogue Patterns: 8333 by divabuddha  
Pattern Photo:Vogue Patterns 8333
Vogue Patterns Pattern Info
Pattern Rating:Mediocre Pattern
See other patterns in this category: Coat/Jacket    
Available for sale on PR: $25.00 (See envelope) Click to Buy
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UPDATE: I wanted to add a few more snaps and links to "finish out" this review.

First the pics...I have been wearing this jacket on a non-stop rotation with a few of the other jackets I've made. It's super.
My jacket with my new favorite cords!
Closer view
I really really love the shaping at the bottom and the wider lapel.

Second, and really the prime reason for the update. I (almost immediately) made this jacket again because I wanted a version with longer sleeves. I wanted to provide a link to that review for anyone who might want to sew it. Specifically because in that review I added a step-by-step tutorial (with picture) of how to assemble the front pocket/pleat (the dread pirate awful steps 7-12 from version B). So click here for that review/tutorial.

And then I loved that jacket so much.... I made a suit!!! EEEK!!!
Crazy. Awesome.

I haven't worn the full suit yet, but I have rocked the pants and jacket separately several times

_____________________________________________________

Let me begin by saying....on the positive, half-full cup side....I love this little number, and think it's sass-tacular. I'm SUPER happy with how it ended up, the pattern placement, and the curved front hem is very sweet. The half-empty cup side is that I think this pattern isn't really that great. And it's Vogue. And Claire Schaeffer! And other people who reviewed it loved it. The damn thing should have sewed itself. But no, and I'll expound why below, I was really disappointed in it. Luckily, I only paid $3.99 for it, but if I paid full price for it I'd be maaaaaaaaaad. Okay, I criticized Claire Schaeffer....now I'm sitting and waiting for the sewing guild to knock on my door and confiscate my machine.

Front
Back
Lapel
Front buttons
Pocket detail
Side view
Lining
Vented sleeve


Apologies for the length of my review....as I started typing I realized I had a lot to say.

Pattern Description:
Claire Schaeffer's Custom Couture Collections: Semi-fitted, lined, partially interfaced below waist jacket with princess seams, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads (I didn't use those, my shoulders require no padding), side panels, and 2-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. View A & B are the same jacket. View A used couture construction & View B has more standard, machine-based, construction. I ended up referencing both sets of instructions.

Pattern Sizing:
6-10. I made the ten. It's good. Comfy. I can chase a dog in this jacket. If I made it again and wanted something more formal/form fitting I might try the 8.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I guess. After staring at the picture on the envelope I realized it was sort of equestrian. That's not really my style. I thought the only way this pattern might work for me was to make a statement jacket to go with jeans and such. So the shape is the same, but the "feel" is quite different.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Okay, here's where things get really dicey for me. I'm really loathe to criticize, but I think they were kind of bad. Or at least mediocre, and at times difficult to process. Other reviewers just raved for them, and maybe I'm just being really dense, but they were a hot mess, for me. And truth be told, I'm no couture sewer, so much of those details are not something I would use. I love my machine. It sews way better than I do. But normally I'm an written instruction junkie. I've never been able to take a class in sewing or pattern making, and I taught myself to sew from books and patterns over the last two years. I love an instruction. I'm that kind of girl.

There are 106 steps for View A, and 55 for View B, plus a bunch of Claire's Hints. I'm pretty comfortable making jackets/coats, but I read them all just for educations sake. I liked some of the tips, so that was interesting; however, a good deal of the instructions weren't very clearly written, and a few of the illustrations to go along with them left me thinking "what the heck is that supposed to be?". I found myself going back to the couture version directions to see if that would be easier to process. And they really weren't much better.

Steps 7-12 for View B literally drove me to drink. It's the portion where you create the small pleat on the front panels by the pockets. It's really the only real unique feature of the coat - the rest is pretty standard jacket construction. I swore a lot. I read them over and over (both A & B's instructions, which were different), and tried them several time and NOPE. I got so frustrated I drew the lines directly on the wrong side of the self with a pen, aaaaaaaand NOPE. I eventually had to trust the actual pattern (which is drafted well), trust the geometry of it all (knowing I'd be right when I arc in the front panel lined up properly), and figure it out on my own. This is where the glass of wine came into play. And I did. There is one tuck, and one fold - and none of the lines on the original pattern lined up properly. The original lines are in blue (a little hard to see), my notes in red.
One Tuck, a basting stitch, a line of stitches to enclose the pocket...
That flap on the edge folds in to make part of the pocket (It's like a folded-in facing). So in this picture (here) the left side of the "pleat" is the tuck, and the right side the fold, creating the pocket. Sorry to be so wordy, but this took me FOREVER to figure out, and I thought maybe it could help someone else......
GWAAAAAAAARRR!!! My poor husband retreated to his man cave during this process in fear for his life. You know, kind of how you see people slowing backing away from a wild animal on television? Kind of like that. Curse you steps 7 thru 12.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I'm in a jacket/coat phase right now. And I saw this at Joann's during a sale. I bought it because it was Vogue. And Claire Schaeffer. And $3.99.

