|So after making this coat earlier in the week (click here for that review), I really felt unnaturally driven to do it again - even though I sort of complained about it....a lot. But I had the new pattern drafts and the assembly under my belt, I just pulled out this cotton mid-weight print this morning and went to town. |
Mostly, I think just I desperately wanted this jacket with longer sleeves. As I mentioned in my other review, I just squeezed my first jacket out of the fabric I had. Lengthening the sleeves was just not possible. I stand by everything I wrote previously about the pattern, so I'll be brief here. EXCEPT, I documented the construction of the front panel with the pocket/pleat and thought I would add it here. That will not be brief. That will be wordy and "link-y".
Anyhoo, I love this little guy. My original jacket now as a fraternal twin.
Front view ... buttoned up
Cute pale pink lining
Claire Schaeffer's Custom Couture Collections: Semi-fitted, lined, partially interfaced below waist jacket with princess seams, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads (I didn't use those, my shoulders require no padding), side panels, and 2-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. View A & B are the same jacket. View A used couture construction & View B has more standard, machine-based, construction.
6-10. I made the 10, again.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Mostly, I think the print really changed the whole vibe.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Um, no. See my previous review for more detail. But, in brief, I found them mediocre, at best.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the shape. And after wearing the first version, it's super flatting. It makes for tiny looking waists.
A mid-weight cotton print by Marc Jacobs from Fabric Mart that I got for something like $3 a yard. ROCK ON!! I looooOooOOooOOoooOve it. I don't know why, but I can't get enough of this print.
ASSEMBLY OF THE FRONT PANEL (PLEAT AND POCKET):
Let me begin by saying the first time I made this jacket, this part took me something like 2+ hours to figure out (plus 2 glasses of wine, lots of solid cursing, and a mildly-shell shocked husband). This time - it took just over 5-minutes. Let's do this thing:
1. Here is the original pattern piece. The only marks I used were the "roll line" (the long one in the middle) and the short pleat lines (the two short ones on either side of the roll line on the bottom).
2. I cut my panel and interfaced it, and marked those three lines.
3. Here is the roll line. Right sides together (RST), fold on the roll line and stitch about 1/4' from the folded edge. It should look like this: closed and opened out.
4. RST lay the pleat lines on top of one another, and baste shut. Here I'm pointing to where the pleat is basted shut.
5. Now, RST sew the princess seam. Stop once you reach the flap (there is a dot on the pattern piece. The flap/pocket will still be free, but the top bodice will be closed.
6. Before you sew the pocket pin or baste at the top about 5/8" from the folded edge. I pinned it. Your pocket flaps should now mirror each other perfectly - like this.
7. Just a few more steps....Next you sew the pocket shut. Make sure at the top that you sew just outside the fold so it is encased in the seam (i.e., the top of the pleat. I'm pointing at where I started stitching and then follow my pins around the pocket. You stop when you hit your basted pleats. Backstitch. This is what it will now look like from the right side and the wrong side.
8. Now, this basted pleat - open it. Look-y look-y chocolate cookie - there's the pleat. Give her a good press.
Finally, here the whole shell from the inside before I stitched up the shoulder - Inside with all the bits sewed together
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Now that I have it figured out - sure. It's super cute. And I'm trying to replace all my jackets/coats (except my black leather moto jacket, which is perfect) with ones made by me.
You can call me crazy. It's a little out there. I get that. But I'm totally using the pattern I drafted of my favorite jeans (click here for that review) to make this into a modern (in shape and styling) suit. Squeeeeeeeeeee!! I don't know, in my head those two pieces with a black camisole or crisp white button up ship. Holy macaroni ... heaven to me. We'll see. Making the pants this weekend.
UPDATE: Pants are made. You can see the review & photos over here. SwooooOoOOOoooOoon. I love them!