Fabric Used:
I got this cotton from Joann's Red Tag section. Cost about $6 total. Add buttons and lining fabric (which I got from an old lining bundle from Fabric Mart) and this jacket comes in under the $15 mark, which is pretty flippin' awesome.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Here is the good side of this pattern. The pattern draft itself is solid. What I really didn't care for were the instructions and assembly. What I changed, I changed out of preference. I didn't like how she attached the lining to the jacket. I prefer to have a complete shell with an attached facing, and a fully assembled lining (with sleeves inserted) so when I bag the lining the set of stitches run along the lining edges against the facing and the collar base. Her version bags the lining at the outer edge of the lapel/collar of the shell and the full lining (facings and lining attached as one piece). I don't dig that so much because I like to have the collar and lapel completely done and to my liking. Then just take that last step to bag the lining (which will be a seam on the interior of the jacket, and finish the hem.

So I redrafted those pieces to insert them that way. It's not too difficult to do. The facing and side front lining together are basically the same as the front panel with the dart and the excess piece for the pocket removed (check it out ). I closed the dart and slashed the side open, then laid the two lining pieces on top to make sure they lined up (like this). Once they did I redrew a new stitching line and then the two cutting lines on either side, and traced off my new pieces.
Ta-dah!
Once I got to attaching the lining to the facing/collar, I felt pretty confident about my pattern re-draft, but to be on the safe side I used steam-a-seam to attach the two.
Steam that seam!
It allowed me a test run to see if things lined up, and to try it on. If I was off I could just pull them apart and re-adjust with my fingers. Luckily it worked just fine, and then I could just stitch them up permanently without using any pins.

I would have lengthened the sleeves 3" if I could have, but I squeeze this pattern out of my fabric with just scraps to spare. Honestly, the sleeves are too short for me now, so I'm most likely going to roll the cuff for a 3/4 length effect.

The other big consideration was pattern placement. All I knew is that I wanted the circular main pattern to run down either side of the front, down the sleeve, and directly down center back. The rest I didn't sweat too much. Although, when I was cutting I did cut out in a single layer and then cut the second piece out so I exactly mirrored the first. That way everything would be symmetrical throughout the jacket. It wouldn't be perfectly lined up everywhere, which is fine by me.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
You know, I'm not sure. I love the jacket, but the fact that it took two days of sewing makes me cranky...but now that I have the redrafted bits, and marked the proper tucks/folds/etc for the front pieces...I'm very tempted. I've worn this coat for the last two days and it very flattering.

Conclusion:
This was actually just a wearable muslin for me, but I ended up kind of loving it so much I'm just tossing it in the ring for the contest this month. It's a little different, and so am I - so I guess that's a perfect fit.
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42 Comments      Login to Add a Comment
Quickie said...
I love your version of the jacket. You showde us that this office-like shape can also be made very informal- looking ?I like your fabric
10/9/13 11:29 AM
Kiawe said...
Great jacket. Thanks for the detailed review. I have been thinking about making this in a patterned fabric.
10/9/13 11:57 AM
grays08 said...
Beautiful jacket and love how you used the fabric, red tag? - no way girl, where is that stuff in my store, lol! I love your review and the helpfulness of it. I also feel for you, I think it's like a fussy jacket thing because I'm working on a men's suit jacket right now for the contest that has taken me two days to cut so the sewing? Umph, lord help me if it takes me long there or my DH will be retreating to the man cave for fear of his life too! Just the cutting process has pushed me over the edge almost! LOL, great review, and I really appreciate you taking the time to document your journey as it's very helpful. = )
10/9/13 12:17 PM
frame said...
I am really glad you reviewed this and gave your honest assessment of the instructions. Your jacket turned out looking terrific in spite of the instructions, so great job!
10/9/13 12:21 PM
VogueMistress said...
Great review. I have also been working on this jacket (for a lot longer than 2 days). I agree that some of the instructions are vague at best. I also own Claire's Couture Sewing book and have referred to it often during this process.
10/9/13 12:28 PM
ArtAttack said...
WOW! This is killer! I love it! I own this pattern and never finished the jacket. I totally agree with your assessment of Claire's instructions. I guess that make 2 machines that will get confiscated now! Great review.
10/9/13 12:40 PM
Re Becca said...
The whole jacket looks pretty flippin' awesome, more like a million bucks than 15. Thanks for the thorough and concise information on your journey. I have this jacket and at one time I cut it out (totally forgot until I saw your review) and I couldn't get past the pocket instructions so I am totally in awe of your finished product. The shape of the sides and the collar are both really slimming. I know it was a pain but I think you will like wearing it so much and will get tons of compliments.
10/9/13 12:48 PM
divabuddha said...
Thanks ladies! And thanks so much for mentioning your experiences with this pattern....I was beginning to think that I was crazy. Glad to know I'm not alone. :)
10/9/13 12:50 PM
Dei said...
The jacket rocks! And you rock for sewing it. You can wear that SO many ways. Well done.
10/9/13 1:05 PM
Pj3g said...
Beautiful jacket! The design of the fabric looks wonderful! Can't believe it cost so little! All the hassle you went through is well worth it! Great review too!
10/9/13 3:11 PM
CraftAddict said...
This is such a great jacket! I love the print on the pattern. I have this pattern in my stash. I really need to tackle it.
10/9/13 3:41 PM
sewbarbie said...
However difficult and confusing it was, the jacket is beautiful!
10/9/13 3:43 PM
Clareew said...
What a wonderful jacket, I love the fabric/style combination. Thank you for such a thorough review.
10/9/13 4:29 PM
treefrog said...
Love your jacket! Just 2-days to make is impressive. Thanks for the detailed review - it is very handy for those of us starting to make tailored jackets and might have assumed a CS pattern would have great instructions.
10/9/13 5:37 PM
marec said...
Wowza...2 days? You have done a marvelous job and have a very cool jacket to enjoy!
10/9/13 5:53 PM
beanchor said...
I love this jacket! I love the fabric choice! I love your review, you are hilarious!
10/9/13 6:13 PM
divabuddha said...
Thanks again girls!!! You all have made my day. And if anyone is giving this pattern a go, I have some step by step photos for assembling the pleat/pocket/front panel. I didn't include them here because it was already pretty long, but I'm happy to post them here or email them if anyone wants 'em!
10/9/13 6:31 PM
Jstarr4250 said...
Truly gorgeous- the fabric, the style, the workmanship; all of it. I would love to own this jacket.
10/9/13 7:27 PM
becca a said...
Gorgeous jacket! You did a lovely job on pattern placement.
10/9/13 7:49 PM
Kendrasewsindetroit said...
mama likey:)
10/9/13 9:19 PM
madbadger said...
I really like it! Nice job!
10/9/13 9:57 PM
threaddy said...
Awesome review! 2 days to make it? You must be kidding...bet you didn't eat or sleep. This is one great looking jacket.
10/9/13 10:21 PM
MaryDB said...
Wow - it looks fabulous. And you just - like whipped it up in two days? And the fabric pattern matches up perfectly? And it fits? And you dealt with 109 steps or so of vague instructions? You're a rock star!
10/9/13 10:36 PM
PattyE said...
Well now, that's just fabulous! Your fabric placement is spot-on. And 2 days!? You're making the rest of us look bad!! LOL. Well done. Now I need this pattern.
10/9/13 11:51 PM
Baja Susana said...
This is a comprehensive, fleshy review, tha pink you for all of this detail. Has hubby come out to say he likes it? It is an interesting pattern and fabric. Job well done.
10/10/13 0:23 AM
Margie T said...
For a mediocre pattern you sure did a good job. Thank you for an entertaining and dare I say brave review. Well done!
10/10/13 3:07 AM
dresscode said...
Only 2 days of sewing? I find that quite remarkable considering all the style in this jacket.
10/10/13 3:28 AM
Wianno Girl said...
Not only was the review excellent, so is the final product, inside and out. I like including the beverage in your pics. ;-)
10/10/13 9:52 AM
carolynw said...
This is the jacket we all would like to make - congratulations on sticking with it and producing a definite over the top result!
10/10/13 10:46 AM
MrsCharisma said...
SWOON! I love this jacket. Every single thing about it.
10/10/13 12:15 PM
Handshake said...
I love this comment, it made me laugh! " My poor husband retreated to his man cave during this process in fear for his life. You know, kind of how you see people slowing backing away from a wild animal on television? Kind of like that." My husband did that very thing today when I was making him a waistcoat. Bravo for carrying on!
10/10/13 3:11 PM
daintydeb said...
Thank you for the honesty here. I suspected that this might be the case with this pattern.
10/10/13 7:12 PM
SewWil said...
Beautiful jacket!!! Love your fabric and you did a wonderful job with the placement.
10/11/13 8:24 PM
Mimsy Borogoves said...
AMAZING jacket and review. I went through the very same experience with a Miyake pattern, though I chose to imbibe tequila and orange juice for my frustration break. Thanks for sharing...oh and the fabric is perfect for such a "stuffy" jacket.
10/11/13 10:35 PM
Pattycrafty said...
Love it! You clearly paid attention to getting the fabric repeats in flattering places. Very well done. I'll echo "grays08" and say, you saw the jewel among the toads with that fabric! Thanks for the detailed review.
10/12/13 6:14 PM
sewgirlygirl-knot! said...
Your review was so engaging..have they come for your machine yet? I love your muslin.
10/14/13 10:18 AM
PattyE said...
Sorry...double post!
10/25/13 9:50 PM
WinterQueen said...
love this :) x
10/31/13 1:17 PM
mlclements said...
Beautiful jacket and a great review!
10/31/13 3:12 PM
petro said...
I love the way you've taken this 'office' jacket to a new dimension with the fun fabric. Thanks for braving the storm and giving us a pattern critique.
11/4/13 3:41 AM
froggiegirl said...
I'm in awe of you pattern matching. What a gorgeous jacket.
11/7/13 8:02 PM
Margaret said...
Great jacket and very helpful review! I'm glad it worked out in the end.
11/8/13 9:02 AM
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